I went to the same solution as nitro28
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!

 

So are you still running those 200mm drivers as well or did you disconnect them completely?

 

[QUOTE=tscjoki;2408535]I went to the same solution as nitro28
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!


[/QUOTE
Most likely because those speakers are literally only getting a few watts from the factory amp. Are you feed the new subwoofer unit the signal from those subs, if so try the signal out from the 200mm door speakers, you might be surprised.

 

No, I did not disconnect them. I took the drivers from the 200mm door speakers.

 

[QUOTE=Jag Bass;2408731]That's what I did :-)
Because the rear speakers are using two channels, I simply took those from the front doors.

 

I would like to do possibly something as well but would want to keep it minimum. I am shocked how inadequate the Meridian system is in this car. I just bought an old Montero XLS and just replaced the head unit with a touch screen while the rest of the system is stock and it sounds amazing compared to the Jag.

 

I agree 100%
The minimum you can do, is replacing the door speakers with those of the premium Jaguar series, mentioned in this thread.
This will be about 500€ and will already be a great difference.
​​​​​It is done very easily as they are plug n' play

 

Just wanted to add my 2c to the substandard bass problem with the F-type. I had the AAM Equalizer TSB (JTB00537NAS2) applied and if I were kind I'd say it maybe was a little better but not night and day by any means. I wasn't after window shattering bass that makes the whole car vibrate and rattle like you're deaf at a set of lights to impress people but just wanted more thump and some tight punch at lower volumes without distortion. I installed the same subwoofer in the trunk of my RX8 with good results so I thought I'd give it a try in the F-type. Some people have been deterred from putting a sub in the trunk for fear of more rattles.

I read Nitro28's post in detail but didn't want to do all that work making my own bracket to hang a subwoofer behind the seat(s). Hate working in tight spaces. So I installed a MTX 8" powered subwoofer ($160) in the trunk. The unit doesn't take up a lot of space and I took the +12V constant supply from the distribution box in the trunk and ran it along the right side after removing the trim. I also removed a nut from the floor in the trunk, sanded to bare metal to hook a good ground connection. I could not find a 12V switched supply at the fuse box in the trunk so had to run a wire from the fuse box at the passenger (right side) foot well. I tapped into the high (speaker) level outputs that go to the native subwoofer just like Nitro28 described but instead of the middle wires that he used (those are channel 2 for the dual cone "subwoofers" on each side) I used Channel 1. The relevant colors are given in the diagram attached. It probably doesn't really matter if you use Channel 1 or 2.

I did have some rattles coming from the back trim somewhere before the install so I bought a box of Dynamat ($60) to stick onto the metal partition around and behind the original speakers as in the photos. I DID NOT Dynamat the plastic trim pieces, the trunk area or doors. That stuff is expensive so I thought I'd see if it were enough.

The car is transformed by this subwoofer!! The bass is plentiful (you can adjust the low pass frequency (LPF) and gain to your liking) and there' enough tight punch for my liking. I used to have the subwoofer setting to +3 on the infotainment unit with resulting poor bass and distortion from those rear speakers. Now I have the subwoofer set to 0 on the infotainment and adjusted the gain on the new sub to my liking and it sounds awesome. And even better...I don't hear any rattles from the trim or parcel shelf or anything with the limited Dynamat that I placed. I'm super happy with the result for <$250 including a wiring kit, connectors and a few hours of work.

This is the only area I used Dynamat on

I tapped a switched 12V trigger to this fuse box and ran the wire to the trunk under the carpet

Wiring diagram for speakers showing colors for the +/- terminals for L and R Channels 1 & 2. Used Channel 1.

After removing the trim from the trunk I ran the red 8 gauge 12V power wire along the right side. I did not Dynamat anything back here

Here's the final product. Pretty clean I think

Still more than 1/2 of the original trunk space left after the install

 

Good job, now if you switch your signal source the door woofer to feed your mtx unit, your bass output will increase. You are leaving a lot on the table using the sub speakers signal.

In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:

"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."

He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.

 

Appreciate your comments, Jag Bass. You may be correct but having driven my RX8 and F-type to work on different days this week I can tell you that the bass in the Jaguar is as punchy and solid as in the Mazda. In that application I connected the MTX powered subwoofer to the pre-amp line level outputs from the head unit. I believe this is not possible with the F-type. As you say, perhaps the combo sub/amp more than compensates for the lack of voltage with my current setup. I only have the gain up about 1/2 way so still got room to move. If I ever need/want even more I will keep your suggestion to connect to the door woofer in mind.

 

Has anyone else done this upgrade recently?
I'm currently in the process of doing the upgrade but I need to know if the LR047119 & LR033293 or C2D2076 current inventory still has the weaved kevlar speaker cones or has JLR changed the cone material, I appreciate any info.

 

I have a full set of JLR Meridian Signature drivers forsale if interested. 450.00 lightly used or should I say just broken in. Definitely a great affordable upgrade from the Meridian 380W or 770W surround system.

 

pmd you

 

Hi Craig,

I have a 2016 F-Type S and I kept the head unit but replace the rest of the system. I’d be happy to chat with you about the components and work I did if your still interested.

Scott

 

Post was from 7 years ago, I hope he figured it out by now, lol.

 

How would one tap the door woofer signal? In this case, adding an additional sub (or two) in parallel would halve the impedance the factory amp is seeing on the door woofer channel, correct? Or, is an aftermarket amp required to correct for this.

I'm looking to ditch the rear subwoofer signal and feed my new rear subwoofers from the door woofer signal as well. Still learning a lot.. lol.

 

Wiring diagram is in the post above #328 which tell you the correct wire colour to tap into. You have to unwrap the speaker wire harness to get to the right colour.
you are not driving another speaker from the door woofers so you are not halving the impedance. You are just collecting a high level signal and then converting to a low level before passing to your amp of your choice

 

So a 30Hz low-pass crossover point at some unknown slope on the rear subs. That's silly since most music contains very little content below 30Hz. It sure would be nice to confirm that the door woofers don't have a low end filter. Though I guess if you use a DSP capable of taking in all 8 channels it doesn't matter.

 

You can come by and listen to a few Bass Mekanic tracks if you like. I have flat signal all the way down to 25hz from the door channels per the input RTA on my AC D6.1200. Believe me, there is plenty of signal on the door woofers to be able to pull for a subwoofer amp.

 

Thanks. I will be purchasing a 2-channel amp for this purpose. What do you think about using a high-level signal directly into the amp (if it has inputs for both) without converting it to low-level?