as the title says, its been parked for 4 years. (2003 S Type R supercharge)
not winterizing or anything.
No precautions made not even unpluged the battery.
& I want to run it now.

what should I do? (changing liquids, oils, battery...etc) ???

took it to the nearest dealer & they came up with a long list trying to charge me more than $3500$ & one of the things in that list that it needs 2 new fuel pumps. I was wondering,

would a long time stop lead to a damage to the fuel pump?

 

First thing before trying to crank it over would to remove the spark plugs and squirt some penetrating oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a while.

You should change the oil because its been sitting so long and there is a possibility that the oil settled and that there are parts which are no longer lubed.

I would also drain the coolant and replace it because the car has been sitting for so long - the coolant has probably separated from the water.

 

Dont forget to drain the gas tank and add new gas. Stored gas only last so long, to try to turn it on with gas from 4 years ago would damage the injectors and fuel pump (as your dealer quoted you in price).

Diffinately lube the internals by unplugging the spark plugs and spraying them. Might want to try manually turning the engine a couple of times by a big socket and wrench with a cheater pipe connected to the lower pulley. This will manually lube /prime the engine with out forcing it and breaking something in the process. Take your time, and dont rush cuz it might be more expensive to fix.

Replace oils, all fluids, new filters, and give th spark plugs a cleaning, i would even buy new one's. Also watch out for flat spots on the tires, they might need to be replaced.

 

All things are great thigns to start with.....fuel pumps should not need to be replaced.....fuel filter yea.....

Modern cars hold up better over time than older cars....give it a fresh tune up and new fluids, fuel....and you should be good to go....So why was it parked for 4 yrs anyways?

 

Chances are that at least the EPB (the park brake - it's the smaller caliper on the rear rotors) is ON and will be less than keen to retract.

The other brakes may have rusted on but they may not have. You should replace the brake fluid, but that will NOT help with the EPB as it is electrically operated. Come back about this when you've changed the various fluids but BEFORE you connect a new battery.

It's worth checking the spark plugs but I think you'll find they don't need cleaning. However, adding a small amount of oil to each bore as people have suggested and turning the engine over if you can sound good.

Don't rush, not least because other people may take a few days to see this thread and post their ideas.

It's a potentially lovely car so worth rescuing.

 

AG3Mase,
Personally I think $3,500.00 is peanuts to pay. They are going to make sure your beastie is roadworthy properly without taking any shortcuts. Giving you peace of mind is worth that alone! Then you have the guarantee that it was done correctly with a warranty too.

Just my $0.02 worth

 

After spending 10 minutes going thru' the nonsense of having to revitalize my password to this site (for what pray?), here's my contribution to helping with your storage prob.
Petrol changes if it's left about for a long time. In carburettors it went to a jelly, the car won't start. In a petrol injection system, I'd take out the injectors and get them cleaned. It's a good idea to blow out the petrol pipelines so you can get neat petrol coming up to the injectors. Provided the valves are operating (i.e. the cambelt hasn't ruptured -- unlikely) all you need to start are petrol and sparks. Even then some engines can be devlish obstinate. A thimbleful of petrol poured down each sparkplug hole helps if sparks are good. A trick for checking sparks during cranking used to be by holding off the connector to a spark plug just a couple of mm or so and listen for the clicking noise. Make sure the connector is dry, otherwise you'll get a belt from the highvoltage! But my petrol Jag had a little spark coil on top of each plug, so I don't know if you can do it on this design. By all means spray a little WD40 down each plug hole, but I doubt if the friction would harm anything. Most bores are oil-glazed anyhow.
Leedsman.

 

Forgot -- my mechanic would charge me something like £100 for the job you mentioned. $3500? Get outta here!

 

hi mate .what a load of rubbish thats been posted


.in the old days it was easy just change the oil/filter/drain the tank flush out the fuel lines . take out the spark plugs turn over the engine till you get oil pressure put the plugs back in then fire it up .....now it's a different story turning over the engine without the spark plug in and you stand a good chance of damaging you coil /injector it's charging the pack but the spark got now where to go .trust me i've done it .i know it sound silly but either pay the $ or take the risk


where's the cambelt on a str or any jaguar v8



opps it's a chain

 

Are they guaranteeing it will be OK and that $3500 is the limit (including parts)?

