This morning I made the decision to remove the Reverse Lockout Solenoid from the transmission. It was too close to the frame rail for comfort and I did not want to cut the frame.
I'll plug this hole to keep junk out of the shifter mechanism.


Left and Right motor mounts painted and ready for install.


I was able to finish the right side motor mount. The "ears" are gusseted on the inside to provide extra strength.


When attaching the motor mounts to the engine block I decided it would make my life easier if I had pointed bolts.


A few minutes on the lathe and I had a half-dozen ready to go.
The silver nut you see on the bolt just inside the chuck is a thread-restoring die to smooth out the threads.


After feeling satisfied with the engine mounts, I took some much-needed time to clean up my garage. It was a mess.
Then I decided it was time to figure out the pedals. Here is what I have to work with.
It's 8" from the blue line to the green line
3.75" from the red line to the blue line
4.75" from the yellow line to the red line
The purple rectangle is the the approximate location of the body mount. We're not cutting anything here.
I have about 8.5" between the yellow line and the blue line. That's the constraint for the pedal assembly.

 

Thorsen
You would have to move the dipswitch, obviously. Just to be clear, so I can amuse myself thinking about the problem:

• I take it that the green line is the position of the OEM accelerator pedal?
• Is the blue line and the teardrop hole where the OEM brake pedal was?
• Is there any structure above the photo (ie just out of shot) that could take a pendulum pedal support?
• Is the floorpan, if suitably reinforced, able to take a floor-mounted pedal assembly,
• If the M/Cs were in front of the pedals (quite a few racing designs are), is there enough vertical space to allow a false floor above the master cylinders to protect them and still have enough room for the driver's size12s?
• Is there enough vertical space/access to allow remote tubes from floor mounted pedal box master cylinders to go to reservoirs in the engine bay?

This is a pricey setup, but this sort of layout seems to me to be pretty ideal, if it fits. M/Cs behind the pedals, easy enough for the remote reservoir tubes to the engine bay, built in brake balance bar, including tubes and reservoirs; and Demon Tweeks (a well known UK speed shop) ship worldwide!
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/obp-...ampaign=471467

Good hunting!

 

Greg, you are correct about the green and blue lines being the location of the stock accelerator and brake pedals.

Here is a shot looking up from where the driver's heel would rest. You can see the dimmer switch; the square tube is for the emergency brake, and the steering column is on the right side. The three nuts I have circled in red hold the heater fan to a shelf in the engine bay.



Here is the heater fan.



I am hesitant to lose the fan but it is probably worth the effort to explore the feasibility of fitting something like this.

I like the pedal you linked and was looking at this a few weeks back but the body mount in the purple rectangle means I will need to separate the accelerator pedal from the brake/clutch pedals.

 

Thomas
How was the OEM brake pedal mounted?
As far a the body mount rectangle is concerned, if the pedal box was to be floor mounted, why do you have to touch the firewall and body mount rectangle area at all? Couldn't it be just a matter of threading the tube through to the M/Cs?

On my Alvis TD21, the fan was mounted at the front and ducted to the heater box on the firewall, so that might be a suitable way to relocate the fan if you have to?

Interesting puzzle...

 

It's been too cold to spend much time in the garage so I've been researching pedal assemblies and master cylinders to come up with a solution that will work. I think I am close.

For the pedal assembly I am looking at the Wilwood Swing Mount Tandem Brake and Clutch Pedal. There is a lot to like: adjustable pedal ratio. It will bolt to the firewall and put the master cylinders in a more normal position that under the floor. I will be loosing the bottom-pivot brake pedal which I thought was cool but it's not a deal-breaker.

For the brake master cylinder I am still torn but the Wilwood Compact Tandem Master Cylinder with a 1.0" bore is an easy choice. I don't love the price and know I can find something cheaper if I flip through the parts catalog.
The clutch master cylinder won't be a problem once I work out which bore size I need.

Unfortunately Wilwood does not make a matching accelerator pedal but I might re-use the stock pedal assembly.

Then I get to the brake booster and plumbing. The Mark VII comes with a single-line hydraulic system for the brakes which I am not fond of. This system incorporates a remote brake booster that lives under the passenger side floorboard. I'll be changing to a dual line system but my remote brake booster will only work with a single line. In doing some research most people hook up the booster to the front brake circuit but I don't love that idea. There are also Electric Brake Boosters, but this looks like the system on my XJS that I didn't love. And the price seems excessive. There isn't enough room for a traditional brake booster attached to the master cylinder. I need to think on this one some more.

 

Greg,
The OEM brake pedal and master cylinder are mounted under the floor board. The brake pedal pivot is the large hole in the upper left area. The brake master cylinder is directly behind that and is connected to the brake fluid reservoir mounted in the engine bay via a rubber (actually EPDM) hose.



Here's a view of the body mount from the engine bay. I am fine working around it but I don't want to cut or modify this part.


The rear side of the fan is sealed to the scuttle and takes in fresh air from the vent at the base of the windshield. I am a big fan of the functionality of it so I don't want to lose that. I think with the pedal assembly linked above I can keep this functionality intact. If you look at the picture of heater fan above the pedal assembly will come through the firewall somewhere close to the bottom of the windshield washer fluid bottle.

