brucefal
Have owned 2 Jags since 1993 here in California, and loved them both. First was a Silver 1988 XJ6 that finally got passed on in 2016 to a charity donation. The second, a 1999 Silver XK8 convertible, 125,000 miles and in pristine condition. It doesn't get driven much now, as it's not the thing to pull up to an oil rig in! Wrong impression, if you know what I mean. Especially if it is sunny and the top is down...
I'm having an issue with the California smog check and clearing the codes to allow the test to perform. The EVAP and CCM won't clear, so for the last 2 tests I have had to take it to a dealer 100 miles away to clear one code, and have it smogged at a cost of over $400 each time. I bought an ODB-II reader to help, but it just verifies that the code isn't cleared. I tried the EVAP drive cycle (that I got online) 4 different times and couldn't get it to clear, driving 90 minutes each time over miles of CA freeways, and even being stopped by a Highway Patrol while doing it!!! When he saw all the electronics in the front seat, I think he knew to move on.
I think the dealer cleared the CCM code and not the EVAP code since he only drove it 20 miles and was done in 90 minutes. Does anybody know the drive cycle steps and tricks of the trade to clear the CCM code? Or is their one drive cycle that clears them all in one fell swoop? All the others are fine. Tough to do this when I only put 500-1,000 miles/year on it.
I'm having an issue with the California smog check and clearing the codes to allow the test to perform. The EVAP and CCM won't clear, so for the last 2 tests I have had to take it to a dealer 100 miles away to clear one code, and have it smogged at a cost of over $400 each time. I bought an ODB-II reader to help, but it just verifies that the code isn't cleared. I tried the EVAP drive cycle (that I got online) 4 different times and couldn't get it to clear, driving 90 minutes each time over miles of CA freeways, and even being stopped by a Highway Patrol while doing it!!! When he saw all the electronics in the front seat, I think he knew to move on.
I think the dealer cleared the CCM code and not the EVAP code since he only drove it 20 miles and was done in 90 minutes. Does anybody know the drive cycle steps and tricks of the trade to clear the CCM code? Or is their one drive cycle that clears them all in one fell swoop? All the others are fine. Tough to do this when I only put 500-1,000 miles/year on it.
Welcome to the forum brucefal,
Good to have you with us at Jaguar forums.
(I've moved your first post from the end of Reklaw1973's Intro thread to a new Intro thread of your own.)
Follow this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/ to the XK8/XKR forum for help, advice and information. The 'HOW TO' thread at the top is a good place to start for information on regular issues.
Please add vehicle details to your Signature to help others to give relevant advice. Go to the User CP button on the left of the top menu bar, then Settings & Options under Your Control Panel. Select Edit Signature and enter the details.
You can also visit the US Western Region forum by following this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/us-western-38/ to find other members in your region.
Enjoy the forums.
Graham
Good to have you with us at Jaguar forums.
(I've moved your first post from the end of Reklaw1973's Intro thread to a new Intro thread of your own.)
Follow this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/ to the XK8/XKR forum for help, advice and information. The 'HOW TO' thread at the top is a good place to start for information on regular issues.
Please add vehicle details to your Signature to help others to give relevant advice. Go to the User CP button on the left of the top menu bar, then Settings & Options under Your Control Panel. Select Edit Signature and enter the details.
You can also visit the US Western Region forum by following this link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/us-western-38/ to find other members in your region.
Enjoy the forums.
Graham
Have owned 2 Jags since 1993 here in California, and loved them both. First was a Silver 1988 XJ6 that finally got passed on in 2016 to a charity donation. The second, a 1999 Silver XK8 convertible, 125,000 miles and in pristine condition. It doesn't get driven much now, as it's not the thing to pull up to an oil rig in! Wrong impression, if you know what I mean. Especially if it is sunny and the top is down...
I'm having an issue with the California smog check and clearing the codes to allow the test to perform. The EVAP and CCM won't clear, so for the last 2 tests I have had to take it to a dealer 100 miles away to clear one code, and have it smogged at a cost of over $400 each time. I bought an ODB-II reader to help, but it just verifies that the code isn't cleared. I tried the EVAP drive cycle (that I got online) 4 different times and couldn't get it to clear, driving 90 minutes each time over miles of CA freeways, and even being stopped by a Highway Patrol while doing it!!! When he saw all the electronics in the front seat, I think he knew to move on.
I think the dealer cleared the CCM code and not the EVAP code since he only drove it 20 miles and was done in 90 minutes. Does anybody know the drive cycle steps and tricks of the trade to clear the CCM code? Or is their one drive cycle that clears them all in one fell swoop? All the others are fine. Tough to do this when I only put 500-1,000 miles/year on it.
