Hi - I’m a new member and considering buying a Mk2 3.4 which doesn’t have power steering. How much would it cost to supply and fit a system and could you advise on what unit is best and any recommended mechanics in the West Country who could do this for me. Thanks

 

I'd suggest joining the Jaguar Enthusiasts' Club (JEC). That will give you access to experts: Ken Jenkins, David Marks, and Peter Bell. They can give good advice on everything and the JEC Somerset area will know good specialists local to you.

For steering, there are a few options.
- The first is to see how you get on without PAS, but with everything in good condition.
- The next is a system such as EZ, DCE and others which apply electric assistance to the steering column. Most people who have used these arrangements seem very pleased with them. But, unless you also invest in a higher ratio steering box, you still have four and a half turns lock to lock. The costs of these systems go from a lot for EZ down to very little if you adapt a system from secondhand parts. Personally, it worries me that they may overstress/ware components by applying more force.
- Several have converted their cars to a power assisted rack, usually taken from a series XJ. Again, most reports are good. The turning circle is usually increased, which might be a problem. There's some bump steer and generally there's a loss of Ackerman.
- Finally, there's adopt a power assisted steering box from a Mk2, S type, or 420. There are a different versions of these made by Burman or Adwest. With these you want all the linkages, drop arms, tie rods, steering arms as they aren't the same as in the non-PAS systems. With Burman, only the last type with three and a half turns lock to lock is worth buying. The best system is the Adwest Marles Varamatic as fitted to the 420, 340 and last S type and Mk2. It requires a bit more work to fit; the easiest route is to buy a complete 420 front subframe. It's a very nice system and can be rebuilt and adjusted for wear (unlike any other).

For myself. I played around with a rack system on the floor of my workshop, but bought a complete 420 subframe with Adwest Marles steering (with the later, bigger brakes thrown in). The total cost was about £400, which is good value compared with the other options and most likely is also the one that functions best (I'll not be able to make a final judgment until the rest of the car is finished).
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Edit: I should have mentioned that retrofitting PAS is something that has been discussed extensively in the past. A search will throw up a lot of info and opinions!

 

Hi Peter
In regards to your comment : With Burman, only the last type with three and a half turns lock to lock is worth buying

It seems that initial Burman features 4.9 as the number of turns lock to lock
From which chassis number will we switch to 3.5 turns ?

My best regards
Gérard

 

Peter
Additionnal question :
Can we swapp easily without any modifications a Burman type 1 (24:4:1 and 4.9 turns lock to lock) by a Burman type 2 (16:7:1 and 3 turns lock to lock) on a Jaguar MK 2 1962
Regards
Gérard

 

As far as I am aware the Burman type1 and type 2 are interchangeable but I would not go for either of the Burmans. Prone to leaks, poor lock to lock and difficult to service or adjust. I have the Marles Adwest fitted to my S Type from factory and I can recommended it for its driving feel as well as serviceability. I rebuilt mine during lockdown and found it very easy to disassemble. The new seals are very easy to fit and my PAS system is now leak free. The Adwest was fitted to the S Type from 1967 on as well as the 240 and 340 from 1967. The 420 also ran the Adwest from 1966 but had a different PAS pump which will not fit the Mk2. The PAS pump from the Burman systems which is situated behind the generator is the pump you require. If you have an alternator conversion then you can buy a Dynalite or similar which looks like the old generator but has the internals of an alternator and runs the PAS pump of the back as original. Again I have this system and it works really well.
Find someone breaking a 420 and buy the whole front subframe. As Pete said you get all the correct linkages, Adwest steering box and the uprated front brakes. You will then have to source the PAS pump and generator separately. Some people thing it is expensive doing it this way, paying £400 to £500 for the system but remember whatever you take off your car you can resell to recoup your expenses so it ends up being about £100 to do the change whereas fitting an XJ6 rack kit or electric power steering will put you back over £1000.

