It is getting to be that time...I have 2 questions:

1) I know that Jaguar used a few different clutch discs in the Mk2-8.5" to 10.5" Is there anyway to know which six=ze is in my car based on chassis number (VIN)

2) I have heard that it is an engine out operation, but has anyone done it with the engine in? Maybe remove the dirve shaft to get the needed extra room to remove the transmission?

Thanks

Josh

 

If you look here, you'll find two clutch parts diagrams, one for the early coil spring type and one for the later diaphragm spring type. In either case it is an 8.5" clutch plate.
https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#.../assembly/2179
The later part is listed as from an engine number. VIN wasn't around at the time of the Mark 2 car.

 

I have replaced the clutch in my '68 240 without removing the engine. I didn't know any better. In my driveway with the front wheels up on ramps, I disconnected the drive shaft, loosened the rear trans mount and top front trans mount, then tilted it back. It was tight getting to and removing all of the bell housing bolts. I had to use 3 extensions connected by universal joints. The carbon release bearing was worn and didn't match any other Jaguar bearing. So I cut another bearing out that had a matching carbon, heated my carbonless bearing on the stove, dropped the new carbon in and into a bucket of water. It's still in the car today.

 

Jim ~ I'm fascinated that you did this clutch engine in. Did this body start life as an Auto which has a larger tunnel?

 

The Diaphragm clutch is smaller diameter on 3.8"s ~ not sure about 2.4's but the one to go for if your flywheel is drilled to take both as many are. The diaphragm clutch requires lighter pedal action/pressure. You can quickly develop a tired leg in traffic with a coil spring pressure plate.

 

No, it has always been a manual. A few of the bell housing bolts were hard to remove and when I lowered it down there was only a mm of clearance. I was told afterwards that it couldn't be done.

 

Yes ~ Ive also always been told it can't be done. Thank you!

 

Hi Jim - I know it's been awhile. I have a 68 240, and need to replace the clutch. In your planning for that work, how did you determine which clutch you needed specifically. I haven't taken anything apart or out because I don't want to start until I know what I'm dealing with and get the parts.

ANYTHING you can share as to tips or advice, I'd appreciate. Thanks kindly in advance.

 

If your engine number begins 7J as a it should in a 240, the clutch should be the later diaphragm spring. Either way, since you are replacing it, it's worth converting to the later type. In 3.4 or 3.8 that involves drilling the flywheel, I don't know for a 2.4. Ideally, it's an engine out operation (certainly for the larger engines). Tilting sounds difficult. There is a 'dirty' method which involves cutting a large piece of floor out of the car and is not encouraged outside of dire emergency.

 

The garage replaced my clutch with the engine in place.
However it was then discovered that a flywheel from a 3.4 or 3.8 had been fitted so I had to return the one I had and get a different one.