I’m looking into getting a f type for this summer but wanted to know how high mileage jaguar f-types held up? By high mileage I’m asking 70k plus miles and more. The model I’m looking at is a 2016 convertible v6 s model with 40k miles. Also since I would want to daily it for the summer and would be putting close to probably 15k miles in just summer alone.

 

I have 94k miles on mine, generally 7-9k per summer. That includes over 20 900-mile drives (1800 mile round trip, MA to MI.)

My biggest complaint is sticky plastic on the interior, which is manageable. I’ll be putting on the 4th set of tires soon, along with changing transmission fluid.

I replaced the supercharger coupler (a known weakness), and at the same time, had the dealer install the newer plastic cooling pipes (another weakness.) They replaced the water pump at the same time. Otherwise, it’s been consumables (brakes, tires, oil, etc.)

I do have a defective fuel gauge, likely the sender. It was always a bit flakey, but now it doesn’t ever go below 1/2 full. I haven't gotten around to doing anything about it, I use the trip odometer.

If something happened to my car, I’d seriously consider a ‘15 or ‘16 convertible, though I’ve never bought a used car. I love it!

 

89K on my coupe, I purchased it this March and everything works fine so far. It had a small coolant leak which the dealer told me about, but the price was too good to pass on. Turned out to be a small leak from the expansion tank which I replaced myself. Mine has the newer coolant pipes without the seams. No clunks or rattles from the engine bay. I drive it daily to work and back with some jaunts on the weekend. I love it! Read more here for all the tips from the experts and let condition and history determine if the price is justified. Repairs generally won't be cheap.

 

My ‘14 V6S is just about to hit 60k miles. Only thing beyond oil, coolant, and tires has been suspension bushings in the rear and pads/rotors. All wear items. Check bushing state thoroughly-not cheap to replace.

 

In general terms, mileage is not a huge issue. My ‘16 R Coupe with 95,000 miles has been one of my better automobiles, especially compared to the Audi’s and BMW’s I’ve owned. The items I would prefer/avoid include AWD/RWD. AWD might be a little less sporting but is real world preferable in the rain. Also, and this is potentially a big deal, RWD cars have hood vents placed where water gets onto the motor and messes up everything under the SC making the SC harder to remove. And that’s a WHEN not an IF. AWD cars have hood vents set more outboard. Coupe/convertible. I’ve had several ‘verts (TR8’s, 124 Spider, Karman Gaia) and while nice about 25% of the time I prefer a coupe. S or, better yet R trim/not high level trim. Interior wise, the Jag R and S trims are much nicer than the base. Well worth the effort to find high content interior.

 

I just purchased my 2016 convertible last December immediately had it ceramic coated as well as did a few mods to the interior and exterior over the winter months. Now I'm having a blast driving it and so far no issues on the mechanical aspects. The car currently has 45,000 miles.

Made the 5,200 ft. climb up to the top of hurricane ridge in the Olympic mountains near Seattle.

 

My car has almost 60K miles and I've had zero problems with it. Just do the maintenance and get the aluminum coolant system pipes.

 

I just crossed 59k and just had a few things pop up. First is a P0430 catalyst code. Not unheard of, as older gen cars which had the excessive exhaust noises were known to break their cats due to dumping raw fuel into the exhaust for pops and bangs. I wrangled with running catalyst cleaner for a bit, but the code is pretty sticky this time. I'm also have a U0447 gateway module A code, but I am pretty sure it is related to the auxiliary battery which is 10 years old now and definitely due to be replaced. The code will go away if I charge the aux battery, but it does return eventually. I'm pretty sure the battery just aged out and isn't holding charge anymore. Last thing I have is a rotational noise in what I believe is the back left of the car. Probably a wheel bearing. Sounds like a lot of things that have gone wrong, but I am hopeful that they are not catastrophic levels of significant.

 

Yeah there’s little things like that, I’ve had on my Acura ilx two transmission solenoids go bad and replaced which is a lot more scary and than running into a wearable item problem like bushings or suspension cuz they’ll give sign before they go bad versus something like the engine or transmission going bad while driving it. Thank you tho, also you should try it careless if they go bad cuz I’ve seen videos where they can shoot flames out the bad which is neat.

 

113K miles on 2017 F type coupe. Only issues were the coolant pipes which i replaced and a purge valve in Gas tank! Drives and looks better than when i bought it thanks to a velocity tune!

 

My 2017 is a late 2016 build, so 8/9 years old. Consumables like tires, batteries. You can change the oil yourself from topside of the engine. Saves major $$$$. Had the coolant pipes replaced, but with JLR solid plastic, as the metal weren't available as they are now. The supercharger oil CAN be replaced , though JLR says its good for 100,000 miles. I had mine replaced at 30k. Leaving the engine cover off allows water in to the engine area and rusts the injectors, check for that. I changed my vents to a style that does not let in much water and I keep the cover on.. Some of the early cars had issues with the center vent deciding not to go up and down. Microcracking of the headlights is also common. You can't polish them out and they are Big Bucks to replace. Used ones also suffer from the same.
Get the Carfax so you can see how well the car was cared for, or not. I only run 91 no- ethanol gas, as fortunately we have it here in Wisconsin. JLR extended the warranty coverage for the active exhaust valves, as part of the emissions system. Not sure of all the details, someone else here will know. Sticky interior bits can be cleaned with denatured alcohol, but test an inconspicuous area first.
The bodies are aluminum, so not just any body shop is qualified or competent to repair them. If you insure it and use current value, realize that ins Co considers the car totalled if repairs exceed 70 % of value, doesn't take much damage to get to a $20,000 repair on these cars. Go price out the parts and you'll get the idea. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

 

Were the coolant pipes already replaced? I have a 2016 R but they are the old seemed pipes. I think they changed in 17/18.

 

I have to assume they were. There wasn't any mention in the Carfax but it was the first thing I looked for under the bonnet when I bought it.