I have a 2000 stype, 3.0, 145000k, cranks but won't start. I have spark at the plugs, air intake ok, fuel pump fuse ok, swapped out relay in boot fuse box, put in new fuel filter (old one not too bad), get fuel out of valve on top front of engine. have voltage at fuel pump although car outside and difficult to hear a 2 second whoose when key is turned to on position. No warning to problem, wife just went to go to work and car sputtered once and then just cranks. (yeh, the tank is 3/4 full). any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I know that you see fuel at the Schrader valve but what kind of pressure do you have? Also check the shifter in “P” and if that does not work put it in “N” and give it a try. I will attach a few link that might help you.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I hope this helps.

 

Gus, thank you for the leads, I'll check them out. I do no know what the pressure is at the valve; light flow comes out when I depress needle. I tried starting in neutral, think it coughed once and then just cranked. Put it into park and retried, just cranked. The car is outside and the weather is drizzling but I'm pretty positive I smelled gas by exhaust when I got out and dodoged back to the house. I will check out your links now.

 

Check the inertia switch under the driver's side dashboard near the driver's side door - make sure that button is depressed. Also, make sure the fuel filter was installed correctly (arrow pointing in right direction) Fuel pressure should be at 40 - 50 PSI at Schrader valve - dribbling or light flow is not indicitive of what you should have - it should essentially spray out when you depress the schrader valve (not recommended though) - best bet - hook up a fuel pressure gauge and get that reading - anything under 40 PSI after the fuel pump prime is NOT good and would point towards the main fuel pump failing "life support" or DOA.

If you do find your fuel pump is the culpret - change both the pump and sender pump. Just my $0.02

 

If it has a light flow I would put my money on a fuel pump being the problem. You said that you had power to the pump so the inertia switch should be out of the question. In my area you can rent tools like a fuel pressure gauge from a few auto parts places see if you can get one and check it.

 

Thanks fellas, I did check inertia switch prior - fully depressed. I'll have to get a gauge and check pressure. I quickly checked out the pump for possble replacement. How does the greenish plastic ribbed nut come off. I assume it turns off but I couldn't do it by hand and a giant spanner isnt going to fit in there. Is there an instruction outline somewhere? For clarity, the pump is under passenger rear side and sender is drivers rear?

 

Sal16 - Yes, fuel pump under rear passenger and transfer pump under rear driver seat - if your mechanically inclined - this is not a very hard job to perform. I have replaced both the fuel pump and sender on my 00 S Type - if you need to do this job - PM me - I can give you pointers. As far as the fuel pump retaining ring - the OTC tool to remove the ring costs over $220.00 if you can find one - what I did was I made a white mark on the ring and a matching mark on the body of the vehicle near the pump.

I took a short peice of 2X4 wood and hammer and gently removed the fuel pump retainer ring. I was skeptical at first but picked that pointer up from a fellow Jag enthusiast and sure enough - it worked like a charm! The reason you mark the ring is when you put it back together you match up the mark on the fuel pump ring and the body and you know the ring is on sufficiently.

Also, change out the fuel pump assembly O-Ring that fits on top of the fuel and transfer pumps - about $8.00 each from any of the Jag supply centers - If your going new. Check out www.rockauto.com - If you intend on going used - check Ebay - I think I have a set both fuel/sender pumps I personally removed off of a 12K mile - 2000 Jag V8 with new socks installed. Gotta check in my storage shed to ensure I still have them.

I'm sure they're still there - I was thinking about keeping them for a rainy Jag day but may be interested in selling them to a fellow Jag forum member, who might need them before I do.

 

Abonano, thank you for tip. I was going to try the 2x4 assuming it was indeed a screw on cap but didn't want to get over zealous until I needed to. I will mark it, good tip. Having difficulty finding gas pressure gauge to rent anywhere. Advanced auto is more then happy to sell me one for $45 though. Checked out autorock, pump with strainers and what looks like new gaskits for $87. not bad. I'm hoping no special tools needed ( or 2x4 ) to change pump. I'm going to check with one car nut at work to see if he has pressure gauge today.

 

Sal16 - I know the in tank pump showing on rockauto's website is not very expensive but I would advise against taking your entire fuel pump assembly apart to change it out and I'm not 100% sure what issues you will come across once you dive into taking the assembly apart. If you decide to go that route - please keep us informed of your findings...

Your best bet if you don't want to spend the $$$ (yes, they are expensive) to replace the fuel pump assembly - go through Ebay and get a used assembly unit.

 

abonano, thank you for your input, most helpful. did not locate anyone with a fuel pressure gauge. Turned the key to let it crank for 10 seconds, then depressed the shrader valve with the head of a finish nail; it girgled out some fuel but by no means was it good pressure. alone so couldn't have someone crank for me. I checked ebay for assemblies; there seem to be an abundance of left hand drivers side units. need to do some more checking but working odd hours today and tomorow is slowing me down. Will keep you informed. Thanks again

 

Do you have a Harbor Freight Close by? Fuel Pressure Tester & Fuel Injection Pump Tester From what you are saying you lack fuel pressure but hesitate being positive without a pressure test.

 

Sal16 - if you cranked for 10 seconds and the fuel dribbled out - the fuel pump is DOA. I see your fairly local in CT - PM me as I do have both the fuel and sender pumps available if interested. Thanks - Anthony

 

Gus, thanks for the lead to harbor freight; we have one two towns from here.
Abonano, I would be interested in possibly getting your spare parts. Forgive me for not being up to date on computer talk but how do I PM you? I could just give you my email address or cell #, thanks, sal

 

Just click on his name in any post and a drop down box will appear, click on "send a private message to Abonano" and you are on your way.

 

Most Auto Parts stores have fuel pressure gauges that you can borrow for free. Try AutoZone and Advance.
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thanks norri and tbird6 for the tips. Our advanced auto and auto zone have ziltch.
I think I'm just going to change out the units and see what happens (if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, etc).

 

I hesitate saying it is because I am not the one checking. If you are comfortable with it go for it.

 

Hope you can post back with your results. Always very murky trying to diagnose cars remotely.
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Just thinking out loud here:

How about shooting a bit of starting fluid in the TB then starting, wouldn't that point to one of 2 things if she fires up? Well maybe 3, but I don't ever recall reading about a fuel regulator going bad on one of these engines here.

 

I already shot starter fluid in and it starts. Did that a couple of times just to make sure. Diagnosing the old cars was much easier; specially in your driveway.