Hi all
this post is mostly for UK people,
I have removed the rear calipers off the 250, has anyone any feedback on whether to get these refurbed or replace with new? The actual caliper irons are ok but it's the cylinders that are probably u/s.
I'm trying to do this on a budget but will ultimately bite the bullet if I have to.
I'm down in Essex so would be keen to hear if anyone has done this down south or anywhere come to that.
cheers Steve.

 

I would think it is best to fit new ones but a lot depends on how bad yours are. The existing cylinders are cast steel, and the seal is on the piston, The cylinder wall is just the honed cast steel, there is nothing shiny there, and corrosion means that most cylinders that are refurbished, get lined with stainless steel. What this costs, I don't know but there are also rather expensive stainless steel wheel cylinders available as well, but may well be less than the labour for refurbing.
If you look on the SNG Barratt website under the Daimler V8 saloon, you'll see four choices, but it won't be cheap as you need four cylinders, so their cheapest @ £91.36 incl VAT, means you'd have to spend £365 plus postage. Then you'll probably need to refurb the handbrake caliper as well, so allocate an adequate budget. As far as I can see on the internet, nobody just sells the piston seals
I was lucky when rebuilding my Mk 2 in 1979 when a friend who worked at Lucas Girling gave me a full car set that just happened to be lying around in his office.

 

Blimey, 1979, the car must have been nearly new, it's a wonder you haven't had to do them again.
I have just bit the bullet and bought 4 new cylinders.
Steve.

 

The car was a 1967. I sold the car in 1988 after a 7 year rebuild starting in early 1981. In those far-off days cars didn't last long at all, due to severe rusting.

 

Hi Steve,
I'm in the finishing stages of restoring a 1962 MK 2 and I obtained a seal kit for the rear brake cylinders it was cheap as chips ! I think I got it fro M&C Wilkinson
Ray

 

I did think about it but my pistons were pretty stuck so I have bought new ones,
now waiting for a puller to get the rear hubs off, easy enough I reckon? Lol.

 

I Made a puller to get mine off ! It worked well as mine had been apart once before If you get stuck your welcome to use it

 

There are a few threads about the hub puller(s), there's there original "Churchill" Jaguar puller that works well of course, but it's not always available.
The other one is made by OTC, but the business end of it doesn't fit the axle well so one has to modify the end to fit the axle.
Don't waste you time with Chinese junk, it simply won't work.

Churchill Rear Hub Puller Loan. - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Unfortunately, as others have found out over the years, pulling the rear hubs off can be a real battle. As others say, the Churchill tool does the job, but "normal" pullers don't. Some people have actually put the puller on, tightened it up to a very high degree and then left the car alone, and came back to find that sometime in the standing period, the hub had come off. This job is a real PITA. I believe use of a heavy hammer and also some heat can be beneficial, but don't take that as gospel, because this is a job I never did on my Mark 2 back in the 80s, I'm just passing on others experience.

 

That's normal standard practice to hit the screw part of the puller while it's under tension, it's designed for that, it's the shock of hitting it while under tension that "breaks" the hub.
The guy in the video doesn't do this, just tightening things up doesn't always work.
That's why it's important the puller that makes contact with the axle fits properly.
The Churchill tool has a large ball bearing that nestles comfortably on the end of the axle.