Mine came packed the same way as RPPV6S's, and one of the spring clips on one of the front pads was bent way out of shape but easy enough to bend back to where it should be. This could be a trap for young players (but not for me as I have done the front 380 mm pads a few times now) if they go to fit a pad with a bent spring clip and try to force it in, as they could end up damaging the clip beyond repair. They could even end up with a pad jammed in out of whack which still (just) fits back over the rotor. I didn't take any notice of the cuts.

 

Well the careless packaging is just not reasonable. Forgiveable from the Ebay granny who ships you a coffee mug, but not a retailer.

It would take .10 cents of packing material and minimal care to prevent things from being bent or broken.

Like I said, I don't care about the retail package, but I do care about bent up parts from some lazy or unskilled shipper. This coming from someone with 5000+ 100% Ebay feedback. I always properly ship items.

 

Mine showed up. One pair in factory box the other just loose, bouncing around in an open box with no packing. They don't appear damaged at all though. Just stuffing some newspaper in there would be a nice touch.

 

Hi Guys,

Just to reiterate, I have addressed this with Porterfield and they have assured me they'll be addressing it as well.

 

Just crossed the 400 mile mark on the new Porterfield R4S brake pads I installed a few weeks ago on my V6S.

After bedding them in went out for a few spirited drives. IMHO the pads work as well or better than the factory pads with a much more gradual/controllable initial bite. For me the initial bite with the factory pads was more difficult to modulate. Other than that they seem pretty much the same to me except the dust is only about 5 to 10% as much. The only other thing is I now on occasion notice a short brake squeak when reversing.

The photos below are of my front wheel after 400 miles w/o cleaning. Normally if I went this long w/o cleaning the wheels would be completely black. The dust that is on them now is mostly from the initial bedding - very little additional dust has accumulated since the first 50 miles. The rears, as with the original pads, don't get as much dust as before and after 400 miles they pretty much look like they do after a wash.

 

RGPV6S, your results are just what I was wanting to see.


Does anyone know of a link to instructions for changing the front pads? I've changed plenty of pads in my lifetime, but sometimes there are little idiosyncrasies you need to know about so that things go as smoothly as possible.

 

