While removing the passenger side valve cover, I barely hit the EGR tube and it cracked above the manifold. Can I bypass the EGR? The tube is no longer available from Jaguar. I would hate for this to be the end of my wife's Cat. She is in a depressed state, and I would like to cheer her up a bit.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Bypassing or deleting the EGR system is not a realistic option. There's a sensor that monitors the EGR valve by comparing pressure upstream and downstream. With the system deactivated and no proper feedback, you would have a continuous fault and the Check Engine light would be illuminated at all times. If you have emissions testing in your area, the car would not pass.

Are you talking about pipe #3 in this picture?:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

That is Jaguar #XR83306, superseded by XR815337. Although Jaguar no longer stocks either number, you might get lucky searching online for either number. Sometimes obsolete parts like this sit on a shelf for years, and then end up on places like eBay.

I found this thread on another forum, and the guy said he found one at a wrecking yard:

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/canr...3-0-l/377049/4


Another option, appealing to the cheapskate that I am, is to have your old tube repaired. There are shops that can fabricate all sorts of tubes and hoses, at quite reasonable cost. I've had several custom lines made for other vehicles. The damaged tube looks like an oversized brake line. I bet it would be fairly easy to repair what you have or fabricate an entire new one. Here's the outfit I've used, they have several locations around the country:

https://www.tubesnhoses.com/

 

Thank you for the response. I wish there was a way to repair it without having to remove it, but I guess not. I am not looking forward to getting the tube removed from the manifold. That is probably going to be an adventure in itself.

 

I was originally thinking that it could be brazed but that would mean removing the tube. Maybe this would be a location for JB weld?

 

JB Weld, high temperature hose, might work for a trip to a garage for me to have the proper work done. That would mean paying for someone to take the intake system back off to get to it I would think. I was hoping to be able to remove the EGR tube from the manifold to be able to have it braised, find one in the wild, or have someone reproduce it. At this point I am a little confused as to how I will accomplish that feat. The bolt is very awkward to get to. I have been hitting it with penetrating oil today and trying to see if there is any way that I could get to it with the tools that I have. So far, I am drawing a blank on that. It is so frustrating. I should have been putting this thing back together and on the road today if I had not touched that tube!

 

Please provide photos of the EGR tube layout so a workable solution can be suggested.

 

I believe from the photos above I need to remove the cabin filter assembly and maybe some other stuff to gain more direct access to the bolt.

 

It's difficult to tell from the photos where the EGR tube broke.

 

Is the tube cracked just above that large nut that attaches to the exhaust manifold? If you brought the tube to a welding shop, I bet it's a piece of cake to repair.

I think a metric crowsfoot wrench should be able to get in there. Here's one inexpensive set from HF:

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...-pc-68999.html

That set goes up to 19mm. Not sure what size you'd need, so shop for around "metric crowsfoot" until you find the size you need.

If a crowsfoot won't get in there, another option is to find an inexpensive open end wrench of the correct size. Bend it to fit by clamping in a vise and heating it red hot. I've got several "custom" wrenches in the bottom of my tool chest, used only one time but worth their weight in gold.

If not repairable, and you need to get a new one fabricated from scratch, I think there's a restrictor between those two smaller hoses in the middle of the tube. Check and see, and make sure to duplicate it with the replacement.

 

Yes, I have up to 22mm crows foot set and extension, thank you. I believe the 22mm will work but I think I need to remove the cabin filter box in order to get a proper angle on it. Been hitting it with PB Blaster for two days. Hope I don’t need a torch to heat it up to get it freed up. The crack is visible just above the bend in the pipe.

All this to replace the Cam Positioning Sensor!

 

Thanks for the information. I looked on the Tubes N Hoses site and found a company in my area that had their equipment. They are supposed to have me taken care of by the end of this week. Hopefully I can get to putting the wife's ride back together this weekend.