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Gregory ~ I notice that you have placed 2 rubber U sections on either side of your bonnet/hood aperture. Were you getting slight spots of paint shimmy at the hood edge? I've done the same thing but shorter for that reason even with the S Type adjustable rubber hood buffers.
Glyn: those black trim pieces (the U-shaped pieces) were placed there simply because the bare edges looked unfinished to me, not for any more practical reason. The late Mk 2 also had the rubber buffers at the windscreen end (not visible in the photos above).
I do show this car in Concours events but in a "Driven" class, which means that nothing under the bonnet is judged. The rest, though, has to be as close to original perfection as possible...wait...that makes no sense because none of these cars were perfect from the factory!
Apologies for the offensively shiney speaker bits...they do show in a flash photo, don't they? I keep thinking that I should find a better full range speaker. Petula sounds a bit thin...I'd like a single speaker that would do justice even to Cleo Lane (no doubt there are some reading this who have no clue who Cleo Lane is...showing my age and inclinations here...).
Yes it does. A vast taste in music. (High end audio is my other hobby but cars are a hostile environment for decent sound). While polarity switchable my radio is mono (NOS) with a single speaker. No cutting up the rear parcel shelf for me. Only effort at modernity was a new Visaton speaker with no shiny bits on it that would show through the left hand grill.
I do not worry about keeping it as stock as you, which enables me to enjoy Focal separates in custom kick panels so nobody can see the speakers in the front, two 7" long throw JL Audio subs in a hidden enclosure in the passenger firewall area, and another set of Focal separates in the rear deck; powered by a 5 channel amp under the passenger seat This provides very good quality audio yet nobody can see any of the speakers at all...
One of our donated fleet actually has a stepper installed for idle and compressor load. It is pretty well devised as they used all Jaguar parts. They installed a Tecalemit fuel valve from an XJ6 plumbed into the brake vac. line with a "T" and the switch from a brake hold system on the throttle linkage in the normal spot. When the AC is on at idle it opens a small "leak" which bumps up the idle just a few hundred RPM.
TO Jose. In reading that you separated your DG from the engine please make sure the small tube in the end of the mainshaft is not dropped out or lost. If it is you will not have lockup when back on the road. Any assumptions on how we know this are accurate.
I do not worry about keeping it as stock as you, which enables me to enjoy Focal separates in custom kick panels so nobody can see the speakers in the front, two 7" long throw JL Audio subs in a hidden enclosure in the passenger firewall area, and another set of Focal separates in the rear deck; powered by a 5 channel amp under the passenger seat This provides very good quality audio yet nobody can see any of the speakers at all...
Yes. Hidden systems are easy today. JL Audio makes good subs. I'm less fond of Focal's car speakers. They always sound a little nasal to me. I love their Grande Utopia EM Evo III home speakers. They sound glorious but should do at $260,000.00 a pair.
The Jag is not a daily driver. I have a dedicated sound room/threater at home with Magneplanar 3.6's in a full surround array, bi amped with Audio Research solid state on bass & tubes on midrange treble via Bryston 10B active crossovers. 4 Velodyne DD top of the range servo subs & every front end toy you could ever want. I can dial the room absolutely flat from multiple seating positions with a 5 mic array. I can recreate a very close image/replica of the Musikverein in Vienna which is my global reference for sound.
Was a sleeping director in a high end audio import company until my partner passed away & gave up on car sound a very long time ago. It's simply never right so you may as well just tolerate a reasonable car system with all it's failings. As I say, a car is a hostile environment for accurate sound. I live with the uprated (extra cost) factory system in my Merc.
This was the standard factory rear mount speaker & grill if so ordered with a balance control front to back. Those are lights reflected in the rear screen ~ not wires.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 13, 2021 at 07:00 PM.
Glyn: those black trim pieces (the U-shaped pieces) were placed there simply because the bare edges looked unfinished to me, not for any more practical reason. The late Mk 2 also had the rubber buffers at the windscreen end (not visible in the photos above).
I do show this car in Concours events but in a "Driven" class, which means that nothing under the bonnet is judged. The rest, though, has to be as close to original perfection as possible...wait...that makes no sense because none of these cars were perfect from the factory!
