F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

F-Type Stereo System Upgrade Planning

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Old Apr 13, 2021 | 08:31 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by pjr300
Hi Cambo.... So, let me make sure I have this right before i start ordering parts with reckless abandon for my 2014 V8 S:
  • a 100mm Ti Dome tweeter and a 100 mm midrange go in each door
  • a 200mm bass unit go behind each seat.
  • IF I want to upgrade to the 770, i would also need the amp and a center dash speaker as well.
The 200mm woofer/midbass also go in the doors. There are a pair of 200mm subs behind the seats that aren't included in this "upgrade". They aren't the same as the 200mm drivers in the doors.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 01:38 PM
  #302  
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Well, I'm embarrassed. I always thought i had the 380W system. Lo and behold, i have a center speaker! I just gained 390 watts without lifting a finger.....

Upgrading to Kevlar seems like a good project though...
 
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 02:32 PM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by pjr300
Well, I'm embarrassed. I always thought i had the 380W system.
AIUI the 380W system is badged "Meridian", whereas the 770W system is badged "Surround".
 
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 04:09 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by pjr300
Well, I'm embarrassed. I always thought i had the 380W system. Lo and behold, i have a center speaker! I just gained 390 watts without lifting a finger.....
Have you never noticed the DSP options for DTS, Meridian, etc in the sound settings menu? Those should only be available with the 770W configuration since they use the center channel (heavily).
 
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Old Apr 16, 2021 | 06:48 AM
  #305  
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Originally Posted by TH3FRB
Have you never noticed the DSP options for DTS, Meridian, etc in the sound settings menu? Those should only be available with the 770W configuration since they use the center channel (heavily).
Yes, i noticed the surround features, but i thought they were features of the 380W as well. To be honest, with also having the XE with similar audio features, i got the two vehicles a bit mixed up.

I still think I'll try to upgrade the tweeters and the midrange drivers. It appears that finding those mids are going to be a project. I see all sorts of the yellow Kevlar units available, but the part number has a different prefix.

 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 04:10 PM
  #306  
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Q: has anyone attempted to use this Kevlar midrange? i believe the part number is 8X88-8X2318808-AB...

 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 05:35 PM
  #307  
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Does your center dash speaker work? Also, what amp do you have Blue Sticker "High 12" which is the Meridian 380 amp or Yellow Sticker "Prem 16" which is the Meridian Surround amp. It will be on the amp itself.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2021 | 08:35 PM
  #308  
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Originally Posted by Jag Bass
Does your center dash speaker work? Also, what amp do you have Blue Sticker "High 12" which is the Meridian 380 amp or Yellow Sticker "Prem 16" which is the Meridian Surround amp. It will be on the amp itself.
Yep, the center speaker works... i previously had it on the Stereo setting, but it works on the Meridian and the DTS mode...
 
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 01:49 PM
  #309  
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Question regarding Meridian 770 12-way system amplifier: does anybody know how much actual useable power (RMS Watts, not peak) does it have for door midbass speakers and woofer speakers installed behind the seats and what is the minimum Ohm acceptance on this channels?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 01:57 PM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by Guardian
Question regarding Meridian 770 12-way system amplifier: does anybody know how much actual useable power (RMS Watts, not peak) does it have for door midbass speakers and woofer speakers installed behind the seats and what is the minimum Ohm acceptance on this channels?
No idea on the rms, but you could get a rough approximation with a known speaker load. If I remember correctly the existing speakers are 2 ohm so I'd use a 2 ohm speaker per channel to avoid damaging the factory amplifier.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 08:13 PM
  #311  
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Pretty minimal rms power - probably 20-30W per channel at best. the 200mm midbass/woofers in the doors are 2oh. The subs are each dual 2ohm being driven by individual channels from the amp.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 08:58 AM
  #312  
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One more Q: how many Dynamat Xtreme mats should I calculate per each door (only inner side)?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 09:13 AM
  #313  
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I got the bulk pack of 9X 18x32 sheets and did a pretty thorough job on all surfaces in each door and still had 2 sheets left over.


 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 01:38 PM
  #314  
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Originally Posted by TH3FRB
Pretty minimal rms power - probably 20-30W per channel at best. the 200mm midbass/woofers in the doors are 2oh. The subs are each dual 2ohm being driven by individual channels from the amp.
Disconnect your door woofers and if you take an AC volt meter, while listening to a 50 Hz test tone at full volume, measure the AC voltage across the terminals. The math is the sqrt of voltage x impedance. So 30 watts would measure 7.74 VAC into a 2 ohm driver. If I remember correctly, that's about what I was seeing at the door woofers.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 07:50 PM
  #315  
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A few questions:
I have a 2018 F-Type with the cheaper meridian system and InControl Touch Pro

