Thanks! Will check them out.

 

Thomas,

I don't know if you've looked at the domed foam-style filters like these:

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-...u-carburettor/

This particular model has mounting holes that are offset downward so the filter sits a little higher on the carb. I'm wondering if these might work in my S-Type.

Cheers,

Don

 

I've had a busy week at work but today I was able to make up for lost time in the garage. First I picked up a freshly rebuilt 700R4 overdrive transmission.


Then I pulled out all the brake components on the right side of the car. I didn't take a lot of pictures this time because you say the drill on the left side, but here is the right front down to the basics.


The right rear emergency brake actuator was full of congealed grease and I suspect this was the reason the car did not like to roll.


The right front brake backing plate looks snazzy with a couple of coats of 2k satin black.


The sand blaster got a work-out today. Here are the wheel cylinders after I blasted them and painted. When they are dry I will lightly hone them and then rebuild.


The right front wheel hub after blasting off the old paint and re-painting. I have new wheel bearings and races to complete this.


I also pulled off the rear section of the drive shaft so I can address the leak from the pinion seal on the rear diff. I have never seen a pinion seal drip this bad from just being stationary.

 

Man nothing better than working with nice clean sand blasted parts!
The paint sticks so well.

I could not live without my blast box. It's just too handy!
.
.
.

 

This morning started with addressing the pinion seal on the rear diff. The nice part about having a long string of Jaguar projects is you get to re-use your tools. I think I made this flange holding tool for my XJS 3 or 4 years ago.



The old seal put up a little bit of a fight but at the end of the day a 3/16" drill bit and my slide hammer with the screw attachment had it out. Old seal on the left, new seal on the right. The old one was toast.


The new seal in place with a light skim of sealant on the outside edge. This should keep the rear end dry but I did drop some UV leak finder in with the gear oil just in case.


The input flange after a trip through the sand blaster and a couple coats of 2k paint. I masked off the area where the seal rides and coated that with grease before I installed this.


Next up was reassembling the right rear brake. No pictures of this as it was the exact same as the left rear, but it good to put a check in the box.


Here is the back side of the right front brake plate with the rebuilt wheel cylinders and the new hard lines I made.


Checking clearance of the new brake lines to the spindle/upright.


I'm hoping the group can help me confirm this is the anti-creep solenoid valve in the line to the rear brakes. It looks like it leaks so it's probably coming out.

 

I have no more room in my garage at all for one or hey press, but I'm thinking it might be time to build me. Maybe a small little wean tube big enough to fit these things in. Got to get creative with the space gets limited!

 

Yes, that is the anti-creep solenoid. My S-Type has the same part. The anti-creep switch is on the transmission housing. Since you're swapping to the 700R4, you won't need those parts anymore.

Cheers,

Don

 

We have a winner in the air filter contest. is a 1.75" thick, 5.875" OD, 4.5" filter that is a perfect fit in the cozy confines of the Mark VII engine bay, with one provision.


Due to both the proximity and weird shape of the inner fender, the rear air filter has to be offset up and the front air filter has to be offset down. 3D printing the plates helped to make sure everything lined up correctly.


There is ample room for the engine to move on the mounts without fouling the inner fender.


I just sent SendCutSend the designs and am having them cut our of .125" thick aluminum. I'll polish the end plates up and I can put a check mark in the box for air cleaners.

If you'd like a set of your own, the DXF files are located on my web site.My standard rules apply - you are free to make a set for your own use but you can't sell them. And this was designed and fit perfectly on my car - your mileage may vary. The files are named by their location in relation to the air filter (Ie - carb side, fender side) and by their offset (ie - offset up, offset down). They are standard DXF files and any online metal cutting facility can produce them. I like SendCutSend because of their choice of materials and the services they offer.

 

If it's not clear, the K&N filters are the standard shape and need a base plate and cap to do their job.

 

What model 3D printer are you using? I totally now see the merit in one for this purpose.

 

Really smart solution, Thorsen.

 

I have the Bambu Labs A1. It's a pretty remarkable machine in terms of quality of print and capabilities. If you pair it with the free/personal use edition of AutoDesk Fusion you really open up what you are able to produce. I taught myself AutoDesk by playing around with it and watching a few tutorials on You Tube so while there is a learning curve, it is doable.

As far as the merits of the printer - I've already broken even on 3d printing the concepts to check out alignment and clearance to other obstacles. In the old days I would design it, shoot it over to SendCutSend to cut it out, then tweak the design as needed. It was time consuming and expensive. Now I can tweak my design and have the next iteration ready for testing in 30-60 minutes.

 

Thorsen
For the technically challenged, could you explain a bit more?
I take it Autodesk produces a file which is somehow loaded onto the printer?

 

Sure!

First thing I did was scan the gasket for the air cleaner and a ruler into a JPG and then import that into AutoDesk.
The gasket gives me the layout of the holes, and the ruler - I'll show you.




I zoomed in on the ruler, drew lines at the 1" and 2" mark, then measure them. .002" is good enough for this demo



Once I'm sure the image scale is accurate. I start building. First up is drawing a circle for the carb throat.



Then 4 more holes for the mounting bolts and the suction piston breather holes.



