Hello,

I recently purchased an approved used 2016 Jaguar XJ R-Sport (3.0 Diesel) with 22,000 miles. Upon reviewing the service history on the portal (osh.jaguar.com), I found the most recent entries as follows:

Job Date: 28/03/2024
Odometer: 22,236 miles
Details: Service Completed: New/Used Preparation For Sale
Other Related Items
Job Date: 26/07/2023
Odometer: 20,374 miles

Details: Service Completed: 96,000 miles / 72 months service
Other Related Items
Renewal of Oil and Oil Filter
Electronic Vehicle Health Check (eVHC)

Please excuse my lack of knowledge, as this is my first Jaguar and diesel vehicle.

The car currently has 28,000 miles, and according to the service portal, the 112,000 miles / 84 months major service (including timing belt replacement) is due.
I have been quoted £1,840 including VAT by the main dealer for this service. However, when I consulted with an independent specialist, they advised that it’s unnecessary to replace the timing belt at the current mileage. Instead, they suggested opting for a regular full service, which would cost £405 including VAT. What would be the best course of action?

Lastly, the in-car service menu indicates that the next oil service is due in 2,800 miles. The oil level is currently above the mid-section and shows as "OK". Should I proceed with an oil change before my scheduled full service on 11/09/2024, or would that be unnecessary since the oil will be changed during the service anyway?

Your advice and input are highly appreciated.

Thank you.

 

MrXJ24, as for the belt, this is a really loaded question. I would say to give the belt a good once over to see if the belt is cracking or showing signs of excessive wear. You see cracking or wear, then I would replace the belt. But, if it looks fairly new and in good condition, then I would let it run. THe problem is, a belt can go at any moment. What is the issue if the belt breaks and parts of the car stop turning. Are you going to have valves hit pistons? That would lead to a fairly expensive repair. The safe course of action is to get the belt replaced (I know, not the words you want to hear). But, having the belt fail and causing a lot more expensive repair possibly, that would be a hard pill to swallow..

 

MrXJ24:
Welcome to forum and congratulations for your new XJ.
I have 2010 XJ with 3.0 Diesel too. Been driven it up to 320t km (200t miles)

As the timing belt strenght comes from internal fabric and rubber surface is only mechanic cover for the fabric, its impossible to say by visual is the belt going to brake or not. The belt is in constant stress by the tensioner, and this is the reason why belt manufacturer(s) (Note: not an engine manufacturer) set the safety time for change regarless of how much its been rotated / driven.
If you like to get cheaper offer for the work, you can go any garage who have experiense of PSA (Citroen / Peugeot) vehicles. Same AJD-V6 / TDV6 / DT17 / DT20 engine, made by Ford, are used on PSA vehicles with much higher volumes than JLR. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17
Only difference are that on XJ the work is much easyer and faster, because engine is mounted longitude, instead of front wheel driven PSA:s, so there are HUGE much more space to work on. (there are lot of videos on youtube for AJD-V6/TDV6/DT17/DT20 belt change)
I have done belt change myself. Its about 4.5hour job. Parts are well available as a kits with new rollers/tensioner from exsample Gates.
6mm drill bits can be used as camshaft timing pins, but flywheel need an timing tool. (timing kits available from ebay: You need to purchase 3.0l timing kit for JLR. There are some differences in flywheels)
Waterpump is not needed to be changed in same time. Its runned by auxilary belt, not timing belt. (i stll have original waterpump)

There are another short belt in back of the engine for high pressure fuel pump, if added for the job its about 1--1.5 hour more. (on 3.0litre the pump have to be timed. 2.7litre version not need to be timed)

Yes, if the timing belt fails the change are 97.9% that some of the valves will kiss the pistons for goodbye on AJD-V6 diesel engine. There are not much tolerances.
If the high pressure pump belt fails nothing else happens than engine will stop.

And finally: Always use only low ash C1 engine oil. The engine is very tight packgage with twin turbos right on sides of the engine. When you stop the heads will heat up quite much and been seen non approved oils cooking to the sludge. (plus there are plastic parts what can start detoriate by non approved oils)
Don´t believe long life service interval. Change your engine oils on half way of service interval. Diesel engines have DPF what needed to be burned from soot time to time. The burning is made by post combusting fuel injection and with this small amount of fuel will stick to the cylinder walls and enter to the engine oil. This is called Oil Dillution. On EURO 6 engine (2016-> ) the burning process is much longer than EURO 5 (<-2016) and Oil dillution happens even more 2016 and newer engines.
Dilluted engine oil loses its ability to lubricate and keep up the oil pressure. This can cause permanent wear or even main bearing failures.

Oil change is very easy DIY job. No need to go under vehicle, because engine have an sucking tube. (exsample Lidl sell electric oil extractor for just for ~20€)
Oil filter is located in middle of engine. 32mm(or 34mm?) socket is needed for that. (Check note from Diesel variations of this forum for important note for oil filter change)