MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Daimler V8 /68

Old Mar 15, 2016 | 01:24 PM
  #1  
dstjohn's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Default Daimler V8 /68

Hello, Went to start up, started no probs, went to apply brakes, right to floor!
All brake fluid leaked out over the winter.
It's presently at the shop to have the air removed from lines, etc.

Do I need a new master cylinder? (it's never been touched) If so where?
 
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 04:25 PM
  #2  
sov211's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,918
Likes: 2,524
From: Victoria, Canada
Default

Yes you do, for safety and I have had exactly the same experience with my 1966 Mk 2 while going downhill...the fact that I can write about this is almost a miracle. In my case a new aftermarket seal kit had been put in the master cylinder and it failed. We put in a brand new master cylinder and booster unit from XKs Unlimited and all has been well. The brakes are up to modern standards with good pedal feel and stopping distance ( but it remains a single rather than dual line system).
 
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #3  
Fraser Mitchell's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,547
Likes: 2,546
From: Crewe, England
Default

Fine, the brakes are now being sorted out, but where did that fluid go ? It has had all winter to do its second trick, namely to strip off all the paint wherever it lands.
 
Reply
Old Mar 15, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #4  
JeffR1's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 805
From: Lake Cowichan BC Canada
Default

I'm betting the fluid filled the vacuum chamber cylinder inside the booster.
I'm surprised it didn't all get sucked up in the vacuum line into the intake manifold. (lots of white smoke when this happens)
It's probably filled the vacuum tank in the fender well.

Time to overhaul the braking system...
New master cylinder and booster for sure.
Best check the calipers as well, the bores are probably rusted and pitted.
Don't forget your flexible lines too _ just replace them.
 

Last edited by JeffR1; Mar 15, 2016 at 08:25 PM.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 09:03 AM
  #5  
Jagfixer's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 656
Likes: 180
From: Millstadt, IL
Default

Look under your floor mat. Sometimes drips into compartment, but agree with JeffR1.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 11:27 AM
  #6  
dstjohn's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Default Daimler V8 Brakes

The car is back, brakes work perfect, they found no leaks on the system, so yes were did the fluid go?
If it went into the booster, wouldnt that cause some tell-tale symptoms?
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 12:20 PM
  #7  
JeffR1's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 805
From: Lake Cowichan BC Canada
Default

The booster holds quite a bit of fluid, but when it does reach a breaking point, the brakes will continue to work normally, but the excess brake fluid will get sucked into the intake manifold and be burned.
If the seals are marginal inside the booster allowing the fluid to escape into the main vacuum cylinder, then I suppose the brakes could fail.
Not trying to scare you, but it should be looked into.


And if they found no leaks, that is where the fluid went _ inside the booster.
 
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2016 | 05:45 PM
  #8  
Fraser Mitchell's Avatar
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,547
Likes: 2,546
From: Crewe, England
Default

Agree, it's time for a booster rebuild. However we mustn't forget the Reservac tank that sits between the booster and the manifold. If any fluid has been sucked out of the booster, some will have ended up there, I think. Apart from the non-return valve these have no moving parts so it's just a matter of draining it off.




The slave cylinder in these boosters, (UK=Servo), is cast iron, and I can remember rebuilding mine in the 80s, and carefully cleaning the working passage where the piston with its seals operates. With the age of these things, a light hone to remove marks might be beneficial as it's obvious the surface where the seals sit may be corroded thus the seal doesn't seal and fluid leaks past into the vacuum chamber. If the unit is to be rebuilt, a depth gauge is needed to set the piston rod length.
 
Reply
Old Mar 18, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #9  
dstjohn's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Default Daimler V8 1968 / oil filter

Hello, This is a simple one? What oil filter fits, I have a Bosch 72121, but can't quite remember if this is correct, too many autos.
Or a Hastings LF115, the Wix no. 51515.
The Bosch looks right?
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
David - Jaguar Daimler V8compressor
UK & Eire
0
Dec 22, 2015 04:21 AM
1964Daimler
MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler
3
Oct 11, 2015 10:43 AM
chromeglobe
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
2
May 13, 2015 05:09 AM
KiwiTD
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
16
Jan 11, 2013 03:00 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:40 PM.