2.7D Timing Belt - Necessary to replace Oil Pump at same time?
Hi all,
I'm changing the timing belt on my 2006 X200 2.7 TDV6 with 220,000KM on the clock. I have no idea of the history of the car but looking at the belt and rollers I would say it has been changed at some point. The belt and rollers look okay, but the tensioner notch is out of alignment by about 15mm, and one of the cam sprockets isn't quite sync'd in its slot it runs well nevertheless,
After reading of horror stories of Disco3 TDV6s destroying themselves after the non-reinforced lug on oil pump broke off I had resolved to first check it wasn't the new type pump (it isnt) and the change it as it looked straightforward.
I guess it is straightforward on a Land Rover as the 4 bolts on base of pump are accessible from under the engine. Unfortunately the 4 bolts on an X200 are in the sump...which is sitting on the subframe and according to the JLR Service manual it says the first job is to remove the Oil Pan Extension and in order to do that you have to remove the Automatic Transmission!
Due to the massive amount of extra work I thought I'd better do a little more research, and it seems with Land Rovers it's an absolute must-do (perhaps due to the weight/towing strain?) but with Jags it not so cut and dried.
I found on another forum one post with someone saying change it (although with a link to the LR procedure which is a breeze compared to the Jag) and someone else saying their dealer said no one has ever heard of the lug failure happening to a Jag and its exclusively a Disco 2007 problem.
So what have you lot done at timing belt time? Just changed the belt or replaced the pump too?
Has anyone here actually replaced an oil pump on an S-Type 2.7D?
I'm changing the timing belt on my 2006 X200 2.7 TDV6 with 220,000KM on the clock. I have no idea of the history of the car but looking at the belt and rollers I would say it has been changed at some point. The belt and rollers look okay, but the tensioner notch is out of alignment by about 15mm, and one of the cam sprockets isn't quite sync'd in its slot it runs well nevertheless,
After reading of horror stories of Disco3 TDV6s destroying themselves after the non-reinforced lug on oil pump broke off I had resolved to first check it wasn't the new type pump (it isnt) and the change it as it looked straightforward.
I guess it is straightforward on a Land Rover as the 4 bolts on base of pump are accessible from under the engine. Unfortunately the 4 bolts on an X200 are in the sump...which is sitting on the subframe and according to the JLR Service manual it says the first job is to remove the Oil Pan Extension and in order to do that you have to remove the Automatic Transmission!
Due to the massive amount of extra work I thought I'd better do a little more research, and it seems with Land Rovers it's an absolute must-do (perhaps due to the weight/towing strain?) but with Jags it not so cut and dried.
I found on another forum one post with someone saying change it (although with a link to the LR procedure which is a breeze compared to the Jag) and someone else saying their dealer said no one has ever heard of the lug failure happening to a Jag and its exclusively a Disco 2007 problem.
So what have you lot done at timing belt time? Just changed the belt or replaced the pump too?
Has anyone here actually replaced an oil pump on an S-Type 2.7D?
Never done it. Never seen it recommended. Never heard of it here on JF nor on the Ford Forums regarding the TDV6 Territory. That spans some 15 yrs on the 2.7L and 3.0L TTD S-Types and XJ, 13 years on JF and more recently on the Ford Territory forums.
In fact, until raised by our OP, neither have any of my old Jaguar mates whom I contacted when I read this thread.
Of course, individual owners will act according to whatever gives them peace of mind, but let's not perpetuate that this is a know failure issue, It's not. Compared to the poorly engineered and epic failures surrounding the plastic coolant outlet fitting, thousands of posts here of low or flat battery voltage issues, DCCV failures and messages of DOOM that result from a LOW WASHER FLUID LEVEL (YIKES!) this is not on my radar. However, I will consider it again should a conrod appear out the side of the engine,
On a serious bent, can you imagine the scale of work required for an "engine out; sump off" just to get access to the oil pump? I swear these engines were shoe-horned in and the front end built around them. Just working on the plumbing that lies between engine and radiator is a challenge. Trust your mechanics' advice. Like them, I would need a power of convincing.
Cheers and best wishes,

In fact, until raised by our OP, neither have any of my old Jaguar mates whom I contacted when I read this thread.
Of course, individual owners will act according to whatever gives them peace of mind, but let's not perpetuate that this is a know failure issue, It's not. Compared to the poorly engineered and epic failures surrounding the plastic coolant outlet fitting, thousands of posts here of low or flat battery voltage issues, DCCV failures and messages of DOOM that result from a LOW WASHER FLUID LEVEL (YIKES!) this is not on my radar. However, I will consider it again should a conrod appear out the side of the engine,
On a serious bent, can you imagine the scale of work required for an "engine out; sump off" just to get access to the oil pump? I swear these engines were shoe-horned in and the front end built around them. Just working on the plumbing that lies between engine and radiator is a challenge. Trust your mechanics' advice. Like them, I would need a power of convincing.
Cheers and best wishes,
Thanks a lot for your input guys.
I think I will leave it then, it seems to be big problem with Disco3s but like Ken, I haven't yet found an S-Type confirmed case.
Good idea about checking what the Ford or PSA situation is, never occurred to me as I was too focused on Land Rover, and If it was as easy to change as on a Land Rover I would do it.
It gets better than that, in order to get the sump off you got to raise the engine, and in order to do that you have to remove the transmission! .... I'll leave well alone.
Thanks again for your valuable input guys, I'll crack on with the belts now
I think I will leave it then, it seems to be big problem with Disco3s but like Ken, I haven't yet found an S-Type confirmed case.
Good idea about checking what the Ford or PSA situation is, never occurred to me as I was too focused on Land Rover, and If it was as easy to change as on a Land Rover I would do it.
On a serious bent, can you imagine the scale of work required for an "engine out; sump off" just to get access to the oil pump?
Thanks again for your valuable input guys, I'll crack on with the belts now

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