My 2016 F-Type has an oil leak from the right upper timing cover. Not a huge leak, but oil drips down onto the alternator, which a few people reported here.
Does the job of re-sealing upper timing cover requires removing the valve cover? From what I see, it's possible to remove it without removing the whole valve cover, just undo 3 valve cover bolts. I understand there is a concern with disturbing valve cover gasket, but not sure how much of an issue that is. Have anyone done it this way? Thank you in advance!

 

What I recall is that it is not possible (in a sensible way). The valve cover goes over the chain cover.
The valve cover gasket can be reused, I won’t worry about that. Perhaps the worries are about the removal of the injectors, but just lifting it might solve it. It is a big job anyway.

 

Thanks for your input!
Yes, it's a big job and I'm looking for an easier way, without removing SC and valve covers. The valve cover's edge is definitely sits on top of the timing cover edge, but I don't see it overlapping. Like, there is no "lip" that goes onto the timing cover. The images from the workshop manual I posted above (that's from ELECTRIC OIL PUMP, REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION), show that the timing cover needs to be pried out with valve cover still on. Two caveats there, I don't know if it makes any difference though: 1/ if I'm not mistaken that procedure described in the manual is "engine out", and 2/ that's the left side.

 

I had the same leak. My mechanic did not remove the valve cover.

 

Thanks for confirming!

This engine teardown video helped to understanding how valve cover and timing cover are mated together . I feel like it may be difficult but possible. Timing cover sits on two dowels and requires some prying out regardless. Wedged in by the valve cover - makes it more difficult. I'll planning to give it a try in a couple of weeks.

 

@Bidfoil Please post your experience doing this repair - looks vexing!

 

Popped right off! I'll do a more detail write up after I put it back together and ensure the leak is fixed.

 

Just be sure it's very clean when re-installing with sealant, and make sure there's a decent drop of sealant on the corners where it meets the valve cover and cylinder head, and you should be fine. Dealership techs reseal those all the time without removing the valve covers.

 

Ok, the car is back together, I had a couple of long drives since then, and checked the timing cover with a scope camera - seem to be holding up! Here is a brief write up, hope it will help someone, at least to gauge the amount of work needed. If you do this job, please read corresponding sections of the workshop manual.
Note that I was fixing the right side. Left side is different in terms of components you might need to remove, but I think it should be easier (no hight pressure fuel lines to mess with)