I'm having an issue with the California smog check and clearing the codes to allow the test to perform. The EVAP and CCM won't clear, so for the last 2 tests I have had to take it to a dealer 100 miles away to clear one code, and have it smogged at a cost of over $400 each time. I bought an ODB-II reader to help, but it just verifies that the code isn't cleared. I tried the EVAP drive cycle (that I got online) 4 different times and couldn't get it to clear, driving 90 minutes each time over miles of CA freeways, and even being stopped by a Highway Patrol while doing it!!! When he saw all the electronics in the front seat, I think he knew to move on.
I think the dealer cleared the CCM code and not the EVAP code since he only drove it 20 miles and was done in 90 minutes. Does anybody know the drive cycle steps and tricks of the trade to clear the CCM code? Or is their one drive cycle that clears them all in one fell swoop? All the others are fine. Tough to do this when I only put 500-1,000 miles/year on it.
Last edited by scottjh9; Dec 26, 2018 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Addition
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Welcome to Jaguar Forums brucefal,
Good to have you with us.
Enjoy the forum.
If you haven't done so already you should add your car details to your signature to help others to help you.
If you need help with getting around and using the forum follow this link for some help Forum Help
Good to have you with us.
Enjoy the forum.
If you haven't done so already you should add your car details to your signature to help others to help you.
If you need help with getting around and using the forum follow this link for some help Forum Help
To be honest when I have to clear a ccm code....I am assuming this is for the converter...I do about 6 to 8 full throttle stomps at varying speeds after I put in a bottle of cataclean...great stuff found at most auto parts store...heat is what gets them to set right.....and welcome to the forum..i am in central CA....if I am wrong about the ccm acronym...give me a correctional slap in the face
Thanks!
Graham-
Thanks for moving the post. It's appreciated. I was really lost trying to find where I enter the "Hello" section, and finally I found a submit buttion somewhere, so, off it went!
Thanks for being a moderator.
Bruce
Thanks for moving the post. It's appreciated. I was really lost trying to find where I enter the "Hello" section, and finally I found a submit buttion somewhere, so, off it went!
Thanks for being a moderator.
Bruce
I see you are still battling this one.
Here's the DRIVE CYCLE to carry out EPA diagnostics on ALL systems. The big problem is usually finding a suitable stretch of road. The DRIVE CYCLE can be completed in approximately 15 – 20 minutes and is performed in the following 8 stages:
1. Cold Start
To qualify as a “cold start” the engine coolant temperature must be below 30°C and within 6°C of ambient air temperature. Don’t leave the ignition key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic test may not run.
2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner and heated rear screen ON. The heavier electrical load the better as this will test the O2 Heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and (if closed loop is achieved) Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate
Turn off the AC and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Maintain Steady Speed
Maintain a steady speed of 55mph for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate
Lift off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift gear selector or touch the brakes. It’s important to let the vehicle coast, gradually slowing down to 20 mph. During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle to 55-60mph. This will perform the same diagnostics as in stage 3 above.
7. Maintain Steady Speed
Maintain a steady speed of 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in stage 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed.
8. Decelerate
This performs the same diagnostics as in stage 5. Again, don't shift the gear selector or touch the brakes.
(If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it can take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.)
Clearing codes puts you right back to the beginning.
Graham
Last edited by GGG; Dec 28, 2018 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Correct "cold start" temperature
Graham-
Thanks. I have been scouring the Jag info and just am working on downloading the JTIS, as Jag had a reference to "refer to the DTC section of the JTIS", hoping that it would have the detailed steps that will work. The one I had before didn't work, and I was thinking that some steps about the acceleration may have befuddled me.
One question on this one, step one, Cold Start...how can the coolant temperature be "below 0 C and within 6 C of ambient", if the ambient air temp is 25 C? 0 C is freezing, so how can I have the coolant at a below freezing temperature and at the same time be within 6 C of the 25 C outside temperature? I am sure I am nit picking the words, but does this really mean that you just want the coolant temp to be " ambient temperature +/- 6 C"?
Thanks,
Bruce
Thanks. I have been scouring the Jag info and just am working on downloading the JTIS, as Jag had a reference to "refer to the DTC section of the JTIS", hoping that it would have the detailed steps that will work. The one I had before didn't work, and I was thinking that some steps about the acceleration may have befuddled me.
One question on this one, step one, Cold Start...how can the coolant temperature be "below 0 C and within 6 C of ambient", if the ambient air temp is 25 C? 0 C is freezing, so how can I have the coolant at a below freezing temperature and at the same time be within 6 C of the 25 C outside temperature? I am sure I am nit picking the words, but does this really mean that you just want the coolant temp to be " ambient temperature +/- 6 C"?
Thanks,
Bruce


