 

I picked up a slave cylinder for the clutch and was surprised to see that there were no threads on the inlet port.


GM had used a fitting on the end of the clutch hose that is held in place with a roll pin.


The clutch hose assembly is NLA and even if it was I didn't want to use it. Some searching revealed that there is an adapter that takes the roll pin assembly and converts it to a -4 AN fitting



With a -4 AN fitting I will be able to have a hose made that goes between the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.

 

How you manage to find this sort of stuff is just amazing, Thomas!

 

This one was pure luck, Greg! I started looking for an after-market clutch slave cylinder and found this, which is exactly what I have. I was about to close the window when the "You may also like" photo caught my eye - it was the adapter I needed to get to a threaded solution.

I thought $50 was a little excessive for what it is and found the same thing at Summit for 20% of the price.

 

@ Greg;
Not only that, Greg, he lives in Chicago, one of the largest industrial centers in the world-or at least used to be.
He probably doesn't even need to go online very often, maybe only to find the "local" address for what he needs.

And that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

Living in Chicago definitely has its advantages, like being 5 miles away from the McMaster Carr headquarters/warehouse for any hardware or raw metal I need, a couple miles away from a top tier drive-line shop that can make driveshafts in 24 hours, and my favorite - the food.
But you can't have the good without the bad and today the bad is the the temp outside is -4°F / -20°C with windchills down to -40°F / -40°C. I had to carry one of my dogs back inside this morning because her feet got too cold. I don't even want to go into the garage today!

 

I left Montana to get away from that sort of weather, I think I'll just stay Right where I am, thank you very much!
(';')

 

Thomas,

I ran across this last night and thought of you. Maybe your next project, since you've become such an expert on this era of Jag. Looks like it would be a fabulous car given the Thomas Touch:

https://www.copart.com/lot/98365755/...ny-long-island

Cheers,

Don

 

My goodness the white exterior/interior are incredible!

 

Now THERE's are car that would get the doorman running across the kerb to open the door for the (obviously has to be) glamourous passenger!

 

It's been almost two weeks since I've been out in the garage but today I cranked up the heat and got down to business.

First up was trying out the new shift knob I picked up earlier this month.


Then I put the AN adapter on the clutch slave cylinder and checked the fit on the transmission.


Then it was time to get serious about the brake and clutch pedals. First up was removing the washer fluid bottle and the original brake fluid reservoir from the firewall and inner fender.


On the inside, I needed to remove the small lip that was just to the right of the steering column. It held up the end of the under-dash pad but was right in the way of where the pedals were going. It was spot welded on so a few minutes with the air chisel and it was gone.


Starting to line up the Wilwood 340-16384 brake and clutch pedal assembly.
I drilled the holes in the firewall for the pushrods but I need to pick up the master cylinders before I can go further.
I did decide to keep the front and rear brake circuits separate and use individual brake boosters. I think my 420 Compact Saloon had this arrangement but I could be mis-remembering.


After that it was time to get back to the rear brakes. SendCutSend had delivered the new brake mount brackets a few weeks ago. Today they got painted.


After the paint dried I bolted it to the backside of the axle and put the silver metric caliper bracket on.


Everything bolted back up.
I picked up new castle nuts for the axle shaft but they were too tall to line up the cotter pin holes. I had to turn the back side of the nut down on the lathe so I could get the cotter pin.

 

The rear brake setup looks superb, Thomas.
On the pedals, which look like they were meant to go there, I take it that there is enough room to depress them fully, and that in the photo they are nearly fully depressed?

 

Correct, Greg. Without the master cylinders and pushrods in place, gravity is doing it's job and the pedals are in the position where they would be almost fully depressed.
Thomas

 

Today was mostly spent shopping for brake parts. Each of the 4 calipers has a banjo bolt/port and I needed a way to adapt that to the brake lines. I considered using a standard banjo adapter to AN adapter but after confirming that AN is acceptable for brake lines i decided I don't like the idea of a single flare being used in brake lines. And to be honest i am not 100% sure that AN is acceptable for brake lines.

In the end I ordered several of the hoses for the calipers I used. These are for the front and these are for the rear. They have banjo adapters on one end and standard bubble/double flares on the other end. I have a flaring tool to hook these up to the chassis.

Next up was the brake master cylinder. After measuring the area of the caliper pistons and researching, I went with a 1.00" bore master cylinder. The Wilwood Compact Master Cylinder is only 6.5" long and will easily fit within the allocated space without fouling the inner fender. It also has a proportioning valve which will let me adjust the pressure to the rear brakes - preventing the rear brakes from locking up first is important to maintain safety and stability. The price was eye-watering painful but it was worth it knowing it can do what I need it to do.

The clutch master cylinder was easy - since I am using the stock slave cylinder I picked the master that was as close to the size of the stock master cylinder. That was the .70" bore Wilwood master.

I have a flare kit so running new hardlines will not be that difficult. I did need a flex hose between the clutch slave cylinder and the body of the car. In retrospect I could have just bought a rear brake hose but I had Pegasus Auto Racing custom make me an 8" stainless steel hose with the correct ends for 4 times as much.

 

Superb solutions, lovely looking top quality kit.