I have a '16 S V6 with original rotors. Anybody know the lug nut torque specs?

 

It is listed in your owner's manual...but I think it is 92 ft/lbs.

 

Gregory is correct.

 

Thank you

 

Or else you can used my preferred spec of two grunts and a fart!
Also the tyre shop grease monkey with his pneumatic gun - "hey Joe, on this here Jagwaaar, is that three ugga-duggas or four?"

 

I could also just check to see what my torque wrench is set to - have never used it for anything else!

 

Same here!
Here in the civilised world we use Newton metres (Nm) to measure torque, and for the Jag lug nuts the correct spec is 125 Nm.
I have a nice big boofy 1/2" electronic torque wrench but two years after I bought it (I only bought it coz it was a nifty looking bit of kit and it was going at less than half price) I had still never used it so one day I decided to dig it out, fire it up and check the torque on the 5 lugs on one wheel that I had torqued up the day before using my trusty 1/2" breaker bar, 19 mm plastic sleeved socket and my tried and true two grunts and a fart method.
Lo and behold 4 of the 5 nuts registered smack on 125 Nm and the 5th one registered 123 Nm and tightened another 1/4 turn to 125 Nm.
Over the years I have worked out why my trusty method works so well on the Jag lug nuts - it's coz they are mag seat design as opposed to the more common acorn design, and just as they get to the correct torque they let out a little creak or squeak which acorn nuts don't do.

 

92 lbs-ft is correct. And definitely use a torque wrench!
I broke off a stud on my F-Type hand-torquing using a 12" bar... shocked me. I did grease the studs (which I don't do anymore), and I didn't use a torque wrench (which I DO always now), but damn.
... and if you do break a stud Jag won't sell you a replacement stud.. they will sell you the whole damn hub, which is ~$550 US (plus installation)
I was lucky and my shop took it apart and was able to replace the broken stud without Jaguar's help... $18 + install

 

I never used a lubricant, but have always used anti-sieze. It is still metal to metal (zinc) and prevents the fasteners from corroding together. Particularly useful on hub faces and hub-centrics to keep the wheel from freezing to the hub.

 

When tightening the lug nuts, don't be tempted to tighten each one right up to 92 lbs-ft. Tighten them all progressively, say 40 lbs-ft each, then again up to 92 lbs-ft.

 

better yet, get them all snug before you start the stepped torquing.

 

Yep, I've done it that way for 45 years.
First go "one grunt" (before dropping to the ground).
Second go "two grunts" (when on the ground).
Final go "two grunts and a fart".
Always in a star pattern.

 

I thought it was "tighten it until it snaps, then back it off half a turn".

 

Darn! I only back off ONE FLAT when that happens! I've been doing it wrong. (But I HAVE been practicing to use the fart method. HehHeh.)


++++++++++++++

On a serious note:

I thought this was bad practice. I have released (or backed-off) my torque wrenches for years, supposedly to maintain their accuracy?

https://www.norbar.com/en-gb/News-Ev...-torque-wrench

 

That's an excellent point. I hadn't heard that before, but it makes perfect sense. This is the only reason I bought my torque wrench.