I think there are instructions around somewhere, but I've done it so many times now I could almost do it blindfolded!
The following instructions are written for a "noob", so please don't be offended if I state the bleeding obvious!
Assuming you have the 380 mm front brakes, standard on the S and R:
1. You will need a 9 mm hex bit to undo the caliper bolts/slide pins, these are not common and rarely come in sets of hex bits, but there are plenty on the Bay of Fleas. Preferably get one with a longish head.
2. Some prefer to remove the whole caliper plus caliper bracket/holder as a single unit, by removing the two 15 mm bracket bolts. However I have found this to be a hassle as it is then very difficult to remove the old pads or fit the new pads, and to push the brake pistons back in, as the caliper holder/bracket gets in the way too much, and you end up having to remove the caliper bolts anyway. Also, those 15 mm bolts are torqued up a lot and can be hard to crack unless you have a 1/2" breaker bar or a big heavy 1/2" ratchet.
3. Assuming you go with the caliper pin removal method, you first need to remove the anti-rattle clip on the outside of the caliper. A gentle lever with a screwdriver and it springs off.
4. The caliper pins are behind a pair of black plastic/rubber dust seals with round caps, on the back of the caliper, pull them off with your fingernails.
5. It can seem that the caliper pins just turn and turn forever without coming out, but when you reach this point they have been fully loosened and you just need to grab them and pull them out.
6. Have a strong piece of wire or similar handy, with a hook at each end, to hang the caliper from and prevent damage to the brake line etc. I use an old fashioned metal coat hanger cut in half with the other end bent to suit.
7. There is no need to remove the brake line from the caliper unless for some reason you want to remove the caliper from the car (eg to do some work on it).
8. On the top of the LHS inner brake pad the pad wear sensor is plugged in, with a very feeble clip/spring arrangement, and this end of the sensor goes brittle with age and heat cycles. Veeeeery carefully pull the sensor out from the pad and you might just retain the little metal clip on the end if you are lucky! But when you go to clip the sensor back into the new pad it is odds on the end of the sensor will break away on the inner edge, this has happened to me all three times I have tried this! Moral of the story - have a brand new wear sensor ready to fit, or else do what I have done and simply zip tie the sensor cable up out of the way in the wheel well. If the sensor has triggered the low pad warning on the dash (ie it's worn through) then there is no use just removing it, you will get error messages, instead either replace it or leave it plugged in and cut and join the two wires up near the plug.
9. Once you have removed the caliper pins the calipers will slide off the rotors. This may take a bit of jiggling and rocking, especially if the rotors are well worn with pronounced lips on the outer edges (in which case maybe it's time to consider new rotors!).
10. Now remove the old pads, a gentle lever with a screwdriver will unseat the spring clips. Take note of the different spring clips on inner and outer pads, the long ones are the inner pad (they fit into the pistons) and the shorter ones are the outer pad.
11. It's now time to examine the new pads to check that all the spring clips are correct and none are bent out of shape, as these clips are fairly fragile and easily bent. Compare the clips on the new pads with those on the old pads and tweak as necessary.
12. Also consider cleaning up the insides of the calipers and brackets to remove the likely build up of brake dust, which can be quite thick in some places. Use brake cleaner fluid.
13. You now need to push the brake pistons (two in each caliper) back all the way in, to make room for the new pads to fit over the rotors. If the old pads are quite worn check the brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir, and if necessary remove enough fluid to drop the level down to the "Minimum" mark, because when you push the brake pistons back in it will force fluid back through the brake lines and up into the reservoir, and you don't want brake fluid spilling out of there! Do this check/fluid removal twice, once for each side of the car. I use a cheap turkey baster. And obviously have some fresh fluid available if afterwards you need to top up the reservoir. Assuming you have Dot 4 fluid in the car then any quality Dot 4 fluid will do.
14. I find the easiest way to push the brake pistons back in is with a fairly sizeable G-clamp. One with a rubber/plastic cover at both ends is best, to avoid scratching the surface of the brake piston. Remember to do both pistons in each caliper.
15. Now fit the new pads into the caliper. The one with the long springs is the inner pad, fit that one first (if you do it the other way around there is very little room to get the second pad in place). Carefully place the springs over the pistons and press fairly hard until the pad "clicks" firmly into place. Then do the same with the other pad, making sure the springs seat nice and firm in the holes in the caliper. You can also apply brake "anti-squeal' grease to the backs and ends of the brake pads before you fit them if you want, but I've never found it to make a difference, at least not on Jag brakes.
16. Now slide the caliper back over the rotor, a bit of jiggling and rocking may be needed.
17. Clean the caliper slide pins and lightly coat them with high-temp brake grease (I use Bendix Ceramic brake grease). Also clean any dirt or muck out of the rubber/plastic sleeve that the caliper pin sits in. Some brake pad kits come with new sleeves and dust caps, most don't. New sleeves can be a bear to fit, they are very tight, but no problem with leaving the old ones in place.
18. Refit and tighten the caliper slide pins. You will probably need to jiggle the caliper around just a little to get them to line up with their holes and get the threads to "bite". No need to do them up super tight, two grunts and a fart is plenty. Refit the round black dust covers, they just push in.
19. Now refit the pad wear sensor on the LHS inner brake pad, if you want.
20. Refit the anti-rattle clips. Believe it or not, this is the hardest part of the whole palaver, it took me four goes before I finally figured out how to do it!
It can (just) be done on your own, but it's much easier with a helper.
Position the two ends/feet of the clip in place, you need to put some tension on the spring before they will sit where they should. Then, while holding those two ends tightly in place (this is where a helper comes in handy!), grab a large flat blade screwdriver, insert it right in the middle of the edge of the "spring" where it is slightly overlapping the caliper bracket, and lever the clip "in and down". You need to lever fairly hard, and be careful that neither of the "feet" pop out.

 

Would the instructions be the same for the rears ? Thanks

 

OzXFR, thanks for all the detailed instructions. Do you have an approximate measurement by what you mean by "longish" head on the 9mm hex bit? Do you think this would suffice?
Or do I need to go with something longer?