1.) should I expect the wiring to the center speaker to already be in place?
2.) is the upgraded amp plug and play? I know I won’t get the extra settings options without extra coding.

im looking to do some sort of upgrade, the audio sounds very compressed/muddy currently. I don’t need a top of the line system, but I feel this is a good start.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 12:00 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by dwilk
A few questions:
I have a 2018 F-Type with the cheaper meridian system and InControl Touch Pro

1.) should I expect the wiring to the center speaker to already be in place?
2.) is the upgraded amp plug and play? I know I won’t get the extra settings options without extra coding.

im looking to do some sort of upgrade, the audio sounds very compressed/muddy currently. I don’t need a top of the line system, but I feel this is a good start.
1. Probably and you might even have a speaker there as well. JLR told me that the dash speaker actually is part of the augmentation system for engine sound, the system is installed in the 2.0 F-Types. I have a Standard Meridian system that has a Meridian Surround Amplifier as well as a non-operational Meridian Surround center dash speaker that JLR has yet been able to explain to me.
2. Changing the amp is not a plug and play process and may not even be possible with the Master Control Unit in your car. Quite frankly you would be way better off ditching the center channel idea and feed the existing amp speaker level outputs into a DSP + Amp or DSP/Amp combo that allows full adjustment including time alignment. Once setup properly you will have a perfect front stage on your dash. Also ditch the rear subs behind the seat, they are utterly worthless but you need to keep the mids behind the head rest as they are feed the tones from the backing and parking systems.

I went the Audiocontrol D-6.1200 route to power the doors and a separate Audiocontrol 1.300 to power a single 10" sub-woofer enclosure in the rear. You can see the build which I am just finishing up here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...osures-244308/
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 12:22 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by Jag Bass
1. Probably and you might even have a speaker there as well. JLR told me that the dash speaker actually is part of the augmentation system for engine sound, the system is installed in the 2.0 F-Types. I have a Standard Meridian system that has a Meridian Surround Amplifier as well as a non-operational Meridian Surround center dash speaker that JLR has yet been able to explain to me.
2. Changing the amp is not a plug and play process and may not even be possible with the Master Control Unit in your car. Quite frankly you would be way better off ditching the center channel idea and feed the existing amp speaker level outputs into a DSP + Amp or DSP/Amp combo that allows full adjustment including time alignment. Once setup properly you will have a perfect front stage on your dash. Also ditch the rear subs behind the seat, they are utterly worthless but you need to keep the mids behind the head rest as they are feed the tones from the backing and parking systems.

I went the Audiocontrol D-6.1200 route to power the doors and a separate Audiocontrol 1.300 to power a single 10" sub-woofer enclosure in the rear. You can see the build which I am just finishing up here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...osures-244308/
Thank you for the detailed reply! I will definitely be looking into this after fixing the door rattles... hopefully Dynamat works!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 12:47 PM
  #318  
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I have the same 380w meridian system in a 2016. My car does not have the wiring or speaker in the centre dash position, and you cant upgrade the amp to the 770w amp.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 12:49 PM
  #319  
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Dynamatting the door video:
 
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 01:36 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by Jag Bass
Disconnect your door woofers and if you take an AC volt meter, while listening to a 50 Hz test tone at full volume, measure the AC voltage across the terminals. The math is the sqrt of voltage x impedance. So 30 watts would measure 7.74 VAC into a 2 ohm driver. If I remember correctly, that's about what I was seeing at the door woofers.
As a followup on this, I just double checked my system and tested the voltage out from the factory 770 amplifier door woofer channel. With center adjustments on bass mid & tweeter and running a 50hz test tone over android bluetooth, AC voltage peaked at 7.30VAC on the multimeter.The test probes were attached about 2 inches from the speaker plug at the amplifier. This equates to 27watts into a 2ohm driver that is used in both the Meridian 380 and Meridian Surround 770 system. That voltage peaked at 45 on the head unit volume on the Intouch Control Pro Head Unit. Bluetooth output from the phone was set two steps down from maximum level.
Dropping in the Meridian Signature drivers, which I am still trying to confirm the impedance on, drops that to 13.5watts if its a 4ohm driver or 6.5watts if its an 8 ohm driver

Like wise wit the mid range channel was tested running a 1000hz test tone over android bluetooth, AC voltage peaked at 1.2VAC at 45 and continued to climb to 3.6VAC at 60 on the head unit. This confirm the wall that the factory system has inplace to protect the sub woofers from damage. This would be the spot where you would bring in the accubass from the audiocontrol to restore that signal if you wanted to set things up using a maximum of 60 as your max head unit volume.

With this information I will be rewiring my speaker level outputs from the factory amplifier to RCA plugs. The audiocontrol D-6.1200 can accept up to 8vac signal on the preamp inputs.

If someone has the chance you may want to check and see if you get the same results.
 
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