I did put some xpel on the rear lower rocker panel after I noticed some rock chips. I am at close to 12K miles. The rear fender, door and rear bumper are getting pretty bad. By the time I reach 100K this car will need some paint. Just washed the car.

 

Rock chips are almost unavoidable when you have a sports car with sticky tires unless you put some sort of protective film on your car. They will grab everything on the road and throw it at your car. Luckily my Jag hasn't suffered this fait yet but my Vette has terrible road rash from the sticky tires slinging rocks.

 

funnily enough when i had the dealer's loaner i did notice i could hear alot of stones being flicked up on normal sealed streets

i thought maybe because it was raining, as that tends to wash alot of loose stones from the shoulder onto the road, but maybe it's the design of the guards or way wheels sit inside the fender

first thing i do on all my cars is clear bra the skirts at a minimum

 

I am just enjoying the noises that car makes and knowing that even though aluminium rusts - the process is different than iron. I did not put a film on. Mine is black with 6,500km or so on the clock. I don't really look for rock chips. I haven't noticed any on my walkabout the car.

I did have Opti-coat Pro applied. It's a ceramic polish and protects the car against bird-poo and dead insect guts etc. I am about to have the car detailed and will ask the detailer about road rash and what he sees.

 

Aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion.
Aluminum, as you suggest, is very prone to corrosion. However, aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, a very hard material that actually protects the aluminum from further corrosion. Aluminum oxide corrosion also looks a lot more like aluminum (dull gray to powdery white in color), so it isn't as easy to notice as rusted steel.

 

I was prepared for paint protection on the entire front, however you should not have to paint protect the entire side of the car. I feel as though this was not thought out very well by Jaguar. If you look closely at the rock chips behind the plastic splash guard it is not doing its job very well either. I even have rock chips on the door!!
I read about similar issues with the C7 Vette but our experiences are not well known. Had I known, this would have been addressed on day one. As mentioned this is a result of the "sticky" tires. Had Jaguar done the testing necessary, the body design could have been altered behind the wheels slightly to account for this.

 

F-Type body is beautiful. I'll live with some chips. I treated mine to an X-Pel wrap.

 

Having only 2,500 miles on my 15 R, i luckily don't have any rock chips yet. I am tacking the car to have Xpel installed on Monday and the guy recommended covering these areas:

- all painted areas of the bumper, entire hood, front fenders (small area behind rear tire) rocker panels (includes full rockers and behind rear wheels). To cover those areas with material and labor would be a cost of $1550. He mentioned 8 mm film.

- As for the window tint, they would suggest a carbon hybrid or full ceramic film. The cost for each is relatively close from $300-400 respectively

What do you guys think about the price and the covered areas?

 

I paid more for slightly less coverage on the xpel. (just make sure it's the ultimate) I would also recommend doing the mirrors.

I have a 30% ceramic tint on my coupe and I paid $299.99

 

Good point on the mirrors. I have the polaris white with the black pack and the black rims and i was thinking to wrap the mirrors in black.

Does the dirt accumulate around the edges of the film? Do you see a difference in color between covered and uncovered areas?


Thank you.

 

I'm getting XPEL Ultimate installed on Monday.

I was quoted $1500 for full hood, front bumper & mirrors

 

ALL of my edges are wrapped, and I have no seams. (The entire hood was done in one piece.)

I cannot see the difference between the wrapped and unwrapped portions of the car. (Italian Racing Red, if it matters...)