The only benefit this app has if and when it works is to have the distance between you and the car not being a limiting factor. Otherwise, if you count the number of strokes, you make to make it work for a remote start versus two punches on a fob and if you consider how often the app as mentioned above is not functioning, it is a disaster in my book. Not to mention an annual cost, which others do not charge. Come on JLR join the crowd.

 

Not a disaster in my book, though, I've never had the app fail to connect and I'm almost always out of fob range when I want to remote start, so a few extra strokes to use it is convenient for me. Different strokes for different folks, I guess, and maybe the UK has better cell phone coverage (one benefit of being small!).

 

I've never had an issue with the app connecting either, for both my previous MY18 and my current MY23. If the car sits for more than 4 days (IIRC) the telematics will go to sleep to conserve battery life of the car and you need to do an ignition cycle to 'wake' it up. However, the app will warn you when it's in this mode. I do know (at least on iOS devices) that occasionally if the app shows a different vehicle status than what I know to be true, I either refresh it (by pulling down where it says Pull To Refresh), or for more consistency I actually force-close the app and restart it on the iOS device and it will always reconnect and refresh. You can't always open the app and take action on the remote tab right away. Make sure the "connected just now" appears at the top of the main page before taking any further action.

Subscription-based features--especially remote access--are becoming more and more common, not less, because auto manufacturers (and especially their shareholders) love to see a recurring revenue model on the bottom line. If you buy a car and never give the company any additional money for the 5-10 years you own the vehicle (remember, 100% of service costs are retained by the dealer), that is actually a poor business model on their part. We can all thank the cell companies for truly introducing the monthly subscription model to the masses as the way to run a device platform. They get your monthly service fee for using their network, insurance on your phone, and any non-free apps you've purchased. Additionally, this is more common on luxury cars than on more pedestrian models. At first it seems counter-intuitive: shouldn't a $100K car have all the bells and whistles and the $40K car have to pay extra for the nice-to-have features? However, decades of marketing research show that the $100K car buyer has the disposable income to buy a $100K vehicle, so having a few recurring fees won't break the bank, whereas the $40K buyer has probably bought at the top of their comfortable payment bandwidth and there is no room to purchase further. Hotel chains have done this for years: the budget hotel includes free wifi and breakfast, but the upscale 5-star hotel charges extra for both. That's because marketing says the 5-star buyer may not like it, but they'll begrudgingly pay the additional funds for those extras because they can (and $20 for wifi and $30 for breakfast are a drop in the bucket for the $600/night room, which is probably being expensed anyway), but the budget buyer simply won't tolerate it and they will take their business elsewhere in the future.

That was a long explanation as to why Ford offers free remote start from the fob but JLR requires an annual subscription to have remote start after the trial period (which is actually pretty long).

 

From this well written interesting article https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/remot...-temperatures/
it looks like about 30% of manufacturers have a subscription requirement to use RES and as thunder dump, says they are the European and higher end vehicles.
My dream is that someone will hack my F type fob to offer this or that someone will design a long range RES for it.

 

IME, they're more likely to have bought at the bottom of their uncomfortable payment bandwidth since those car salesmen can always squeeze a bit more out of them!

 

A veritable case study in rationalization. I'll use it in my next psychology presentation.

 

I disagree with that assessment. It is an explanation of why there are more and more subscription-based services. Companies want the predictable revenue stream, especially if it comes with no R&D cost.

 

I think the "oil cooler" may mitigate this, but I'm not sure to what extent. It's an oil/coolant heat exchanger, so if the coolant is hotter than the oil, it will heat up the oil. That will get the oil to temperature faster than an air/oil cooler, but I can't say how much without data.

 

I did some data logging last weekend and found that it took at least 15 minutes for the oil to reach full operating temp. The plot below shows coolant temp (white) and oil temp (red) overlaid, along with RPM. The car had been idling for a few minutes to let coolant temp rise before I started logging. When the log starts and I begin the drive, Coolant Temp is 42C and Oil Temp is 17C (barely above ambient). Coolant temp started to plateau around 90C at 7 minutes into the drive, with oil temp at 46C. Oil temp didn't reach 90C until about 15 minutes into the drive. This was pretty eye-opening to me and served as a reminder that I need to let the car warm up well beyond the coolant gauge reaching the mid-point before really getting after it.

 

Thanks for posting that. It's always nice to see real data. Have you done a similar test on something with an air/oil cooler to see how it compares?

 

I don't have data that I can share, but I have collected data from cars with oil-to-water and oil-to-air cooling systems. As you mentioned above, the oil-to-water systems heat the oil more quickly by transferring heat from the water to the oil during the initial warmup period. Once the engine is at full operating temperatures, the oil temp exceeds the water temp and the oil-to-water heat exchanger serves to reduce oil temps.

 

It's NEVER a good idea to start flogging a cool engine, even with Jaguar's 'thin' recommended oil. (0W-20)

I know of some Toyota engines that suffer cam wiping unless the engine is DRIVEN for 20 minutes. (not just idling)

 

Thanks, that's some really interesting data. That's a new rule of thumb of 15 minutes warm up then.

 

Qualitatively, I figured the coolant/oil system would have to help the oil heat up more quickly but didn't have any quantitative data. Thanks for sharing what you can.

 

My comment wasn't aimed at the collectors of the subscription revenue but at the ones so willing to support the collectors.

 

We all know the F-Type shuts down completely after 4 days of non-use so you can't use the remote app to connect to it, but I've discovered that if you set a wakeup time the car won't wait until 4 days have elapsed - it shuts down much earlier.

 

“Shuts down completely after four days”
Im commenting on that , not the data collected..so not much on topic.
Left my 2016 R for what I expected to be 2-3 weeks from 17 November . Life became involved so didn’t return until 13 April.
Expecting it to be deader than a doornail, when I opened the door, the interior light came on, pressed the go button, the delightfully lobnoxious start took place..
Should have immediately purchased a lottery ticket…
Not all F Types are an electronic disaster.

 

When I was self-isolating my car stood unused for three months and started on the button - which is why they "go to sleep" after 4 days to preserve electrons. I did get the "low battery" message - did you?

 

Had no idea there was a “shut down mode”.
good news….but I think I’ll return to my disconnect the negative regime

 

Shutdown (or "deep sleep") mode won't overcome the need to do the battery disconnect if modules get stuck on, in fact I think they'll keep the car awake (at least until the battery is flat, which I guess is a shutdown of a sort)!