I own a 2001 Jaguar S-Type with 111000 miles and these past 2 days when i start up the car sometimes it works fine but other times i get the check engine light with a little message that says transmission fault and when i try to accelerate the car goes really slow at first but then it runs fine after about i hit 25 MPH.

My dad has one of those OBDII code readers and i got 6 of them which are posted below...Is it possible to pinpoint the exact problem by just looking at those codes?

P0743 - Torque Converter Clutch System Electrical Failure

P0755 - Shift Solenoid B Malfunction

P0760 - Shift Solenoid C Malfunction

P0797 - Pressure Control Solenoid C Stuck On

P1747 - Pressure Regulator 3 (Manufacturer specific)

P1789 - Ignition Supply Malfunction (Manufacturer specific)

P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)



I have done some research and i found out the 5R55N Tranny is not really reliable, Is this my problem? Thanks.

 

Elvis, you may be on the right track; transmission failure. She has 110k and the codes do suggest failure of solenoids, etc. If your still in love with her then it may be that time to bring her to a reputable trans. guy for a rebuild or you can trade her for a V8 "S". Let us know what's up.

 

Hi there. Before throwing money at expensive transmission repairs I would check the condition of you battery. It is not unknown for the S type to throw up all sorts of error codes because the battery is failing. This is what happened to mine. Once I fitted a new one all coded diasappeared!

 

I just wanted to add that this problem only happens when starting up the car never while driving, hope that helps somehow. I can try the battery, I'm going to be honest...i dont know how the previous owner took care of it.

I just put in a new air filter 2 days ago and was going to put a new fuel filter and do an oil change today but this started happening.

 

Battery is #1 suspect. In case you want to test it be aware that the VOLTAGE must not drop much during cranking but most tests are of (cranking) AMPS (and thus virtually useless).

 

The car runs slow up to 25 mph then picks up. Is this still indicative of battery failure?

 

Could easily be. Say low voltage has effectively triggered limp home or PCM re-learn or some such. But plenty of other (more expensive) faults it could be.

Could check minimum voltage during cranking and start at each module using a good volt-measuring device with ability to store the minimum found but who owns one of those?

 

I guess I under estimated the havoc a weak battery can cause with multiple and complex electrical circuits. Thanks for the info jagv8.

 

In a way I wish the whole lot would just shut down with "Change Battery" on display.

The battery may not be the OP's problem, sadly, it's just the thing I'd check very carefully first.

 

The Ford transmission is OK but not great. The later ZF model is much better. Many solenoid problems but these are usually for harsh shifting. Are you getting any transmission shifting issues?? Look for harsh engagement when going from forward to reverse. You don't mention any of this so I am suspicious of the battery too. Any idea how old it is? Please don't say it's still running the factory battery!!!
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"Change Battery".... LOL That's as good as my "Hey @sshole I'm not an R" that my car should display when I'm on it..


This one really points to the battery...

All the codes suddenly

Only drivability issues reported at slow speed after starting.

The codes displayed / listed would show as drivability issues all the time, not just after start up.

Elvis, don't rely on conventional chain auto-parts store testing. Heed JagV8's advise. I would either get it to a specialist that knows what they are looking for when testing or just spring for the battery.

 

One way of checking battery is to connect a known good one across in parallel with jump leads, prop it up with boxes, concrete blocks etc., and go for a drive. Either problems will go, or they won't.
If problem still there, how long has ATF fluid been in the autobox? Has it been changed at all since new? Is the ATF fluid level correct? The very first thing all the good old boy mechanics will say when you have autobox problems is "have you changed the fluid"?
Leedsman.
p.s. Still testing the big capacitor across the battery -- no errors so far, but it's a bit early yet...

 

Well after reading that it could be the battery i took it to a local Autozone (the only car "shop" that was open at the time) and at first their battery meter said low battery needs charge or something like that and then the second time it straight out said BAD BATTERY, by the way the car drove good, no transmission fault message just the check engine light on.

They also checked the alternator and that came out fine, do you guys really think this is the source of all those codes? if so I'm really happy below i posted a picture of the current battery, notice how it says made in SPAIN??? is there any battery you guys recommend? the Autozone guys pointed me to a Duralast Gold with part # H8-DLG which is on this link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2331_175948_0_ , should i just go with that one? thanks.

 

Do yourself a favour and use this forum's Search
look for
battery
and read other people's weird codes and that the new battery was the fix.

I can't see that battery but I think the handbook lists the kind you need. Don't get less than the spec or you'll be buying a second soon, with more grief in the middle.

 

Yes, just buy it. A Duralast has to be better than a "Econopower"... What the heck is that...

 

Bought mine at the Zone for I think between 140 to 150. The most expensive one they had. Cannot be cheap with this!!! Duralast.

 

I got the same one i think...lets see how it goes hopefully this is my problem

 

I am not a battery expert by any means but the "econo" (which is pictured) is not a vented battery which Jaguar calls for.

 

I bought the duralast gold h8-dlg or something like that, is there anything i need to know before taking out the old battery and putting in the new one? Thanks.

 

Make sure you have the anti-theft number for the radio. Other than that, just take care. Nothing more than you would swaping out the battery in any other car.