What sort of weather do you have (don't know where you are)? The extremes of heat and ice/damp need taking into account.

As said, chains. Also two belts: main one and one for the supercharger. Better inspect or change them.

The aircon could be a hassle. They need to be used or the seals tend to leak AND the compressor is liable to seize. (Let's overlook the DCCV for now.)

 

Per Riski, what's the story behind the four years off the road?

My twopence of input is drain the fuel tank and fill with fresh; petrol has a max life span of six months before it starts the trip south. Replace the battery, these cars are hard on the battery. Low voltage issues will start a parade of issues, error codes ending invariably with tears before bed time.

New tyres should be high on the list also.

 

thank you all for the valuable info
to give you more info, the car is located in a very hot are you can say. Saudi Arabia
the story of the 4 years started this way.
the problem started when a yellow light started blinking in the dashboard with the word "Restricted Performance" when the car goes into this mode, you can't go fast or give it full throttle, & it shifts when RPM reaches 3k in it doesn't pass that like there's a cutting in fuel. when I used to take it to the dealer that time they kept telling me it's the fuel & it's dirty. so they use something I don't know what it was. like a cleaner. anyway. the problem used show & go for a while untill it developed & changed to something major. when I step on the gas normally. it runs smoothly. but when I go full throttle. it starts cutting fuel and you can notice the disorder the RPM not going smoothly like I'm steping on the gas one time & on the brake another time.
then took it to the dealer & they ent to the cleaner again. but with no progress. & thats when my big problem started. it took the dealer more than 15 months to figure out the real issue. it's the worst Jag dealer you can ever see.
can some one tell me what could that be?
to be honest with you I didn't see the full report. but all I know that they have changed something in the exhaust or something related to, not sure.
I will keep you updated guys, thanks again

 

Huh. Perhaps you may want to look at another car? Either that or find another dealer.....you should ask to see what codes were thrown and compare them to see where the problem might really be.

 

You could buy an OBD scanner and read the codes yourself then post them here. Drive the car as little as you can and treat it gently because that light is a serious warning - read the handbook.

The dealer is clearly useless so find a good one. May be hard where you are but you're going to ruin the car at this rate.

 

What he said..

JagV8 and others took the words out of my mouth..Get the codes, the dealer should have read those. Funny thing is moisture causes a lot of issues with with these cars but in your case a desert environment kind of rules that out. Now, the drivability issue you talked about is probably a symptom of what's wrong and not triggered by the car's computer. The fact that it drives normally unless full throttle is called would lead me to believe it is a fuel delivery issue. It could also be confused sensors. Like others have said...Don't drive it! If it is not running properly, just driving it normally, even if it feels OK, can still cause damage.

 

Jeff, Yo DO realize that with the Engineering Test Mode we brought up in the other thread, all these cars have a built in code READER.. We can't clear codes, but you Don't even need a scanner to get to them.

Just scroll through till you see the DTC's.

George

 

How do you get to this mode?

 

The codes displayed in ETM appear to be only the codes known by the ICM so you could have all manner of issues which you could overlook.

hmm, wonder if WinterJag can see his P1474 there? (would be reported as 1474)

 

Just saw this thread, you know, it is possible my P1474 is there. I have used ETM but didn't know what the DTC's were exactly. Most had to do with the display and communication between the nav and such (I had a few but that is because I have retrofitted nav so my car thinks some things aren't right! But they are.). I don't have my MIL on right now, just RP, but my thrid or fourth OBD II cycle will be today, so that will go away if everything is okay again, if the problem comes back again before RP clears, I shouldl have the MIL on (its a 2 fault code) and then I'll see if its in the ETM DTC's. Actually, I do remember seeing a 1474 when I used ETM when this problem first appeared and the MIL was on. Maybe your code will be there. It's worth a check! Easy and free, the best kind of thing!

 

Yes I knew that...My comment was more directed at the OP getting the codes from the dealer service department. Even if it was four years ago it should still be in their system. I'll still keep my scanner, just since the user interface is so much easier. Oh boy, look what you guys started.....