 

I'm sure there are instructions for the rear brake pads around here somewhere, but I just searched for 15 minutes and couldn't find them!
There are a lot of differences between the front brakes and the rear brakes.
This thread gives some pointers, especially the EPB service mode procedure: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...hassle-169961/
Other than that, the differences between the front and rear pad replacement procedures are:
If you can't get the EPB service mode procedure to work then I *think* you can get away with simply pushing the brake pistons back in, eg with a G-clamp.
The caliper pins/bolts are not hex, they are ordinary bolts, 12 or 13 mm head IIRC. They are in plain sight, not hidden by black plugs.
There are no anti-rattle clips to worry about, instead they are built into the ends of the brake pads.
The pads don't have spring mounting clips on them, and there is no difference between the inner and outer pads.
All up it's a pretty simply job, the only potential hassle is getting the brake pistons pushed back in.

Edit - I forgot to add, there may be some hassle with the brake pad wear sensor (on the RHS inner pad), but I don't know how they are fitted on the F-Type rear brakes as the first time I changed the brake pads I had them done by a shop, he "broke" the sensor and I didn't see how it was meant to fitted, and we simply tied the cable up in the wheel well. I left it that way with the new 376 mm rear brakes.

 

Bret,
That one looks to be long enough, about the same length as the one I have, so it should work OK.

 

I successfully installed the new front brake pads today. OzXFR, thank you very much. I literally couldn't have done it without your instructions. It was not a difficult job, but I wouldn't have been able to figure out a few of the particulars without your insight. Next time I'm in Adelaide, I'll buy you a beer. Since that's really not likely to happen, the offer also stands if you make it to Atlanta.

Fortunately, I was able to get the brake sensor off and back on successfully without damaging it.

I initially had a hard time visualizing steps (3) and (20), but figured it out. Here's a picture to illustrate:

I really don't see how it would be possible to reinstall the anti rattle clip without a helper, so my son managed to make himself useful (he also cleaned the wheels while they were off).

I took my F-Type for a drive and the brakes felt great.

 

Thanks Bret!
It's on my bucket list to visit the States again one day (I was there in 1988) so I might just take you up on that offer of a beer.
Also, thanks for the pic of that pesky anti-rattle clip, I was too lazy to take any pics when I did the job.
Two further tips about that anti-rattle clip for "young players" doing this job for the first time:
1. The "feet" (ends) each have a small metal clip on the end, which is easy to dislodge if you try to force the foot in. Those clips are easy enough to push back into place and then squeeze tight with pliers. If you don't reposition these clips properly the anti-rattle clip won't work as it should.
2. On the edge of the caliper holder you can see two small bright metal clips or shims. These fall out very easily but are also really easy to put back in place, if you can find it/them! It's all too easy to finally get the anti-rattle clip back in place and then to discover that one or both of those little shims have gone missing in the process, and then spend several minutes trying to find the little sucker(s). On one occasion I never did find them so I ran without them and I didn't notice any problems.

 

Can anyone else confirm that the sensitivity as you come to a stop is better with these pads when compared to stock?

Stock is too touchy and almost impossible to modulate as you come to a stop, without a head-bob.

You look like you're on your first day driving unless you really concentrate...

 

Yes, they are much better than the stock pads in stop/go traffic.
Much smoother and more progressive, no longer like an "on/off" switch, and almost no "graunch" just as you come to a stop (still a little graunch, but waaaay less than before).

 

I consider the head bob part of the "Jaguar Experience."

 

Links to change the pads. I added these and I think someone has made these into a single pdf and posted somewhere.

Front PAds
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2016-a-187801/

Rear Pads
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...16-how-188946/

 

Installed the Porterfield RS-4's last week, and they are just what I had hoped, brake feel is almost identical, but the brake dust is dramatically lessened - I mean like 80% less.

One caveat, this install was on my sc e90 M3, but I'm impressed enough that I will order a set for the F-Type next week.

FWIW, I did not do the typical bedding procedure with these. I was told by a vendor of these that the only problems they have had with these is folks overheating them during an overzealous bedding procedure (which can irreversibly damage them), and they recommended I just install them and drive normal (non-hooligan style) and I must say it seems to have worked perfectly.

 

Now that I've had mine on for a couple of weeks, I can confirm everything Chawumba said regarding the amount of dust and bedding procedure. I have not heard squeak one out of the brakes.

 

As these are pretty much the only pads available, would you guys recommend them over the stock pads for a track-day, or is their performance roughly the same? I'm aware of the reduction in dust but that's not a big concern.