 

Thanks to Cass and Peter

• When was the Burmann Type 2 version released ?
• Did the Jaguar MK2 come with the Burmann Type 2 version or only on S-type ?
• Can we swapp without any modifications a Burmann type 1 by a Burmann type 2 on a Jaguar MK2 ? If yes, the idea is to use an Burman type 2 part coming from an S-Type and leverage of the 3 turns lock to lock feature instead of 4.9

My best regards
Gérard

 

I'll second what Cass (Rob) says. You may have to wait a while for an Adwest Varamatic to turn up, but long term it's a better solution and it's going to cost less. It might not be easy to rebuild or find someone to rebuild the Burman PAS boxes (you can't adjust out wear in them, it's a matter of replacing parts). For the questions about the Burman boxes, I don't know of the top of my head. All I can do is try to interpret what's in my parts book. I'll try to have a look at it tomorrow. I can't be certain, but think the S type always had the later Burman until it was replaced by the Adwest Varamatic and probably all the linkages are the same for the PAS boxes.

 

Don't quote me but I think the type 1 and type 2 both had the same lock to lock ratio. S Type only had the Type 2 fitted as Pete said.
You are more likely going to find a 420 or a Daimler Sovereign being broken for parts than a Mk2 so it would be sensible to look for and wait if need be to get all the 420 front subframe. Don't be confused with the 420G (Mk10) though as although it was fitted with a version of the Marles Adwest PAS box it is slightly different in how it mounts to the subframe and the 420G subframe will not fit a Mk2.
As we have seen in Lord P (Head won't come off) post some times a rebuilt system although more expensive to buy can be cheaper than buying a second hand cheap unit and finding it needs a complete rebuild anyway. Rebuilding an Adwest PAS box, apart from changing the nylon bands which I did not need to do, is an easy on the kitchen table job for a novice mechanic. Fully adjustable to take out the slack caused by wear and the seal kit is only £42. https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...=STEERING(9356)
The Burman on the other hand is very intricate with lots of parts that can go anywhere and as Pete said can only be adjusted by replacing worn parts. (Expensive) The seal kit is cheaper at only £19 but when you compare the photos on the SNG web site https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...1-7a97188c33d5 the Burman has around 40 rubber seals compared to the 8 on the Adwest to replace so no wonder it leaks like a sieve when it gets old and worn.
Don't forget any purchase price of a 420 front subframe will be offset by selling your old front subframe so it does not end up being expensive at all.

 

Hi Cass
Actually, there were indeed two versions : Burmann type 1 and type 2 with different lock to lock ratio. (4.9 vs 3)
It seems that the type 2 has been introduced in October 64 on the Jaguar S-Type as well on the MK2. Higher operating pressure.
Below the lock to lock ration for both versions.

 

Here is what I did.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...-works-281031/

As the thread indicates, it is till a bit hard to turn in a parking lot, some maneuvering required. But otherwise I am quite pleased with the swap as to the original box.

Also I am adding A/C and and swapping to an alternator, and one runs out of room for power steering pumps. The electric ones require a higher output alternator which just raises the cost. I am using the Delco 10SI 65 amp unit for around 50 bucks.

The under dash unit as described is way too expensive.

Good luck

jjsandsms

 

Been digging in my MK2 parts book. As I understand it (= no guarantees), all steering systems have the same levers on the suspension uprights. All manual systems have the same outer and centre tie rods that adjust toe on the centre rod. All PAS have the same tie rods that adjust on the outer rods. Every steering box has a specific drop arm and idler.

Chassis numbers:
From pages 323-329 of parts book
Burman 2 started at LHD 3.4 180529, 3.8 224588 (NOT as I first wrote 175001, 3.8 210001 which are Burman 1); RHD 3.4 171101, 3.8 235196
Varamatic started at 3.4 171583, 3.8 235312

However page 263 possibly suggests different chassis numbers for Burman. It's not clear if they are for Burman2 or Burman 1 updated to a different drop arm.

As for merits, Cass and I have been heaping praise on the Varamatic. We should say something negative about it. All I can think of is that it's heavy (or you could say built to last and contain the fluid pressure), so removal and installation aren't one handed positioning jobs.

