MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Engine rattle on tickover

Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:20 AM
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Default Engine rattle on tickover

Hi, my 63 mk2 recently developed a loud rattle on tickover, that diaspears over 1000rpm, was hoping it was something rattling against the exhaust but sounds louder when I take the oil cap off. Plenty of oil and pressure gauge is normal. Was going to start off taking rocker covers off and looking for any obvious wear and tear/ damage as well as an oil and filter change beforehand. Any tips before I start?
Paul
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:13 AM
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When you take off cam covers look for a loose cups and loose locking clips.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 05:55 AM
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If it were me, I'd lift off the cam covers and check all tappet clearances, and also check the top timing chain for tension.
Has the lower chain ever been replaced ? This is tensioned with spring loaded hydraulic tensioner. There is a ratchet to take up chain wear but if the port off the oil gallery to it gets blocked it can fail to take up slack. Tensioners can be replaced as can the fixed chain guides, but its a big job as the front timing cover is held top and bottom by the cylinder head and the sump. It's a job done at overhaul, basically.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagfixer
When you take off cam covers look for a loose cups and loose locking clips.
Hi, removed covers, all caps secure and tight, no signs of damage though one inlet cam looked a little scored. All oil ways appear clear (gallery full of oil).
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Fraser Mitchell
If it were me, I'd lift off the cam covers and check all tappet clearances, and also check the top timing chain for tension.
Has the lower chain ever been replaced ? This is tensioned with spring loaded hydraulic tensioner. There is a ratchet to take up chain wear but if the port off the oil gallery to it gets blocked it can fail to take up slack. Tensioners can be replaced as can the fixed chain guides, but its a big job as the front timing cover is held top and bottom by the cylinder head and the sump. It's a job done at overhaul, basically.
Tappet clearances fine 0.004", timing chain appears tensioned, wear plates didn't look excessively worn, changed oil and filter all good.

Having the car on stands and listening underneath am not sure if it's from the top half, bottom half or even gearbox (auto)? Think it's a visit to the local Jag garage..
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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You can purchase these engine stethoscopes to try and pin-point the sound.
Or you can use a wooded stick that works quite well, mine is the width of my ear, about 1/2 inch thick and made out of red cedar.
The length can be as long as necessary _ simply place the edge hard up on the engine where you think the noise is most pronounced.
It's surprising how well it works.

And when you say the timing chain appears tensioned, did you check the bottom one as well.
Maybe one of the hard rubber surfaces on the chain guides has come loose and that's what is making the noise.
Or something going on with the bottom chain in general.

Distributor/oil drive ???

A worn distributor shaft can be noisy, when was the last time the grease cup was filled and screwed in ?

Just had an important thought while working out with my weights. There may be a very good chance the noise is coming from the coupling that connects up the power steering pump to the generator.
This assumes that you have power steering. If the noise is coming from that area you may even be able to feel it with you finger tips _ on a cold engine _ that area gets quite hot from the exhaust pipes.
The coupling is rubber mounted _ the rubber becomes hard and brittle and fails _ you then have metal against metal, causing the noise.
If it is suspected the coupling is shot, it's a simple check to undue the Allen head bolts holding the power steering pump to the generator and check the coupling.
 

Last edited by JeffR1; Jun 28, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
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