1. Depressurize the fuel lines: pull the fuel pump fuse. Mine was 30A green F19 fuse in the left A-pillar fuse box, check your manual. Remove the fuel cap. Start the engine end let it run until it stalls, no throttle. Start again. We're looking for ~5s cranking without start.
2. Disconnect negative terminal on the battery (make sure not to close the trunk, put a glove or towel on the lock hinge to prevent that).
3. Remove the hood/bonnet. I don't know how people do this without removing the hood, I was even thinking about removing the bumper.
4. Drain coolant from the radiator. The plug is on the left side, in the radiator, large plastic "cross" slot. Unscrew it and then pull the rest of the way out with the pliers. I got 5-6 liters out. No need to remove the undertrays, there is a convenient cut out so you can access the plug. Replacement plug is Dorman 61138, found for $6 in my local parts store.
5. Start clearing access to the upper timing cover (I was doing the right side). Remove air intake pipes (clean your throttle body while there), disconnect coolant hoses: thin long breather one going back to the reservoir, two plastic pipes going to the intercooler, and a large rubber hose. I disconnected them and tied off out of the way. Pull out the foam cover: counter-intuitively you need to pull it back (towards the windshield) and up. Disconnect all electrical connections to the VVT components mounted on the timing cover.
6. Get both belts out of the way. I got them off the top pulleys and out of the way, didn't remove fully. Remove the SC belt pulley that is mounted into the timing cover. Good idea to check all pulleys with the belts off.
7. Get the high pressure fuel lines out of the way. We have to do this to remove one of the valve cover bolts, the one with a stud that the fuel lines "bracket" holds on to. Make sure the area is clean, you don't want any debris getting in there. Undo 17mm unions (I had to remove one ignition coil to get to one of them). There shouldn't be any pressure, but some fuel will still escape, be careful. Now, you need to gently pry the fuel lines "intersection" bracket thing from between the stud and the fuel rail going to the injector. This is by far the sketchiest part of the whole job, as I imagine one can damage the ends of the lines. If you get stuck, you can try to start undoing that valve cover bolt with a wrench, lifting one side of the bracket up. I don't see any easy way to do this, maybe undoing all the fuel line blots down to the high pressure pumps? I was also contemplating cutting the stud off, and replacing it with a new studded bolt when putting it back together.
8. With fuel lines bracket off the stud, you can remove 3 valve cover bolts, and 5 timing cover T30 bolts. Clean the area before removing the cover. You can leave the components mounted in the valve cover in for now, but I do recommend removing it before re-installation, as it will make things easier. I removed them and replaced all 4 o-rings.
9. Pry the timing cover off. I thought this will be difficult, but there are two tabs in the cover just for prying. You probably don't want to pry anywhere else, or wedge anything in! Remember that there are two studs it's sitting on, left and right, so you want to pry a little from each side.
10. Clean the mating surfaces really well, you should see shiny machined aluminum surface throughout. The manual explicitly prohibits anything abrasive. I used plastic razor blade and degreaser spray on a rag, with a shop vacuum to collect debris.
11. Do a few dry fits. Between the two dowels and the valve cover top, it's a tight fit. When dry fitting, make sure it's all the way in (bolt holes align).
12. Put continuous bead of RTV on the timing cover as per the manual, I aimed for ~3mm. I used grey Loctite 5699. Put it on and and tighten the bolts in cross pattern within 7 min (or per your RTV instructions). I did let it fully cure 24 hours before starting the engine.
13. Put everything back in reverse! I used a vacuum filler tool to fill the coolant system, makes it a breeze. Didn't find any special procedure for priming the fuel lines, I just turn ignition on and off a few times, before cranking it. Check for any leaks (coolant, fuel).

 

Fantastic write-up and photos - thank you @Bidfoil for sharing with everyone who may have to deal with this in the future!

 

Warning - don't get your sides mixed up!
To quote from Bidfoil's latest post: "Note that I was fixing the right side."
Yes, right side when looking at the engine from the front of the car, but the convention when talking about engine "sides" is from the rear of the engine eg when sitting in the car, so it's really the left side that Bidfoil has been working on.
Other than that little glitch it's a great write-up.

 

Thanks for the feedback! I was working on the right side (passenger side in the US). I'm guessing you looked at the pictures from the manual attached to the first post - those are left side, yes, sorry for the confusion.

 

Followed Bidfoils instructions per his notes and photos, all went well until I attempted to pry the cover off. Unfortunately I missed a bolt, lower left corner next to alignment pin. I just ordered a new cover! The bolt hole snapped by prying the upper right pry point. Stupid mistake but still cheaper than taking the car to Jaguar. OEM part $200. Live and learn!

 

I received my new upper timing cover and installed it, not easy. But as I attempted to mount electronic components I found the mounting holes had been drilled but not tapped. I was able to tap the holes with the cover mounted. Is this normal for whatever reason.
I put everything back together and ran the car to temperature with no oil showing. I’ll drive it tomorrow and check again. A fun project although my neighbors may not have appreciated all my expletives!

 

This is normal.

The majority of bolt holes on new engine parts for the AJ133 and AJ126 JLR engines are untapped. The type of bolts used from the factory are "tri-lobular" which make their own thread in the untapped holes.

An internet search for tri-lobular fasteners will explain.

 

Got it! Thanks
Interesting that the provider was unaware, or were they?
Anyway we’re good to go! Did get the check engine light but turned out to be low pressure in the fuel system while attempting to restart.