With edits in bold!

 

Hi Peter
I am surprised about your Burman starting figures :

• LHD 3.8 starting at 210001 means :

• RHD 3.8 starting at 235196 means :

My understanding is that Burman type 2 has been introduced in October 1964 (on the S-Type as well as MK2)

Another touchy questions : it's not clear in the spare parts catalog
Is the Burman (type 1 or type 2) Power-Assisted Steering Unit the same for LHD and RHD ?
I would say yes but ......I prefer to adress the question to experts.

My best regards
Gérard

 

About the numbers, what you say makes sense. I may well have copied them incorrectly (and the parts book isn't always correct). I'm not sure on using the same box for RHD and LHD as the steering column needs an angled approach to the box in order to get past the engine. I'll try to do some more research tomorrow.

I've no great personal experience of Burman PAS boxes. I tried a Mk2 with (I think) Burman 1 and it wasn't preferable to my manual. And I've never taken one apart. Glyn Ruck has a Burman 2 in his S type and considers it to be good, though he is an even bigger enthusiast for a Varamatic.

 

An aside, whatever PAS is used, it's good to increase the caster angle to about as big as it will go, certainly 2 or 3°. The standard settings were selected to make the manual system as light as possible.
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Gerard,

I've edited the chassis numbers in my post above. I apologise as I had copied the wrong ones from the parts catalogue.

The LHD and RHD Burman PAS boxes have different parts numbers confirming that they are different. I don't think Burman 2 was fitted to the Mk2 as early as to the S type so 1966 makes sense to me.

Again according to the parts book, although the last RHD Mk2 cars had the Varamatic box, the first 49 LHD 340 cara received the Burman 2. It seems Sir William was determined to use up any parts on the shelf!

 

Hi Peter
You are right
I didn't open the forum this morning and start investigation. You have been faster.
Effectively Drop arm, Inner Coumn and nut assembly, feed pipe asembly are different

Have a good day
My best regards
Gérard

 

According to the 420 parts book the RHD Variomatic PAS is part number C26998 and the LHD version is C26999 so appears not to be interchangeable.

Apart from the fit the LHD version is easier to adjust as the adjuster screw is on the left side of the unit and you can get to it. On the RHD unit the adjuster screw is still on the left side but this means it is hard up against the side of the sump and the only way to adjust any slack is by removing the unit from the car. Then as Pete said it is bloody heavy and a two handed job with a ramp or pit to assist. Easier than removing the old starter motor but still heavy.
This is a photo of the Adwest Variomatic unit on a RHD car in situ with the engine removed. It shows the two adjustment screw locations and as you can see the lower one for the rack is tight up against the sump when the engine is in.




One of my criticisms of the Variomatic is that it is perhaps too light a feel when driving. I have got used to it now but at first I found any little movement of the steering wheel turned the wheels with little of no resistance feeling through the steering wheel at speed. Precise but very light. Then at slow speeds or manoeuvring the steering became heavy. I put this down to steering pump pressure as the pump is driven off the back of the generator and ultimately governed by the speed of the engine. I have an Auto so on tick over (600 RPM) the pump gets a smaller amount of pressure than if driving at 2500 RPM. If I had a manual it might be different as although the tick over RPM is lower than an auto you have the ability to dab the throttle with the clutch feathered to give you that little boost of pressure to make the steering lighter. Modern electric PAS systems with their ECUs tend to get tighter when at high speed and easier to turn at slow speed but our PAS system is all mechanical/Hydraulic.

 

Rob, There are a couple of things that might help you. An increase in caster gives better feel and more load at speed. That's not just my opinion; Ken Jenkins gives the same advice after converting a lot of cars. If you can't achieve much by moving the spacers on the top ball joint, it's possible to use the GM/Buick method of moving camber spacers from the front to the rear end of the top wishbone fulcrum. The lack of low speed assistance may well be due to wear in the pump, possibly oil getting past the pressure relief. It usually shows up more at low speed when the oil flow rate is lower.