Apologies for the offensively shiney speaker bits...they do show in a flash photo, don't they? I keep thinking that I should find a better full range speaker. Petula sounds a bit thin...I'd like a single speaker that would do justice even to Cleo Lane (no doubt there are some reading this who have no clue who Cleo Lane is...showing my age and inclinations here...).
Understood. On my car with perfect bonnet fit (Side chrome aligned with scuttle & front flat) I noticed some light chafing on the clearcoat in two minor spots. Nothing that did not polish out. So I fitted 2 short side buffer strips. Did not notice your speaker grill. I just hate looking at an S Type's console grills with 2 or 3 way speakers behind them & a chromed tweeter staring at you.
If Petula sounds a bit thin just hide a powered pancake sub under a front seat.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 13, 2021 at 09:22 AM.
One of our donated fleet actually has a stepper installed for idle and compressor load. It is pretty well devised as they used all Jaguar parts. They installed a Tecalemit fuel valve from an XJ6 plumbed into the brake vac. line with a "T" and the switch from a brake hold system on the throttle linkage in the normal spot. When the AC is on at idle it opens a small "leak" which bumps up the idle just a few hundred RPM.
Interesting. Makes sense for certain compressor loading.
TO Jose. In reading that you separated your DG from the engine please make sure the small tube in the end of the mainshaft is not dropped out or lost. If it is you will not have lockup when back on the road. Any assumptions on how we know this are accurate.
indeed it fell when tranny was pulled back.Took a few minutes to figure it out but it went back where it came from. Thanks.
Thanks. Goes to show you don't need these monstrous things & did not even back then. Jose can confidently fit a unit that saves an awful lot of space as I suspected. Trouble is those huge lumps actually hark back to the Mk VII if you do some research. All he has to decide is if he wants a compact evaporator front or back & where he wants the cold air to enter the car. I fully understand now how your system is configured. The XK engine has a heavy flywheel/TC Flexplate & crank so the York does not disturb it. In some vehicles those York reciprocating compressors could kick up quite a lot of low frequency vibration. Thanks again.
BTW. I kept my car positive earth.
I have a a/c that I pulled off a 1964 MK-2,
A YORK compressor dated 1977 with a long support bracket and double pulley, a small behind-grille condenser and brackets, hoses, and a under dash unit with evaporator from 1970's too. The compressor condition is unknown. I only pulled it for the parts references. It probably is bad.
Last summer I visited Gregory in Victoria and brought my AC tools with me. The system had a refrigerant leak, and I found some of them, one being the valve stem core. I didn't have one with me of the proper size, so I cleaned it up and put it back. It seemed to hold vacuum, but after a month Gregory reported that the refrigerant had leaked out. The lines are flare fittings instead of the more modern O ring style and there was slight leaks there too. I tightened up the fittings ( they were only finger tight) but I suspect they may still have a slight leak.
The system is a recirculating system, it simply draws air from the cabin footwell and passes it through the evaporator. After charging I was able to get air at 2 C out of the vents with the fan on high, and that was the point where the Ranco switch cut out the compressor. I wouldn't charge to the point where I would get evaporator freezing anyway.
Incidentally, the under dash system is identical to the system Jaguar installed in the front of my 1990 Daimler DS420. The Daimler has different condensers, but the underdash unit is the same.
My 1966 S Type has the indentation in the inner fender, the same as Gregory's car. It looks like a factory pressing to me
2 deg is fine as long as you can shift enough air. The last thing you want is a frozen evapourator. Thanks for confirming that the evapourator is just recirculating cabin air. That partially explains it's efficiency. It's not having to endlessly cool 100% exterior hot air.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 13, 2021 at 02:29 PM.
A YORK compressor dated 1977 with a long support bracket and double pulley, a small behind-grille condenser and brackets, hoses, and a under dash unit with evaporator from 1970's too. The compressor condition is unknown. I only pulled it for the parts references. It probably is bad.
Why don't you have the compressor checked and ask for a quote to repair it. You don't have to go ahead with it if you don't like the price. I personally like swash plate compressors but you will probably never be happy with what they cost for a good one like a Denso.
