I'm looking at a Mk II that has not been on the road for 11 years. The owner says it took a lot of steering to get down the highway back when he was driving it, so I'm wondering whether a rack & pinion conversion would be necessary to make it a comfortable highway car, or whether simply replacing worn parts and adjustment is indicated. Any experience with this issue?

Thanks,
Steve

 

Hi Steve,

I had two MkII's back in the day but neither were anything like new, I don't recall the steering being any kind of a problem.
I'd expect that if you get it back to standard it will be fine.

 

Getting parts for the steering box itself is probably your main problem, but if the box is OK, the track rods are obtainable. As a car in the US, it probably has the Burman power steering fitted, again, parts will be a problem.

There are kits available to convert these cars to rack & pinion, but some modifications are usually necessary to the chassis legs at the front. Converting means you get less turns lock-to-lock and easier parts availability. It does not alter steering geometry, so it will still understeer quite a lot as they all did.

 

Thanks for the info,
I made an offer and mailed it off, so we'll see whether I will soon be investigating the steering condition.
Have any fitted stiffer rear anti-sway bars to reduce understeer?

 

I don't think the Mark 2s had any anti-roll bar at the rear, but I may be wrong. Mine certainly didn't have one. It is not so much a roll problem, more that the car doesn't like to turn in to corners. It loves a fast straight road !

 

Straight being the operative word ;-)
That's fine - if I want to fling it around corners, I'll take the Miata. I'm looking for a comfortable highway car, as opposed to my 49 Ford with a narrowed rear end and ladder bars, combined with the original front suspension.

Thanks!

 

Quote from Autocar, 1959

"One of the most satisfying sights today is that of a Jaguar Mark 2 on the motorway, eating up the miles in the fast lane"

 

I am upgrading my 3.8S to power steering and spoke to others whom said it made a big improvement to the steering.

My car is still at least a few months before complete but I will try to post some pictures and information when it is done as I am doing some suspension mods. Researching it seems like other than poly bushings most people have done little to improve the suspension more. I will be upgrading the front and rears to adjustable coil overs so I can not only choose different spring rates but also adjust the ride height and suspension more to improve the handling. I will also be getting custom offset rims to try to squeeze as much tire in the stock wells. I know I am limited as the 3.8s has part of the rear fenders covering part of the wheels. I know I might only gain a size or two but every tiny bit will help the handling. On my 240Z I modified it to custom coil overs and was able to go from stock 185 tires to 245 tires in the stock fenders but I am guessing the rear on the 3.8S will only get 205 to 225? we will have to see...

 

I know it's a bit late, but just discovered this thread.
On my mk2 I installed the front beam from a mk10 / 420G with it's factory power steering already installed. Virtually a bolt in modification.
With regard to your wider wheels in the rear, consider the Coombes type spats, which allow the tires to portrude past the wheel arch.

 

No need to go with the coombes type spats as that is for a MKII not a 3.8S. Thus far I have not seen anyone with any real decent tires on a 3.8S or MKII; best I found was a guy whom cut his 3.8S and put 225 tires on it. You will be amazed as with minor modifications and NO cutting of the body at all you can stuff 245 50 series 17" tires on a 3.8S no that will give it some decent grip for some hard driving!

 

Primaz,
I plan to do the same thing with the adjustable coil overs on my 64 MKII. Have you already identified the coil overs you will be using? I have not, so I am curious about your research and conclusions.

Thanks very much,

Lin

 

I will have to check the brand and post it later but we found a nice quality adjustable coil over shock that is aluminum with adjustable shock settings that are variable that will provide a good amount (1.5 to 2") of height adjustment up or down. We went with about 100lbs stiffer due to the fact I am having a mobile office in the trunk with a HP color laser jet, wire binding machine, fax, machine, and I plan on trying to include a small microwave and refrigerator as well as the two dual batteries.

The fronts will also be adjustable coil over and we will be upgrading the brakes to 4 piston Wilwood with vented rotors. I want to ensure the car can handle and brake well especially after we retrofit the 450HP aluminum block and aluminum head fuel injected GM powerplant!