Nothing seems to fire up a debate like oil choice, so here goes. I just hit 5K miles, I prefer to change oil the first time well before the recommended interval, just seems that initial oil can be more contaminated than subsequent intervals after break-in. I'm also a believer in synthetic oil after the break-in. I would imagine most folks have their Jaguars serviced at a dealer and don't pay a lot of attention to the oil they use. I live in Texas which rivals Hell for Summer temperatures. For those who do it yourself or at a local shop, What synthetic products do you use that meet the recommendation of (0-20W per the manual) or 5-20W as indicated on the filler cap?

 

Really?

Whichever oil you choose, make sure it meets the Jag spec (not just viscosity) mentioned in the owners manual. Many oils on the market now don't.

 

How do you know if it meets the spec? I tried Googling the spec ("STJLR.51.5122") to see what it was, and came up with nothing.


Mine will be going in soon for the free first service. Was in last month for a new O2 sensor, and some of the standard fixes/updates.

 

I agree, Google is worthless on this one. I also found Jaguar requires solid gold oil filters.

 

Interesting, my local Jag dealer said Castrol 520 was the oil they use, I enquired of Castrol corporate about a synthetic oil meeting the spec. and they replied, "A Castrol engine oil meeting ST JLR.51.5122 is not available.". So, what's one to do?

Just received an answer from Pennzoil (Shell Co.). Same response, they have no product that meets the specification, synthetic or conventional.

 

Agreed! Although today's Jaguar's engines are fairly bulletproof, you don't want to give Jaguar a loophole to renege on a warranty claim due to not using their recommended oil.

 

Very interesting, I sent inquiries to Mobil Oil, Pennzoil, and Castrol, all three replied they have NO product meeting the STJLR.51.5122 specification. However, Castrol, even though they apparently don't know it and I can't find reference to the specification, does sell a product that is named in the manual. It is Castrol Edge Professional 520 in 5W-20 weight. It's available from several sources, even, dare I say it, Walmart!

 

The manual calls for 0W-20...

 

True, although the oil filler cap specifies 5W-20.? I believe the Castrol EDGE also comes in 0W-20, I prefer the higher weight because of the TX heat.

 

There has been an update to the Owners Handbook which may help with 0W-20 vs. 5W-20 confusion.

The 5W-20 oil (WSS-M2C925) is the oil specified for the 3.0L V6. 5W-20 (WSS-M2C925-A) is specified for the 5.0L V8.

The 0W-20 oil (STJR.51.5122) is for climates where the ambient temperature falls below -20 degrees Celsius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit). This oil may be substituted for WSS-M2C925.

 

Thanks NSCOTT, I'll add that info to my almost 1 year old manual.

 

I might just add as a latest update on the oil side (taken from the w/shop manual) for those with 8 cylinders:

 

Interesting - so it's the 0W20 that has to meet their crazy spec. May explain why my dealer didn't use the fancy Castrol Edge Pro when they changed my oil, as they used 5W20.

 

Although I don't believe everything I read on the internet, I stumbled across something SOMEWHERE stating the the 0W20 Castrol Edge Professional OE (which is the ONLY oil meeting the STJRL.51.5122 spec) has a UV dye in it. If this is true not only will it help to find the source of any very small leaks, but it will be VERY easy for JLR to tell if we are using oil that meets the spec.

 

Unless we put UV dye in it haha

 

I'm not the conspiracy theorist type, but it almost sounds like a good strategy to ensure that oil changes get done at a JLR dealer. Even they can't find (or don't use) the "proper" oil, but it would be a bit hard to deny a warranty claim because of wrong spec oil usage.

 

True. After all they have to have proof that what you did caused the failure.

 

I know that's what the Magnussen Moss Warranty Act stipulates, but I think the average owner/amateur mechanic is still at a disadvantage in a warranty dispute. A manufacturer can throw all kinds of engineering data at a judge or arbitrator, making his/her head swim.

Taking a car to a manufacturer-certified service center for all required services shifts the advantage to the customer by providing proof that he/she attempted to follow all service recommendations to the letter, even if that service center uses a non-spec oil or screws something else up.

 

The specified oil is available at at least one dealer in the DC area:




US$10.33/liter

 

If anyone cares:Castrol Pro E 0W-20.pdf