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Coventry Foundation:
let's get it tested! The a/c system came from a 1964 MK-2 that was shipped to Washington State from Singapore, Right Hand Drive. An army man exported it.
I know the owner and he offered me the parts if I paid shipping, which was a hefty cost because of the weight of all the separate parts ffrom Washington to Tennessee. He told me the system was good and working but he didn't care for a/c. I also have the inside cabin under dash unit, quite a big unit for a MK-2. I have it packed somewhere but if I remember correctly it is an ARTIC KAT unit complete with chromed vents and controls inside a plastic case, From the mid-1970's.
what I would like to do is assemble it on a table and get it running outside of a car. But I don't know what motor to power it.
Well that is a novel approach Jose. As a first blush I would think a 5hp 110 motor with a belt and proper size pully would power it successfully. If on an open table I might consider charging it with propane or another cheap gas (unless you have a recovery machine). You could also use very short hoses so the vol. of R12 or 134 would be small. You could test the York by itself to see if you have suction and pressure but it will need a new front seal no matter the results of the test. The biggest issue will be the mounting brackets for the compressor and the belt runs. Regardless of the compressor type this is the challenge. After that the routing of your lines will require some hole cutting and if you are going for the under dash model I would ask SOV for some pics and information. Good luck.
Bob_S
thanks for the info, but that unit will eat up 1/3 of the trunk space based on what I can see, and I am not sure a rear mount is what I want. I like freezing air hitting me from the front.
Hi Jose,
My thoughts would be to lift the Vintage Air unit up till it is just under the package shelf. That way you would still have some space under the unit for packages/luggage. I understand the velocity effect of cold air on the head has, it speeds up cooling the body. But even with the rear unit you should be able to direct the air to cool you off quickly. Coventry Foundation has eluded to Jaguar recommended register aiming for maximum cooling. But on the other hand I understand what happens with the evaporator core is directly in front of the passenger. In an accident the leg may hit the evaporator core and cause injuries. That is unless the core is angled and not perpendicular to the dash.
Originally Posted by Jose
By the way: Vintage Air is owned by Classic Auto Air who purchased Retro Air. Nobody there knows what is going on, they don't even know they own Retro Air. Rock Browning, the founder of Retro Air, is nowhere to be found. Big mess. There is a branch in Tampa Florida of Classic Auto Air / Vintage Air, and they do their own mods in-house. I just found out they can test the YORK compressor there. So a trip to Tampa is next but I want to finish the engine first.
Where did you hear that Vintage Air and Classic Auto Air are the same company?
Unless things have changes in the last couple of years Vintage Air and Classic Auto Air were two separate companies. I know that in 2016 Vintage Air was designing a system that they hoped would take a large chunk of Classic Auto Air's market share. I agree that Classic Auto Air bought Retro Air 5 to 7 years ago.
I spoke to someone who anwered the phone. she did not know about the alternator converison. she did not know about retro air, then she put me on hold and came back apologizing stating that they had purchased retro air but they had noone who knew about the conversion from gen. to alt. She told me to call Classic Auto Air and they might know, at which time i gave up on them.
by the way, same situation at Terry's Jaguar Parts.
I called asking about gen. to alt. conversion.
The person I spoke to insisted that Jaguars had no power steering in 1965, and he was not aware of any C42 generator with a power steering pump attached to the rear.
My goodness! Terry's is an old business selling Jaguar parts in Illinois and they put this person on the phone?
Moss Motors in Caifornia and Simon bbc in UK want almost a thousand dollars for a Dynalite.
Accuspark UK took my order for a Dynamator and then refunded payment saying they were out of stock for up to 12 weeks. What the ?
Mike Martinez of Star Auto Electric in California says he doesn't sell them because they are too expensive but he charges $350. to service a C42. haha!
I have spent hours and days shopping for a alternator conversion for my S type and frankly the best alternative I have seen is member's Jagboi64 Vauxhall adaptation that he fabricated himself.
Vintage Air is in San Antonio Tx, and Classic Auto Air is near Dallas TX. If they were the same company they wouldn't have different systems for the same vehicle. If I remember, I'll call my friends at Vintage Air next week and see what they say.
by the way, same situation at Terry's Jaguar Parts.
I called asking about gen. to alt. conversion.
The person I spoke to insisted that Jaguars had no power steering in 1965, and he was not aware of any C42 generator with a power steering pump attached to the rear.
My goodness! Terry's is an old business selling Jaguar parts in Illinois and they put this person on the phone?
Bill Terry, sold Terry's Jaguar Parts a long time ago after his son passed away. He sold the parts company to a Michigan company, I forget their name. But you might have gotten someone new on the phone. It's hard to find good help now a days.
Moss Motors' unit is the one I like, a real alternator with real amperes. Looks like the one built by Jagboi64
but at that price? puts me out of business.
Accuspark's unit is priced decently but out of stock for 12+ weeks. I ordered it, paid for it, and then received a refund saying they had no stock after I had contacted them by email and confirmed availability. They also have them listed on eBay UK with a big NOT IN STOCK banner. I think they are speculating. Why would you be listing on eBay if you cannot deliver?
XK's Unlimited actually had that Moss Motors unit built before Moss bought them.
indeed Glyn, it's old stock unsold by XK's and picked up by Moss Motors from XK's Storage units in San Jose California.
And XK's quality could not be trusted, it's no wonder they went out of business.
Sorry to hear that. You've got this far. Just rebuild the engine. Cut the crank & rebore. Hope the cams & valvetrain are OK. Get the head off & find how water got into the oil. Hopefully just a light head shave & new gasket. Hope the head has not corroded through. Also need to check that the timing chain cover has not corroded through behind the water pump. Common. Can be welded without distortion.
Clean out those oil galleries in the crank as I mention earlier in this thread. Remember that cylinders 1 ~ (rear) & 6 ~ (front) are furthest from the oil pump feed.
Good luck!
This was just Plastigauging the bearing clearances. Had not even painted the exterior of the block yet or plated/replaced the bolts & washers. Was fully dismantled again after this.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 18, 2021 at 09:57 AM.
This is the rear asbestos seal that you have. Yes?
You have the Service Manual on your website & The Register. Read pages B29 & B42, B43 in conjunction with one another & you can remove the lower seal housing & crankshaft.
3 Allen cap screws hold this to the block (upper seal housing)
Apply some heat to the stubborn cap screw. Use a BFH with high quality Allen key to loosen. Add strong tube to Allen key to increase leverage if needed.
Good luck! Yet another seal housing was used in 1959 but your car can’t have that. Too new.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 17, 2021 at 03:54 PM.
Jose ~ You might want to consider the SKF Flex Seal conversion while you are machining the crank. I would have done this had it been available when my engine was rebuilt. Although if you fit the rope seal properly. Roll it in with a tool or the crank & don't trim it at all they work. Mine is dry & done to the book.
Jose do as Glyn says. DO you have a WSM? If not this will not go that well--or fast. As to the rear seal if you use the proper tool and follow the directions it will be fine and a lot less costly than the conversion--which has mixed reviews. Once the crank is cut you are committed. When I say the correct tool I do not mean something that sort of works---the correct tool! Good luck.