Then I draw a 6" diameter circle, concentric with the carb throat. This is the outer edge of the base plate.



Then I draw a 4.5" diameter circle. This represents the inner diameter of the air filter. This is used to help position the offset....



In this example I am off-setting the filter up. I use the 4.5" ID circle to make sure I don't foul the mounting bolts.
After everything is lined up I delete the 4.5" circle - it's not part of the design and is only used a reference.



Once I am happy with the offset, I use the Extrude tool to form the shape. I call it "cutting the holes". The tool will make holes where I drew circles. In this example I am extruding it to a distance of .125" as I was planning on having these cut from 1/8" aluminum



Once the extrusion is done, I export the design as a DXF file that can be sent to SendCutSend.



Since I want to 3d print these, I use the Utility/Make/3D Print command to create a file that can be 3d printed, too.



I export the file and close out AutoDesk.



Next I fire up Bambu Studio which is the software used to take the file above and prepare it for printing. It's pretty simple. First, you import the file.



Then you tell the program to "slice" the design into something that can be printed. The printer does not print a solid hunk of plastic as that would be wasteful, it creates an internal hexagon structure to balance strength vs efficiency. You can adjust the fill patterns on how dense the internal structure is but I usually leave it at 20% fill.



The last step is to send it to the printer. This one would take 56 minutes to print.

Like I said, I'm self-taught so if you see something and wonder why I did it that why - it's because it seemed like the best way.

 

@Thorsen Really great tutorial. I have been using SketchUp for more than a decade as it was just what I landed on. I used it primarily for construction, landscape, remodeling, furniture, etc. I know I can use it for this same purpose and would probably stick with it since I know all the shortcuts and behaviors! I am certainly going to look into getting a 3D printer now. I mean, I knew you could do things like this with it, but I really only ever saw people making useless toys and nicknacks primarily. I am not a huge fan of plastic in general, but especially plastic that is for useless purposes. (ironically, I work for one of the largest discrete plastic manufacturers in the world. It's not all we do, and I am an IT Leader, so not really directly contributing, but the irony is unfortuante!). However, these are legitimate and useful purposes and in many ways is more sustainable than your original process.

 

Thanks very much Thorsen. I am thinking of pricing up 3D printers...

 

Plot twist. Turns out @Thorsen is actually a 3D printer salesman and this has all been on clever marketing campaign!

 

I had an incredibly busy week at work and wasn't able to spend any time in the garage, but this morning I was able to get back to business.

I found that the crankshaft pulley for a 2013-2015 Jaguar XJ (part number AJ814061) will fit if you open up the center bore to 2-3/8" and drill two more holes for mounting. I like the idea of the serpentine pulley and it only adds 1/8" more space to the front of the engine, but I think for right now I am going to stay with the C14589 V-belt pulley.



The air filter plates arrived today from SendCutSend and those were super easy to install. I am pretty happy with how that turned out.


I did finish up reinstalling all the wheel cylinders, wheel bearings, and wheels. I have been saving the brake master cylinder for last because someone has already been here before. The original Jaguar master cylinder has been replaced by this. I'm hoping I can take the part numbers I was able to decipher and find a match otherwise I don't know what I am going to do.

 

Got it! 297860 is for a 1961-1966 Ford F100 1/2 ton pickup. It crosses over to a NM37781. I need to take this one off and see how they handled the fluid inlet.

 

My goal for the weekend was to set the timing and check the mixture on the carbs. Before I could do that I needed to check for fuel leaks, so I stuck one end of the fuel pump into a gas can.


The other end of the fuel pump has a 6AN fitting that screwed right into my fuel filter.

I had two leaks caused by hoses that needed a quick tighten, but with the fuel system secure it was time to move on to cooling.


I should have my aluminum water pump block off plate in a few days, but in the mean time I took the plastic proof of concept I designed, drilled a hole in it, the glued in a hose barb fitting to attach the garden hose to.


Form follows function and for today's exercise this would provide enough cooling to allow me to run the engine for more than 10 seconds, which is what I limit myself to when the cooling system is empty.


I had two runs of the engine today for a total of 20 minutes run time. The engine sounds great but that's probably because the down pipes aren't fully tightened and the bridge piece between the down pipes and the rest of the exhaust system has a huge gap.
The oil pressure settled down to about 40psi at idle which I felt was a good sign.

After that I moved on to the brake master cylinder. Whoever adapted this master cylinder did exactly what I suspected they did - drilled and tapped a 1/4" NPT hole in the side of the body and connected that to the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay,


I don't love it, but I don't hate it either. After pricing out a new Jaguar Mark VII brake master cylinder I decided I could live with this one and ordered a new replacement for $50.


This is why I take things apart. There was a piece of masking tape in the master cylinder. I have no clue why it was there but if that blocked off the port you're going to have a bad day.


After that it was time to get serious about the front of the engine. Lining up the AC compressor was easy enough. It was staggered rearwards so the belt from the crankshaft was on the forward most groove.


My original thought was to piggy-back mount the alternator on the AC compressor. I would use a small belt from the rear groove on the AC compressor to spin the alternator. It would work but I don't love that.


I think I am going to spend some time revisiting the serpentine pulley idea.