Good idea Glyn, except I don't know who could check it around here. Here's some pics of the parts less the under dash unit.
The condenser is pretty hefty as you can see in the picture. There are three brackets, one is hidden behind the compressor.
Hi Jose,
I would use this system from Vintage Air, since it is similar to the OEM system. The air vents are similar to the Jaguar outlets. They also have compressors, condensers, hoses and electric cooling fans. https://www.vintageair.com/instructi...685000-VUY.pdf
Vintage Air did the A/C systems for both of the Ford GT programs.
Bob_S
thanks for the info, but that unit will eat up 1/3 of the trunk space based on what I can see, and I am not sure a rear mount is what I want. I like freezing air hitting me from the front. The planet is getting hotter.
By the way: Vintage Air is owned by Classic Auto Air who purchased Retro Air. Nobody there knows what is going on, they don't even know they own Retro Air. Rock Browning, the founder of Retro Air, is nowhere to be found. Big mess. There is a branch in Tampa Florida of Classic Auto Air / Vintage Air, and they do their own mods in-house. I just found out they can test the YORK compressor there. So a trip to Tampa is next but I want to finish the engine first.
Wow, we are both into quality audio systems. Having the upgraded sound system in the Jag makes it an even more pleasurable experience. While the car environment is not ideal it is so nice listening to a good clean system is so much nicer than the el cheapo stock audio; it makes such a difference during drives to hear a good quality audio system.
At home, I too have a all separates system with NAD amps, Marantz non powered pre-amp processor, three sub woofers (one I made with a dual voice coil 15"), 7 foot screen full surround sound, 4K.
Wow, we are both into quality audio systems. Having the upgraded sound system in the Jag makes it an even more pleasurable experience. While the car environment is not ideal it is so nice listening to a good clean system is so much nicer than the el cheapo stock audio; it makes such a difference during drives to hear a good quality audio system.
At home, I too have a all separates system with NAD amps, Marantz non powered pre-amp processor, three sub woofers (one I made with a dual voice coil 15"), 7 foot screen full surround sound, 4K.
Yes ~ I've had to silent aircon my audio room with 13 channels of backbreaking crusty amplifiers putting out heat & a dedicated sub board & uprated 230V mains supply. When I built the room I put in 26 power points & I'm still running multiple power rails to plug everything in. ARC Stereo preamp & one CD player are tube with the rest of the front end solid state. Wadia CD player, Multiple LD players & DVD players multisystem PAL, NTSC etc., DVDA, SACD, Bluray, Tuner, AV preamp, AV decoders, Video processor, X overs, Satellite TV, Room correction, 4 Subs & my trusty Linn Sondek LP12 & Nakamichi Dragon etc. etc. ~ gets warm. Heritage gear, Receiver, Oppo Bluray playall etc either in the downstairs lounge for daily casual use or packed away. I make my insurance company nervous. All big screen TV sets are Sony Triluminos units.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 13, 2021 at 09:28 PM.
You are definitely an audio guy, I had a Nak dragon, still use my Oppo Digital player, but for me the higher quality front 4K projection with a good screen is my preference as I want a screen larger than 100".
I threw out my SIM2 Video projection system & Stewart Filmscreen. I found the image too big & irritating in the end. I don't like watching in the dark & could never achieve blacks & colour contrast & saturation that satisfied me. The picture lacked pop even using screens with gain. Deep Pixel LCD's are far less ambient light sensitive. Gave me a place to mount my overhead effects channel speaker ~ Also a Maggie. I'm more of an Audio guy than a videophile, even though I have a large catalogue of material in all the formats.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 14, 2021 at 07:16 AM.
Jose one thing you might find interesting is unless there is internal damage (broken piston rod or cylinder damage) all of the parts are readily available to rebuild a York. Normally head gaskets and seals are all that is needed--very simple and in most cases can be done in situ.
Jose one thing you might find interesting is unless there is internal damage (broken piston rod or cylinder damage) all of the parts are readily available to rebuild a York. Normally head gaskets and seals are all that is needed--very simple and in most cases can be done in situ.
This provides very good quality audio yet nobody can see any of the speakers at all...
