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While I would not fit for originality reasons & I'm not sure I like the BMW type "halos".
If you really want to see where you are going at night this is it like Bi Xenons are.
Mercedes BiX projectors produce 400% more light than halogen. (why mechanical dipping is mandated in Europe ~ a solid shutter pops up giving perfect cut off with car attitude monitored by a microprocessor), Their LED's a little better but draw far less power. Even BiX draw less power ~ typically 35 watts.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 14, 2023 at 02:19 PM.
what I want is a potent way to maintain electrical power in the S type. That generator can't keep up.
I already have bright lighting, but the generator can't keep up. After all the trouble I have been through removing the engine, I am not wanting to reinstall the generator. or the monster starter.
yes but I don't have LEDs anywhere in the car. The headlamps are the original and the auxiliary are quartz. As long as the car is moving no problem, stop at a red light and battery gets discharged.
It might be worth checking the resistance across the live and ground sides of the headlamp system. For the live side, there's the option of a new dedicated cable and using the existing line to operate a relay. But, as Glyn said, a LED requires little current and should resolve the problem. There's now a LED bulb with the diodes arranged to model the filament of a conventional bulb. It may not be as good as some of the systems that replace the lens and reflector, but it should still be an improvement. In most countries, it's legal on cars as old as ours. I don't imagine they can dazzle oncoming traffic any more than the modern mega-lumen systems even when they're technically dipped. Apart from the classic car lighting companies, a good place to look are suppliers for old off roaders that used round headlamps, Land Rovers in the UK and I guess Jeep in the US.
Another "fix" to Jose's problem is to fit an alternator in place of the generator. Just make sure the alternator has a built in regulator.
I did this relatively simple modification to a couple of Mk1 and MK2 cars.
a 50-amp alternator is capable of punching out 600watts right down to idle speeds which is more than enough to hold the lights on full bright.
I know it is not original (don't tell Glyn!) but it does beat the frustration of fading lights and battery discharge in traffic.
However, this may not be possible if you have a power steering pump driven through the generator.
You can have an identical looking alternator Bill with PAS pump driven off the rear. No issue there. There are a number of manufacturers. No fabrication required.
On a new car their are 3 deal breakers for me: Park Distance Control/Parktronic back & front (Don't need rearward facing cameras). Bi-Xenon or High Intensity LED headlights & Navigation. All the rest of the crap like Lane Assist, Distronic etc. are just nice to haves.
Dynalite Alternator with PAS pump drive: (Most Lucas Dynamos/Generators don't even have the split casing).
PAS pump drive at rear.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 14, 2023 at 10:11 PM.
Jeez! You learn something new every day. I didn't know such things existed.
Now I think Jose should really consider an alternator if he wants to keep original lights as he suggests.
I don't think Jose's generator is up to snuff. Probably needs new brushes & maybe a comm undercut ~ or he could move to a smaller pulley. But an Alternator is the real answer and checking all earth points & straps. Especially the strap that jumps the LHS front engine mounting.
Yes JB ~ I just installed one of the new ones that is set for life. No adjustments. Popped the old RB340 cover on it. They are otherwise identical in all respects.
Old regulators do get out of whack. They are an electromechanical device and do need an occasional bit of maintenance.
I have lost track of the number of times I have found them way off the desired 13.8 to 14.2 Volts output sometimes under 13 volts.
That is not just in Jaguars, and I have helped people with Rolls Royce, Austin Healy, Morris Minors etc. with these problems.
The points on both the cutout and regulator sections are generally pretty crusty and need cleaning.
The regulator sections are easy to adjust but for some reason people seem to be put off disturbing the old sealant on the adjusting screws.
A reasonable quality multimeter is needed in resetting a regulator. Otherwise it is a relatively simple procedure.
Don't overdo it as I once came across a MK 2 where the owner had wound the regulator up to 16 volts and the gassing battery had stripped the paint under the bonnet and set off some serious rust.
I have researched 7" LED headlights and think the Vision X 7" LED is one of the best. They have been one of the top choices in many reviews. I am running them on my Jaguar 3.8s and they look great, and they provide a great light output for safe driving. I have been very happy with them and now installed them on my 240Z cars as well.
There are a range of prices for the Powerlite/Dynalite alternators, all rather high compared with a secondhand alternator. The father of a friend of mine made a steady retirement job out of restoring dynamos, starter motors, and regulators. He reckoned most dynamos needed service and regulators were frequently badly adjusted even when in good condition.
The Dynamator C42 (for the S Type with PAS take off) is possibly the cheapest at less than £200 but only has a 2 year guarantee. Produces 45A. https://www.accuspark.co.uk/dynamatortype4.htm
I have run a Dynamator C42 for four years and have had one problem where a rectifier stopped working. Phoned up my supplier, Accuspark and a new rectifier, which is easy to replace costs £15. As I was in the guarantee period they swapped mine for a new one and I bought a spare rectifier which is the only thing that can break down in it as a spare.
Potent Projector 7" LED headlights.
