Hi there, just recently purchased an '05 STR with 85,000 km (approx. 53k miles).
Looking to do an oil change and I see that there are various opinions on oil use. I see that people recommend the use of Mobil1 0W30 or Castrol Syntec 0W30. Would either one of these oils work ok in this vehicle? I know the manual suggests 5W30 so I assume that going down to 0W30 shouldn't cause any issues?
Thanks,
Adam
Looking to do an oil change and I see that there are various opinions on oil use. I see that people recommend the use of Mobil1 0W30 or Castrol Syntec 0W30. Would either one of these oils work ok in this vehicle? I know the manual suggests 5W30 so I assume that going down to 0W30 shouldn't cause any issues?
Thanks,
Adam
Senior Member
To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!
1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)
2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)
3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)
4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and you should treat this with some scepticism
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
THE BASICS
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.
VISCOSITY
Most oils on the shelves today are ?Multigrades?, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the ?W? number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.
There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d?Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.
So 0W30 the 0 means thinner at low temperature, you can take your choice I personally always use the manufacturers recommendations.
1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)
2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)
3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)
4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and you should treat this with some scepticism
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
THE BASICS
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.
VISCOSITY
Most oils on the shelves today are ?Multigrades?, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the ?W? number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.
There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d?Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.
So 0W30 the 0 means thinner at low temperature, you can take your choice I personally always use the manufacturers recommendations.
Mikey

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If you do a search you'll find that 'oil grades- which one is best' and 'synthetic vs. dino oils' are probably the most debated subjects here followed by a similar discussion about air filters.
There is no hard evidence that proves one is any better than the other so it's all rather futile. There will never be consensus. Use whatever is recommended in the owners manual AND makes you happy.
There is no hard evidence that proves one is any better than the other so it's all rather futile. There will never be consensus. Use whatever is recommended in the owners manual AND makes you happy.
Senior Member
Welcome to the forum, enjoy your new ride. I am an ex Torontonian (huge Leaf fan still)
Avoid topics such as oil, gas and filters, really no right or wrong answers just opinions. Follow the hand book and you won't do no wrong according to Jag.
Now for a serious question do you prefer Sleeman's or Canadian ?
Avoid topics such as oil, gas and filters, really no right or wrong answers just opinions. Follow the hand book and you won't do no wrong according to Jag.
Now for a serious question do you prefer Sleeman's or Canadian ?
Norri

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Welcome to the forum,
You will find all the info you can digest on oil in the tech threads, please do NOT start an oil discussion here.
You will find all the info you can digest on oil in the tech threads, please do NOT start an oil discussion here.
Norri

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I worked for a while next to the Moosehead brewery in St John NB so that would be my pick. 



