There is an alternative to taking the engine out via the top of the car.
Remove the front suspension and support the body on jack stands
Support the engine and remove mounts, cross bar etc. Lower the engine onto the ground.
Raise the car body front and wheel it away. (needs 3 or 4 strong males or an engine hoist or similar.)
This is the reverse of how the car was assembled in the factory. ie Body was dropped over the engine.
Reassembly is the reverse. I have been involved in doing this on a number of occasions.

 

I took the engine out of the top but was aware of taking it out of the bottom but in your experience Bill do you have to remove the exhaust and inlet manifolds to do this? Can you have all the auxiliaries such as starter and alternator attached? Lastly in your experience how tight is the engine against the sides of the chassis legs as you raise it in to position. Obviously it can be done as you say this is how it was originally installed but this was done with the engine on a jig and the body was lowered over the top by a mobile crane and five guys making sure it didn't hit the paint work.. No robots in those days.

This is a great film of a visit to the Jaguar factory Browns lane in 1961 to watch the assembly of the Mk2 Jaguar. On the time line at 20:19 you can see them lowering the body over the engine and running gear but it is not very clear what is attached to the engine..

 

At assembly during build ~ engine in at the bottom makes more sense than at removal time.

 

Cass 3958

The only things you have to take off the engine when dropping it out of the bottom are the carbies on 3.4 and 3.8 engines and I suggest the tachometer generator as it is easily damaged. On 2.4s the carbies can remain in place.

There is plenty of room for the complete engine and gearbox with all bits otherwise attached .

I have restored 5 MK2s and 5 MK1s and assisted numerous Jag club members in their restorations. I currently own a 1957 Mk1 and 1960 Mk2 as well as 4 other Jags all currently registered and roadworthy..

cheers

Bill

 

That is just down right greedy but I am very envious.

 

thank you all for the tips.

Mechanic wants to remove engine from the top. he does not want to mess with the front suspension. I want to remove the dammed center support cross bolt which is keeping the engine from moving up and out.

We rescheduled because I am worn out, He removed the carbs assembly but the generator, manifolds, driveshaft, stabilizers, radiator, fan, was all removed by me. The driveshaft and generator were the worst. My hands and wrists hurt. The trans support spring rubber seat is bad, need a new one.

I do understand engine removal thru the bottom is better but too late now.

 

When I did my engine, I found the exhaust manifolds were the worst, I don't think they had brass nuts.
And the fan _ very awkward to get in there.
I have stainless steel nuts on the exhaust now, I find brass to be too soft and they were always loosening off.

I used a ratcheting box end wrench to put the fan back on, but still very tight to get in there.
I also made sure the threads on the nuts and bolts were clean and undamaged so I could nip them up with my fingers as much as I could.

Installing the engine form the top allows one to bolt up the exhaust manifolds before the engine goes in, this is so much easier then contorting to get at the nuts underneath.
I also replaced the 8 studs with stainless steel on the exhaust manifold where the pipes bolt onto.
The mild steel studs were toast, but I had to use an oxy/acetylene torch to get the studs out.

 

the brass manifold nuts have lock washers so they were not loose or too tight, those were easy. But disconnecting the down pipes from the manifold flanges was another thing. They had 4 nuts each, total 8 nuts, tight as hell and not enough leverage from below. Using a woble socket and extensions didn't make it any easier. Yes the nuts were pre-soaked with penetrating rust busting spray and even that did not make it easy.

my solution was to free the manifolds from the head, that was what did it.

I am thinking of using only 2 nuts on reassembly at a cross angle on each flange.

 

Jose you could change the studs to stainless steel as these were originally mild steel and did tend to rust out. Using only two of the four is not a good idea as the heat from the exhaust is going to expand the joint and the two studs that are without nuts will warp and cause a leakage of exhaust gas. Not only will it sound horrible but you don't want exhaust gases coming from the engine bay in to the cab via the bulkhead.

 

Jose. Were the manifold to down pipe nuts also brass? If they are they usually come off quite easily.






Prior to fitting felt seal to re-chromed dipstick.

 

the flange nuts are steel, not stainless, not brass. Maybe that is why they are so stubborn. Once loosened, they came out alright. but getting to a few of the nuts that is another story. Frank took a few off then I took the rest off. remember when I installed the Bell exhaust in 2005 I had to use a number of tricks to start the nuts, then other tricks to tighten them.

One of the flange ears is broken off, I have a solid pair of manifolds from a 1964 S type but the porcelain is gone on those. And I cannot afford to redo the porcelain, so I will just paint them and the heck with it.

 

My flange nuts were brass/bronze so I replaced them with brass as you can see. Maybe it was a running change. Suggest you replace with brass.

 

My "At assembly during build ~ engine in at the bottom makes more sense than at removal time." is talking purely about efficiency. If the car is being built new or being restored and in a thousand pieces it makes sense to fit the engine/transmission from beneath. If the car is fully assembled then it makes sense to remove the engine from above. That's why it is shown from above in the Service Manual.

Both Cass & I had to move our cars to multiple locations so already had suspensions & steering, brakes etc fitted. Hence engines in from the top.

 

Remove the locking nut on the end of the rod. Remove the stepped washer underneath. Then remove the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the bellhousing - a long extension and swivel sockets will make it a lot easier. Then the whole bracket and rod can drop out the bottom.

 

Well it's 1 nut & bolt through the bell housing brackets vs 4 bolts that hold the brackets to the bellhousing. Take your pick. The cross bolt is easier. The Nyloc (Simmonds nut) & stepped washer I presume to be off already.

 

we removed everything except the cross bolt at the bottom on the transmission-bolted bracket. So cross bolt will be removed and I believe engine will be freed.

everything else is freed.

on reassembly I already have a High Torque starter to get rid of the Lucas, and I am ordering the retro air alternator with power steering adapter because I want to get rid of the generator and because I will be adding air conditioning once engine is repaired.

I am waiting no more to enjoy this car.

 

Jose if you are going to add AC then David Reilly (S-type registry) is your man. He has made complete scans of the 'S' ac instillation at the Coventry Foundation library. I think he is doing an article for the e news letter. Best of luck.

 

Coventry Foundation, thanks.

I am planning on doing the retroair kit, not the 1960's factory system.

https://retroair.com/jaguarairconditioning.html

 

Jose ~ you are not an originality man & with this route you will not have an inefficient evapourator that takes up half the boot/trunk & runs on modern refrigerants. Show us some pics when done.

 

Glyn I know I know.

I don't like the idea of moving the battery to the boot and the resulting mile-long battery cables under the chassis, but I imagine that is less of an issue than mile-long refrigerant hoses under the chassis.

I suggested using the space behind the grille for the battery and hinging the grill like a "door" with lock and key. and the guy started laughing.
Ever heard of Throw Out Hinges ? I asked him, no imagination.

Anyway I just don't want a battery in the trunk. Gases and corrosion to ruin the upholstery. The fuel pumps are enough hassle.

What I might do is a box under the rear seat like they did in MG-B and in modern motorhomes.