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@Blacks18 - I'm attempting to update the software. Device isn't recognising my USB drive, read that it is picky about the device (but I'm not about to buy there USB drive). What capacity is yours and did you format it on a PC or MAC? Cheers.
For anyone that might be interested I went with this solution in my MY18 to connect the AUX to USB & for the USB for wired Android Auto.
Last edited by LockNumber25; Dec 20, 2022 at 04:50 AM.
@Blacks18 - I'm attempting to update the software. Device isn't recognising my USB drive, read that it is picky about the device (but I'm not about to buy there USB drive). What capacity is yours and did you format it on a PC or MAC? Cheers.
For anyone that might be interested I went with this solution in my MY18 to connect the AUX to USB & for the USB for wired Android Auto.
man sorry to hear that, I picked up a $5 nxt 16g usb drive from a local staples, and had no issues with it recognizing it. (Formatted on PC windows 10)
Thanks buddy, Got it recognised and firmware updated. Still seeing occasional blank screens though. Very frustrating. When you get a blank screen does it affect the factory screens too? On mine I get neither factory or IDCORE screen sometimes. Oh, happy new year to you too.
I had an unused UAD adapter for a 2018 for sale for quite some time. I bought it and didn’t like having to mount an external microphone.
I put it on eBay a few times and finally got tired of it taking up space so listed it no reserve. It went for $10. I shipped it to someone in MD this morning.
I hope someone on here got a smoking deal on it at least.
Thanks buddy, Got it recognised and firmware updated. Still seeing occasional blank screens though. Very frustrating. When you get a blank screen does it affect the factory screens too? On mine I get neither factory or IDCORE screen sometimes. Oh, happy new year to you too.
Happy New Year as well! When I get the blank screen, it affects both Idcore and Factory, both requiring a reboot. I have not heard back from UAD, plan on sending a follow up email after the holiday. Not sure if they can just send me the previous version….
If you idcore unit is at fault it will only effect that screen and none of the Jaguar screens. I suspect your issue if a loose connection some where so try reseating every connector again concentrating on the one to the display first.
If you idcore unit is at fault it will only affect that screen and none of the Jaguar screens. I suspect your issue if a loose connection some where so try reseating every connector again concentrating on the one to the display first.
Did that already, and this issue only began after I installed the update.
Just a quick update…UAD just sent me the previous version to re-install in my unit to see if that prevents the black screen, since I never had it prior the update. Will install and give it a few days and report back.
Reviving a really old thread... I'm about to install the UAD kit in my MY18 with the IMC system, looking exactly like in woohoo's initial post in this thread.
UAD only provide instructions for the installation in a vert which requires stripping out a lot of stuff in the back but don't show how to access the head unit in a coupé where you're supposed to be able to do it by just removing the cover between the seats. I can't see how to access the head unit power cable and remember seeing Blacks18 mentioning that it was tricky. How did you guys access the head unit to connect to power cable? Did you remove this black box and then somehow access the head unit, or did you have to remove more parts like in the vert?
I ended up removing the trim behind the passenger seat with the speaker grill (pull it toward you); and in order to do that you have to loosen the long rear trim piece that goes along the top (push it toward the front of the car from inside the luggage area). It's easy enough to remove both pieces but be careful because the trim clips can be loose and might fall into the body work. It's a bit awkward working behind the seat too (move it as far forward and high as possible). It might be possible to make the connection without removing that trim but I found it far too tight for my big clumsy hands. Once the speaker grill trim is removed there is loads of access and it is connected in minutes.
I ended up removing the trim behind the passenger seat with the speaker grill (pull it toward you); and in order to do that you have to loosen the long rear trim piece that goes along the top (push it toward the front of the car from inside the luggage area). It's easy enough to remove both pieces but be careful because the trim clips can be loose and might fall into the body work. It's a bit awkward working behind the seat too (move it as far forward and high as possible). It might be possible to make the connection without removing that trim but I found it far too tight for my big clumsy hands. Once the speaker grill trim is removed there is loads of access and it is connected in minutes.
Good Luck.
Brilliant, much appreciated! So if I understand you right you:
1. Loosened (lifted?) the big plastic trim cover in the picture below
2. Removed the speaker grill on the passenger side (left hand side, since yours is a RHD car I presume)
3. Then you could pull away (or remove entirely?) the carpet trim behind the seat enough to be able to access the power connector of the head unit but didn't need to unscrew the head unit itself
Right?
Last edited by MajorTom; May 22, 2024 at 07:00 AM.
1. Loosened (lifted?) the big plastic trim cover in the picture below
Yes. Loosen = push it toward the front of the car from the luggage area (boot), it goes forward NOT UP (although not 100% necessary but it makes replacing the speaker grill MUCH easier because the grill tucks underneath)
2. Removed the speaker grill on the passenger side (left hand side, since yours is a RHD car I presume)
Correct
3. Then could pull away (or remove entirely?) the carpet trim behind the seat enough to be able to access to power connector of the head unit but didn't need to unscrew the head unit itself
I was able to make enough room by pulling the carpet away. Head unit stayed in place, no need to unscrew or remove.
Last edited by LockNumber25; May 21, 2024 at 04:46 PM.
1. Loosened (lifted?) the big plastic trim cover in the picture below
Yes. Loosen = push it toward the front of the car from the luggage area (boot), it goes forward NOT UP (although not 100% necessary but it makes replacing the speaker grill MUCH easier because the grill tucks underneath)
2. Removed the speaker grill on the passenger side (left hand side, since yours is a RHD car I presume)
Correct
3. Then could pull away (or remove entirely?) the carpet trim behind the seat enough to be able to access to power connector of the head unit but didn't need to unscrew the head unit itself
I was able to make enough room by pulling the carpet away. Head unit stayed in place, no need to unscrew or remove.
Great, that's very helpful information that I haven't seen anywhere else. I'll hopefully be able to finalise the installation tomorrow thanks to this.
Any other tips on the setup? Where did you place the microphone? I'm thinking of putting it right in the centre cubby lid opening like some other user here did.
And how often do you need to use the USB in connection? I guess only for the initial setup of the phone and then for occasional UAD software updates, so I think I'll just tuck that USB female connector under the plastic centre console trim in the footwell so it can be pulled out if needed, instead of adding an extension all the way to the cubby like some seem to have done.
I did the same with microphone but the quality wasn't too good if I remember (i dont have this car anymore, have a car with the 10' display). I just tucked the USB away, didn't make it accessible because figured it wouldn't be used very often. Cant think of anything else really, just take your time, it wasn't too bad to install.