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Battery has both terminals disconnected and I can’t get into the boot

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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 05:13 PM
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Default Battery has both terminals disconnected and I can’t get into the boot

I can’t get into the boot of my 2014 jaguar f type s convertible. I disconnected the terminals cause I was planning on cleaning them the next day. Boot closed and now I can’t get in. Advice?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 07:20 PM
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Search is your friend, this is a fairly common problem and there are several posts/threads around here about it.
I can't recall the solution for now but maybe you can access the emergency boot release pull handle from inside the car, I know this is possible for the coupe but not sure about the 'vert.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 07:23 PM
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Can’t get to it from inside an what everyone did which is connecting to another battery didn’t work cause BOTH terminals are disconnected
 
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 07:49 AM
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spade, if you can get into the passenger area, you will then need to pop open the hood/bonnet. From there, locate the engine bay fuse box. Now, using a second battery, use a set of jumper cables to connect the negative to the engine block or some solid piece of the body and to the negative spare battery post. Then you can take the other lead and connect it to the positive battery post and inside the fuse box (or next to it) will be a covered post that feeds to the live side of the fuse box. Connect to that piece. If you get major sparks, then obviously disconnect the positive as you have battery leads on the body of the bar in the trunk/boot. Otherwise, this should power up the car to the point that you can pop open the trunk/boot and reconnect things properly.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 08:51 AM
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Thermo, you are talking about the under-hood charge points which are designed to hook a battery tender/maintainer up to or as jump start terminals.
No need to go hunting for an earth point, there is a dedicated earth terminal near (just behind) that red covered fuse/relay/positive terminal box, it looks like a long spiral bolt.
I should have remembered this method and I now recall that connecting a battery to those points will provide just enough power to open the trunk, it's just that I got confused coz using those charge points doesn't work to start the car with a flat or disconnected battery.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
Thermo, you are talking about the under-hood charge points which are designed to hook a battery tender/maintainer up to or as jump start terminals.
No need to go hunting for an earth point, there is a dedicated earth terminal near (just behind) that red covered fuse/relay/positive terminal box, it looks like a long spiral bolt.
I should have remembered this method and I now recall that connecting a battery to those points will provide just enough power to open the trunk, it's just that I got confused coz using those charge points doesn't work to start the car with a flat or disconnected battery.
so what do I do I already tried the jump points did even spark and I can’t get it towed cuz I have the parking brake active so the rear wheels are locked
 
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by spade
so what do I do I already tried the jump points did even spark and I can’t get it towed cuz I have the parking brake active so the rear wheels are locked
So did you connect a battery up then attempt to open the boot/trunk?
And if so what did you try, the under-dash button, the fob button etc? (the coupe also has a button on the under edge of the trunk lid, dunno if the 'vert has one as well).
If you did try this what happened?
And why do you want to get it towed, I'm guessing to a shop so they can try to get into the trunk?
The only way I know how to de-activate the parking brakes (two of them one each side) without electrical power to their motors is to take them off the calipers, two hex or torx bolts on each I forget what size.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
So did you connect a battery up then attempt to open the boot/trunk?
And if so what did you try, the under-dash button, the fob button etc? (the coupe also has a button on the under edge of the trunk lid, dunno if the 'vert has one as well).
If you did try this what happened?
And why do you want to get it towed, I'm guessing to a shop so they can try to get into the trunk?
The only way I know how to de-activate the parking brakes (two of them one each side) without electrical power to their motors is to take them off the calipers, two hex or torx bolts on each I forget what size.
the battery is in the trunk, both terminals are disconnected so the ELECTRICAL button for the trunk won’t work, I can’t get in the trunk, advice on getting in without a tow would be more helpful
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by spade
the battery is in the trunk, both terminals are disconnected so the ELECTRICAL button for the trunk won’t work, I can’t get in the trunk, advice on getting in without a tow would be more helpful
I am trying to be helpful but you are making it very difficult!
My suggestions were based on the idea that hooking up another battery to the under-hood charge points might provide just enough juice for one or other of the trunk opening buttons to fire, as I have a vague memory of reading about something like this somewhere on this forum.
And after owning my F-Type for nearly 10 years now and fiddling with it quite a lot (including fitting a new battery) do you think I might just know where the battery is????
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by OzXFR
I am trying to be helpful but you are making it very difficult!
My suggestions were based on the idea that hooking up another battery to the under-hood charge points might provide just enough juice for one or other of the trunk opening buttons to fire, as I have a vague memory of reading about something like this somewhere on this forum.
And after owning my F-Type for nearly 10 years now and fiddling with it quite a lot (including fitting a new battery) do you think I might just know where the battery is????
I already stated in the earlier reply jumping it didn’t work, at this point only thing to do is get it towed cuz I’ve done wat u suggested four days ago and nothing, not even a spark, so do you have any other suggestions
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 06:49 AM
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Sorry, no other suggestions, but as I said in post #2 this has happened to others and I'm sure there are some threads/posts about it around here somewhere and I am sure someone has found a solution so I reckon you should search for those threads/posts.
Also with the parking brake I vaguely remember a post somewhere on some forum, I think it was about an XK with the same type of parking brakes, where the advice was that the parking brakes can be released one at a time by pulling off the electrical plugs on them and hot-wiring a 12 volt battery to the connectors/pins - if that works it's gotta be a better way than unbolting them.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2025 | 03:46 PM
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From the sounds of things, what has happened is the positive battery post is touching something metal in the boot/trunk of the car. If this is the case, then you are pretty much set into having someone have to do some pretty extensive work to get back into it. In short, you have created a short that will not supply power to the car. If you say you have taken a spare battery that is fully charged, connected it to the points under the hood that should power up the car and you can't get into the trunk, then this does not leave a lot of options. I guess one bit of information I have not heard is whether the dash lit up after you applying power with the spare battery. If it did, then you should have been able to open the boot/trunk.

From here, I see 1 option and you are probably not going to like what I am about to say. In short, you are going to remove atleast one of the seats, then peel back the covering over the wall between the passenger area and the boot/trunk area. From there, using say a 1 inch hole saw, you are going to drill a hole into the trunk/boot area. From here, you will need to get a 6 footish/2 meter metal rod and bend a small hook in the end. Now, using a flashlight and this metal rod, you are going to go on a fishing adventure to try and hook the manual trunk release.

This is why I advocate for people to either wrap the battery positive in a plastic bag when they are disconnecting the battery and stepping away from the car or putting something that will stick in the surround of the trunk so if the boot tries to go shut, this object will prevent the latch from being able to make up. I have even heard of someone making a second latch that they put in the hole where the trunk latches so it already has something in the latch and therefore the trunk cannot latch. But, that is all hind sight at this point.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2025 | 12:06 AM
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Oz, Chris,
You guys are saints! God bless you.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2025 | 04:15 PM
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Bill400, granted, to prevent this from ever happening again, the solution is so simple, it will blow your mind. If you know you are disconnecting the battery terminals, simply open the trunk and before you start working, roll the latch in trunk opening to the "closed" position. This will not allow the trunk to latch, no matter how hard you slam the trunk closed. Then, after you do all your work, you push the open button one time, the latch will roll to the open position and you can close the trunk normally.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2025 | 07:27 PM
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I wonder if we will ever hear back from the OP as to whether he got the boot/trunk open and if so how?
 
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