1958 2.4 manual will be refitted with a 3.4, next car to be built.




the parts that came with the 1959 mk1,this is my Christmas present


I think I know how to use the forum now ?? so i'd like to show how my mk1 build is going now that I have collected 3 mk1 and a truck load of parts. building the car is not that hard but putting it up on the forum is a little harder for me. i'll be starting with a clean 58 mk1 that was a 2.4 manual but when I got it there was no motor or box so out of stock i'll get a 3.4 with a Toyota 5 speed and mk2 diff a little wider and retro Dunlop wheels as on d types . it will keep it's black paint and red trim with the wheels polished.
jim.

 

Jim,
Looks great. Sounds exciting. Are you keeping the trailer hitch?


Regards,
Clyde Gantz

 

no clyde the trailer hitch will not be staying.

 

Shame the shipping would kill a deal, I'd buy it. It will make a great wall hanger.

I'm looking forward to following your project.

 

58mk1x2


I don't want to put a damper on your restoration, but why a Mark 1 ?
If you're going to go to all that work, the Mark 2 is a much more desirable car, as I am sure you know.

 

thanks for your reply jeff but I like mk1's better then mk2's and that what's make the world go round. merry Christmas.

 

Jim,
Two carbs or three. 5 speed sounds cool. What rear axle ratio?

At this point in time, it's great to have something that makes someone say "wow!". I did not know there were MK1's, MK2's, or "s'" until right before I bought mine. Starting with a solid car is the best. I've seen forums & you tubes where the entire bottom of the MK is rusted away. I'm not that brave. Takes a couple of years to complete without adding rust to the mix.

Regards,

Clyde Gantz





themix.

 

Jim:


Let them think the MKII is the easier build. I have 2 dismantled MKIIs and have 1 MKI for parts am in process of restoring my MKI also. I know MKIIs are more plentiful, but there are only a limited #MKIs. They too must be preserved even though they are a little more of a dinosaur compared to the MKII. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

You have a great Christmas too !

 

mk2




mk1


at the moment I will be running twin 1 3/4'' I also have 2'' to try, as for diff I have between 3.54 to 4.55 to use but I think i'll start with 4.2 as it's in the diff and with a .8 overdrive it just might work. also the thing I like about mk1 over mk2 is the roof/windows is fuller on mk1's both car have the same floor pains.
jim.

 

I like the spats on the MK1. .8 & 4.2 gives you zip & a 3:36 final if my math was correct.

I did 3:54 & .7 with a 700r4, but there is a BBC in front of it all in my 77.

Merry Christmas ,

Clyde Gantz

 

I'm just the opposite, I like the larger window area and the upper chromed door pillars. (and window frames rather the body work)
But you know, now that you mention it, Jaguar should have left the rear windshield smaller in the MK2, looking at it now, the larger rear shield does make the body look "cut off' at the back.
Plus the fact that the rear quarter window also cuts into the body.
Yup, Jaguar should have used the smaller rear window in the MK2's.

 

small window great lines



clyde the spats are coombs spats which is a after market spats, I also like your math hope your right.
jeff it's good to have different views , looking at the photos the lines of the mk1 makes the car look lower in the roof line to me.
cheers till next time.

 

I like the Coombs spats too. Glad there are others with my appreciation of these cars. Now on to new post to beg for parts...

 

[QUOTE=58mk1x2;1121539]small window great lines

I also like your math hope your right.
QUOTE]



Jim,
There are multiple calculators on line the include inputs for ratios, tire sizes, etc. They give you speeds at a given RPM.
Transmission ratio times final drive gives you the overall ratio for that gear.
When I was working on the '77 doing the calculations, it helped with the final drive decision and tire height needed.
These results help me select the speedometer driven gear.
I ended up with an accurate speedometer, and RPMs at given speeds that I had calculated.


I found some fiberglass spats on e-bay from England that are narrower than Coombs. The ad said they were "racing spats". Essentially a lip. Stands off at rear due to locating pin that needs cut to length. Show here with a stock tire, will look better with the right tire selection.

 

I found some fiberglass spats on e-bay from England that are narrower than Coombs. The ad said they were "racing spats". Essentially a lip. Stands off at rear due to locating pin that needs cut to length. Show here with a stock tire, will look better with the right tire selection.QUOTE,



you can get them in steel and much better than GRP,
coombs cars did not have spats at all.as he put 3/4 copper tube around the wheel arch.

 

Thanks for the note on the steel spats. Can't remember if I saw those at the time of ordering or after. I do recall they were ~twice the price. I had just bought a Moto Lita wheel and was in the most for the $ mode. I've since thrown that idea out the window.

I am intrigued about the copper pipe. Did he just screw it on, or screw it on & mold it in with lead or other filler?

Regards,

Clyde Gantz

 

think I did rear some where they brazed them on and yes maybe lead filler at that time,

 

for my spats I am using the front wheel archs from a mk2 and welding them into the spats , may I say the mk2 I wrecked was rusted beyond repair.

 

that's what I am going to do to my mk2,as you will get same for back as front,