I have a torn CV boot on the left front. Grease all over the place. I searched and didn't find anything, but was wondering if anyone has a How-To on removing the front axle.

 

This may help you out.

DC

 

Yup, that should help alot. Wonder how important that "half shaft removal tool" is...

 

Just use a brass faced hammer or a soft faced dead blow hammer. Main concern is damaging the threads on the shaft... Also be careful pulling the inner joint from the front diff, never pull by the shaft as you will pull the joint apart. Usually using a pry bar gently between the housing and the joint to pop it out does the trick, though depending on the retaining clip some shafts can be a bear to get to release.

Good Luck!

 

Any chance I could trouble you for the part number for the front left axle on a 2016 R? Looking at the parts websites it really isn't clear... Per the write-up you posted I would have thought G1822215 was it, but that doesn't show up at all...

 

See if this is any help.

https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/v-...le--front-axle

 

Found it cheaper but still WAY overpriced here: https://parts.harperjaguar.com/oem-p...embly-t2r16686 What I don't get is what the extra long shaft is...

 

Passes through the oil pan and connects to the right side CV shaft. Why not get the boot/seal kit if you are worried about $$$?

 

Beating on it with a sledge and it's not freeing up
This tool is on the way, should do what the OEM referenced tool does. Get's here tomorrow:

 

Progress today. The ABN tool was easy to use and pressed the axle out of the hub easily. Dropped the belly pan and a quick tap with a pry bar lossened up the inner joint from the differential. So the axle is now out and cleaned, just need a new boot and grease and I can put it back in. To get the axle out I had to loosen the upper ball joint and the swaybar link connection. It was a tight squeeze through the fork under the shock - I don't think it would fit with the inner boot on (something to keep in mind for when it goes back in).

 

To wrap this up, I took the axle to a garage to have a new boot put on. The Jaguar boot alone was $250 (whole axles on other cars are commonly $100-150!). To get the whole axle rebuilt at another shop (with 2 new boots) was $200. So I went that route. Installation was a bit harder than removal. The boot on the inner joint will not fit through the fork below the shock, so the shock assembly had to come out (4 top bolts and one at the bottom). Not too bad a job, but thought I would mention it for anyone else looking at doing it. The axle went in easily enough. Pressed the inner end in, and tapped it a few times to seat the circlip in the groove. Then lined up the outer end and poked it through. It didn't slide all the way through, but it was enough to get the nut started. Then cranked on the nut until it was torqued to 220 ft-lb (by calibrated guesstimate). The axle nut is 36 mm if anyone is going to do the job. I ordered a new nut but it hasn't come yet, so I will replace the nut when it comes in (supposed to use a new nut and circlip every time it comes out).

Overall I would say a 5/10 on difficulty scale. A new axle is $850, so doing the boot is a job worth doing before destroying the axle. I could not find any used axles on car-part.com either.

 

No guessing necessary. For example, if you weigh 220 lbs, then stand on the wrench one foot from the nut. If you weigh 160 lbs, you'd stand 220/160 (16.5") away and so on.