I am attempting to remove the alternator from a 2000 4.0 V8 and I've hit a few snags. I have removed the nut from the lower retaining bolt (the long one that passes through the bottom of the alternator and secures it to the alternator mounting bracket) but the bolt itself will not budge. I cannot rotate it even with an impact gun. The accessory belt is off so it is not a source of tension on the alternator.

What's the secret with this bolt? The head is starting to round off.

Using a mirror and some fingers, I've located a bolt at the top of the alternator that faces the back of the car. I cannot determine if this is a bolt that holds the case halves of the alternator together or if it is another mounting bolt. My guess is that it's a 10mm. Does anyone know?

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on removing this thing? The electrical connections are already unplugged/unbolted.

Thanks!
Ian

 

Did anyone ever answer? I'm stuck on that bolt also.

 

I would refer to JTIS Manual for removal steps.

 

I didn't join a forum to be told to go somewhere else to get the information...it's a REAL bummer...

 

You DO realize that your comment above applies to someone else's post from 2012, right...?

 

Some of these bolts stay stuck a looooooooooooooooooooong time.

 

JayJagJay,

abonano's advice, given in 2012, refers to the Jaguar Technician Information System, which is the digital dealership Workshop Manual and available to download from this forum and install on your own computer. Suggesting that a fellow member consult the Jaguar documentation is often the best advice that can be given, since JTIS is the highest authority on service procedures.

It's always difficult to deal with members who can't be bothered to consult the factory documentation themselves, but instead insist that other forum members should take time away from their day to look up the information and post it for the member who can't be bothered. Sometimes our members are willing to do that, but as Poor Richard said, "God helps those who help themselves."

Cheers,

Don

 

You've got 2369 posts and then post THAT!

Be grateful a moderator didn't ban you...

 

Well, you can always pay to get the information you seek. Thanks for resurrecting my response from 8 years ago too... (that was given to someone else)

Carry on...

 

So, for getting that bolt out.. similar experience with my 2001 with 149K miles. In order to reach it I pulled the rad fan assy and used Kroil on the threaded end of the bolts behind the alt.

Surely it was a pain, but in the end with patience I worked through it. If I recall one bolt has a welded nut and the other doesn't. Its been a few months so I don't remember the exact sizes, but they are standard metric. The one you are looking for the size on...well, it could have been an 8mm or 9mm. I used standard box end since the larger heads of the gear drive wrenches wouldn't fit.

Soaking is the best alternative. If you don't have Kroil, go with Blaster Penetrating Oil, or Rust Buster...and let it sit at least 30 minutes, overnight is better.

Note: These thoughts and experience are worth what you paid for them I've found this forum to be fantastically helpful! I'm always ready to help with something I know enough about not to botch the job, and thankfully take in the assistance when some jewel takes their very valuable time to help me out. Thanks to all!

 

Ummm, I DO read, yes. Have been able to for a long long time - sheeeesh, I'm getting old.

Same things happening then, happening today. Toooooo often. Sucks then, sucks now.

Sorry, I say how I feel about things... Always have.

There is NOTHING worse than being in the middle, needing REAL help, under a car near literally, and being given research to do instead of an answer by an individual who has the answers. Jus say'n

​​​​

 

I sure hope that the original poster is still not under the car waiting for the bolt to move!

10 years is an AWFULLY LONG TIME to get an answer on a forum!

 

Hahahaha 😆 yes it is...
But the point,,, the forum is like an archive of sorts and in looking for a needed answer at the time,,, I WAS under the car... Had to skip this thread and go find something else... Seems the OP might have, as well...?

When a link is posted that way, for me, personally, I feel like the person offering it doesn't see my question as important, or worth the time. Or dumb.

My point is just to float the idea, after all...

 

We'll never know as the OP couldn't be bothered to post any updates. Just wanted to freeload I suppose.

And yet that person put effort in to find the link, which presumably you couldn't find.

Seems that to a large extent links are one of the most useful things on the internet rather than endless reposting of variations but clearly YMMV.

 

So did you get the bolt out?

 

And more importantly, don’t forget to post an update of exactly how you did it, with pictures. That way, when the next guy runs into the same problem, we can share a link to this thread.

 

Your word choice is pretty poor. To freeload would indicate that I somehow took advantage of someone else's generosity and didn't offer anything in return. I don't recall receiving any generous advice other than reading the JTIS which I had already done. I was looking for real world advice, not the perfect world scenario where frozen bolts don't exist found in a shop manual. I didn't get that and that's ok.

I didn't think my outcome was worth posting about. If I recall correctly the bolt broke and I used an air chisel to cut the alternator bracket. I didn't get much further than that. The car belonged to ex in-laws who wanted to sell it for a quick buck. It was sold as-is. It's a bit harsh to assume I couldn't be bothered following up on the forum. I had a lot going on at the time and didn't feel that my frustrating experience would have helped anyone.

Ian

 

Hey, better late than never!

Others would not necessarily have been able to guess at what might turn out to be needed. E.g. if I needed to do something similar I couldn't, for want of the tool.

 

I did, thanks for asking... What I found to help was undoing the small bracket/clamp that bolts into the RH frame work, holding 3 aluminum tubes,,, HVAC stuff I think. Then, still, there wasn't enough room to break the bolt and get leverage... Then, I noticed there was a plastic cover (coming from the bottom on the RH side in the fender well) when looking from under the car. Was able to prize that off, the plastic clips, that didn't help much either, space was to small. Then, from underneath completely. Got a 3/8th in ratchet and 10mm socket on it with extension and it was a matter of the slow and painful 1/8 of a turn on the bolt til oft, which fought back the entire way. No amount of PB Blaster helped that. Still don't know why that bolt had so much pre-load-interference in the thread. Then it was done.

I'm removing the engine from this car and placing a "new" one. I considered just snipping the oil temp and oil pressure wiring rather than remove the alt and plate to get the harness out in tact. I guess I took the long way. Same issue with the AC/PSteering wiring and set up on the other...

Anyways, I stand by what I said before... If we (2, 3 or 4 men standing around talking about wrenching) were standing together and talking about the difference between links and a good ol fashioned explanation,,,, you might not have heard it the same way. It was and is,,,, just a guy (me) talking. I don't know what the big deal is. I didn't mean to get folks all upset.

 

No worries. I didnt take offense...

I sold my 00 S Type 4.0 about 5 or 6 years ago at 256K miles. Rebuilt trans and I did the timing chains and tensioners not once but twice to get the 4th gen tensioners in there.

The car is still going. I see it from time to time. It has that infamous suspension squeak...lol

Appreciate the follow up. During my ownership I kept a spare OEM alternator on the shelf. After reading glad I never had to endure that challenge. If I did though I would've followed the JTIS procedures, hence my original reply from yesteryear...