Following as well. Will consider a few discussed options as I drive my car more. I definitely don't plan to reinstall the fuse at this point.

Good info.

 

Yeah, once you experience the car with open valves it’s really hard to go back. I drove it without the valves open recently. Wow, night and day experience. People who have never tried it don’t know what they’re missing, but to each their own I guess. Now there is a safer more legit way to do it I guess if they’re interested.

I am still completely confused about how the “burning out solenoid” bit plays in. I don’t feel they made the case on that with the sample size we’re talking about, or the limited “explanation” they’ve offered up to this point. Could be coincidental as far as I’m concerned, unless they have more clarity they’re willing/able to offer.

The part that seems to be pretty darn clear, however, is that having fuse 15 out most definitely prevents the ECU from being even willing to consider attempting a regeneration. To be clear, both Quicksilver and ASR essentially told me the same thing: Each product in its design fully recognizes that if it does not fool the ECU into thinking it has back valve control (even though it doesn’t) then a regeneration will never be attempted. Simple as that. They had me at hello once they both concurred with Viezu Tuning on that most important point. I have no idea what the specific details are there. All I know is that both products are simulating whatever is involved there and making the ECU happy enough to proceed with a regeneration cycle, despite it not having the back valve control it thinks it has.

THIS IS ANOTHER POINT I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT SOME MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN —>

As I’ve talked about numerous times at different stages of the thread, the ECU needs to think it has control of the valves before it will attempt the regen, but this is NOT actually needed for any initiated cycle to successfully complete. It is optimal for that control to be there, but other sensors can compensate and regulate the burn cycle as long as it is at least initiated.

With this said, the following is info I got from a company called CARGRAPHIC who essentially seems to be reselling ASR products under their own name:

They confirmed for the F-type that the pressure differential sensors can regulate the burn cycle as long as the ECU is fooled into starting the cycle (This was first told to me by Quicksilver, and also talked about by ASR in our chats). Interestingly enough, they ALSO told me that with some BMWs the exhaust does not get hot enough like the F-type, and there can be some problems coming in here and there where the ECU not having true back valve control becomes problematic…Resulting in failures to complete the cycle, and in some cases dash error messages and/or codes being produced. To their knowledge this was not a problem for the F-type.

Even if this could be an issue with the F-type it would be entirely manageable if it was infrequent, if you have the scan tool to consciously manually run a regen with your valves not being controlled at all by the ASR should should such a failure be experienced, etc…

Anyway, I thought that bit of info was kinda interesting…

Cheers

 

Regarding incomplete regenerations, this was a big problem with the DPF on my old XFS and a very common problem across all Jag 3.0 diesel engines especially where most trips were fairly short.
If you didn't let the regeneration fully complete the DPF would eventually clog up, and I suspect it will be the same with the GPF/OPF/PPF although probably not as quickly as on diesel cars.
It was easy to tell if/when an auto regen cycle had commenced on the XFS - the performance dropped away noticeably, the engine note changed (became a little gruffer) and the fuel economy worsened by a yuge amount. Then, when I parked the car in my garage, the whole exhaust system was smoking hot and gave off a loud ticking noise as it cooled down.
The moral of the story is that once you detect that an auto regen has commenced don't stop the car, keep driving even if it means going out of your way for a while, until the regen signals stop.
I suspect a regen on a petrol F-Type would give off the same signals and the easiest one to check is the instant fuel economy read-out (scroll through the read-outs with the chrome button on the end of the indicator stalk), the decrease in fuel economy really is yuge, on my XFS it used to go from normal of around 6 litres / 100 km (47 mpg) to around 10 litres / 100 km (28 mpg). Of course you won't have or get anywhere near this fuel economy in a petrol V8 F-Type but you should still see an almost 50% reduction in fuel economy.

 

Reading this makes part of me want to go for the remove GPF option ;-o These filters are butt pain.

 

With the GPF being part of the cats, a good way to solve this is to install a set of aftermarket downpipes with high-flow converters

 

Depends on where you live and whether or not you care about breaking the law I suppose.

 

Would a set of cutouts (zoomies as they're often called) effect the same result? I've been considering having a local speed shop install cutouts on mine just to **** off the neighbors and the beta males in their EVs and Priuses.

 

This issue is only for GPF/OPF type cars correct? If you don't have one of those filters your home free apart from a code without CEL?

 

Yeah man, this whole discussion is about how pulling fuse 15 on newer cars WITH a GPF is problematic. You should be golden if you don't have an GPF. Well, unless there is some mystery solenoid that can burn out relating to pulling the fuse for your car ;-) That part we have no real clarity on, but we do know that on our newer cars the ECU's ability to initiate regenerations on the filter is affected when we pull fuse 15.

 

What about putting the fuse back and then:

1) disable the flappers by simply cutting the wires

OR

2) disable the flaps mechanically by disassembling the mechanism

Seems simple enough.......

Am I on the wrong track here?

 

#1 is definitely a no go because the ECU needs to be talking to something, even if it’s something fooling it into thinking it has control of the back valves when it actually does not (i.e.: Like the Quicksilver and ASR valve control products I describe above). Removing fuse 15 or disconnecting/cutting the wires both will not provide these conditions. As a result, the ECU will never proceed with attempting a GPF regeneration.

#2, If I’m understanding you, this would work so long as you don’t care about retaining the ability to go between closed and open valve states. If you literally want them open all the time then I suppose if you modified the mechanism such that the flaps themselves are removed, but the actuator remains there and connected and turning the flap holder or whatever then to me that should work just fine. For me I still want to retain quiet mode, even though I mostly will be in loud mode ;-o

 

I just ordered the ASR-module 🤞🏻☺️

 

i was referring to the wires located AT the valves

 

So am I. If you completely cut the connectivity between the car and the actuator, be it through disconnecting/cutting the wire or fuse 15 removal, then the ECU will not be happy…The result is that it will refuse to ever even attempt initiating a GPF regeneration cycle.

 

I will do the same as soon as my vacation is over and I’m sure that I will be home to receive it ;-o

Let us know how it goes for ya

Cheers

 

Ordered mine from Velocity today, and also received my ASR module yesterday.

 

Part of me is definitely tempted, not gonna lie…lol

Hopefully you like the sound and don’t find them too obnoxious. Some seem to love them and others find them to be too much.

 

Keeping the factory back box and went with the resonated, so hopefully all good there. In my experience with other modern European cars (RS3, RS6), high--flow cats haven't impacted sound TOO much, but have been big when going to higher-output setups. The RS6 had over 800 HP when I sold it, but the dash rattled like a decade-old Kia even after I had it, one of my techs had it out, and the dealer had it out. I couldn't handle it given the price.

I'm prepping to go with the new supercharger kit Velocity has on market, so only pulled the trigger on the cats due to the increased flow they'll provide on the exhaust side, plus my general disdain for DPF/GPF/OPF setups on exhausts. The diesel versions have been real headache-makers on some of my company's newer trucks.

 

Regardless, at least you won’t need to worry about this GPF nonsense anymore. I’m probably going to purchase the Velocity AP back box. I’ve heard it makes a noticeable difference without being too over the top.

 

May yet go with an aftermarket back section, but want to see what the ASR module and cats sound like. Honestly, my biggest holdup is I like the appearance of the factory tips and don't feel like going through the headache of cutting them off, potentially having to swell the pipe to fit them to an aftermarket box, etc. (all this is based on assumptions of what is required, not actual knowledge, I haven't actually taken time to look)