I can't find coolant temp sensor 2000 Jag S type 3.0

 

I think that's the one known as ECT but is faked from CHT on that engine.

It'll be detailed in the workshop manual - free download - or there may be threads with details.

 

Page 40 of the Technical Guide
Jaguar S-TYPE
Sports Sedan
Powertrain
Introduction (Jaguar Publication S-Type POWERTRAIN_JJM101517-92.pdf)

States the following....

Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) Sensor
The single CHT sensor is located between the two
rear coil-on-plug units in the bank 2 cylinder
head. The sensor directly monitors the metal
temperature of the cylinder head. This method of
engine heat sensing is used in place of a
conventional coolant temperature sensor to
enable the fail safe cooling strategy to operate.
The use of a metal temperature sensor allows
cylinder head temperature to be measured even if
coolant has been lost unlike an ECT sensor which
would produce inaccurate temperature
indications, eg measuring steam temperature.

Fail Safe Cooling System
A unique feature of the V6 engine is the use of a fail safe cooling strategy, controlled by the EMS, in the
event of coolant loss leading to rising engine temperatures. The principle of the strategy involves
switching off one or more fuel injectors to inhibit combustion and reduce heat, thus allowing the flow of
ambient intake air to further cool the selected cylinders. By cycling the selected cylinders, ie switching
different injectors off for a period and in a sequence determined by EMS parameters, overall engine
temperature can be controlled sufficiently to allow the vehicle to be driven, at reduced power, for a
short distance. Throughout the malfunction period, instrument panel messages and warnings advise the
driver of the current status of the cooling system as described below.
Driver Indication and EMS Action
The fail safe strategy moves though different stages depending on engine temperature:
¥ Temperatures below 122û C (250û F) are within the normal range. At high temperatures below this
level the temperature gauge pointer enters the red zone.
¥ If the temperature rises to between 122û C - 127û C (250û F to 260û F) no action is taken by the EMS
which affects engine running but the following indications appear:
Temperature gauge pointer in red zone
Message Centre HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE
Warning light TEMP
Priority light red
Audible indicator single chime sounded
¥ If the temperature rises to 127û C (260û F) or above, the fail safe strategy operates. At 127û C (260û F),
the EMS will cut out one cylinder (the selected cylinder is varied) and as the temperature continues
to rise, this will increase to a maximum of three cylinders cut (with cylinder cycling). The following
indications are given:
Temperature gauge pointer in red zone
Message Centre ENGINE POWER REDUCED
Warning light TEMP
Priority light red
Audible indicator three chimes sounded
¥ At 166û C (300û F) or above, the fail safe strategy continues as described but the following
indications are given:
Temperature gauge pointer in red zone
Message Centre PULL OFF ROAD SAFELY alternates with TURN OFF IGNITION
Warning light TEMP flashes
Priority light red
Audible indicator five chimes sounded
¥ EMS shuts the engine down.

bob

 

And I doubt you ever will...

There is no coolant temp sensor on the early V6 models. There is a Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor instead. It reads the temperature of the head itself, not the coolant.

It is located between the #4 and #6 coils, on the US driver's side. Access is very easy. More details here:


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rature-186873/

 

Thanks for the info on CHT The local parts store sold me a sensor probably for later models and was adamant this car used one like that. I have already found and removed the CHT. Thanks to every one

 

What symptoms are you having? I'm assuming (Danger! Danger!) the temperature is running a little high? If so, please make sure to read about my experience in the thread linked above. Remember, you've got the deliberately misleading dash gauge, and then I bought a bad thermostat and a bad CHT sensor, too. At the very minimum, test the resistance of the new sensor against the chart. If you suspect the thermostat, test the new one in a pot of hot water before installation. Hopefully that will save you some grief.