Hello! I recently purchased a 2001 S type v6 from auction with 9x,xxx miles. The car starts and runs great well once I charged the battery, but I still have the following issues I can't seem to find a cause for:

• OBD2 can't communicate. It powers up the scanners but can't communicate. This caused he smog to fail. I tried with a couple other scanners and it didn't work. From what I have researched it seems that electrical or failures in other modules that connect to the network are usually the cause. Does anyone have an electrical diagram?
• Trunk/Luggage won't open electrically, interior buttom nor lid button work. I don't have a programmed remote just a key so I can't test tthat. It works fine using the key hole. I took apart the mechanism and everything looks fine. There is a dangling connector but from what I read it might be for a second light in the trunk.
• Defrot seems to not work
• Suspension/bushings may needs a little work as it's a bit noisy and the ride isn't as smooth as I would expect a Jaguar to be.

I would like to get a pair of keys programmed to it once I figure out the issues with the trunk and OBD2. I do believe they all might be related. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. If anyone has a mechanic suggestion in San Diego, I would appreciate it. Not a big fan of taking older cars to the ***********.

 

Trunk lid issue was due to valet being turned on.... Sorry about that.

 

You do NOT realize how many times I had to tell customers about the the button in the glove box.

 

The very first thing to do is check the battery voltage. It must be a minimum of 12.6 volts when checked across the terminals with a voltmeter. If it's less than 12.6 volts, charge it for 8 hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If it's still less than 12.6 volts, the battery must be replaced.

What DTCs are stored in the system? If it failed smog, what was the reason? Monitors not set?

Common issues with the early cars fitted with the 3.0 litre engine are:

• Collapsed breather hose beneath the lower inlet manifold
• Oil-fouled coil units and spark plugs due to failure of the boss and camshaft cover seals
• Thermostat failure and upper radiator hose 'turret' failure
• DCCV failure with accompanied lack of heat

 

All the diagrams & workshop manual are free downloads from this site. Go get 'em!

 

Hapy New Year everyone!

The car starts right up with no issue. There is no engine light or codes. Cluster lights come on as normal but disappear once the engine is started. I connect an OBD2 scanner and it powers it up fine, but none are able to communicate. I have tried this with multiple tools. This is the issue the smog place had and caused the car to fail smog, not being able to communicate with OBD2. My next attempt is to look for failed sensors which may cause this. I have been reading and it seems to be that some of the sensors that connect to PCM my short or not work causing it not to communicate with the OBD2 sensor.

 

Check the fuse IDs and see if any list dlc or data link connector....if so check it out....the smog shop probably did, but, you never know

 

Not remotely likely. Consider the far more likely things first - blown fuse, bad wiring, bent pins, damp, etc.

 

Did you ever do this? Haven’t seen any mention of it.

Even if the starter cranking speed seems normal and the engine starts quickly, don’t let that trick you into thinking the battery must be good. Like most modern vehicles, these cars are very finicky about battery condition.

And before convincing yourself of some exotic fault affecting the code reader, make sure the basic prerequisites (such as battery voltage) are good.

 

Since the scanner seems to power up..You must have power and ground to the DLC.

OBD2 connector

So pin 4 and 16 must be good.

Check signal ground on pin 5 and see what we get.

 

Excellent step with nice diagram

 

Battery is good, I charged it for a day and confirmed 12.7 volts.

For the readout on pin 5 am I testing resistance or voltage?

 

Rod-

How many actual wires do you have in the DLC?

If I am looking at the photo correctly..I see 7?

Can you see any more wires someone may have tucked up under the dash?

 

Theres a small bump in the taping where it separates from the rest of the harness, but it seems pretty uniform and well taped. I tried to un-tape the section to see if there are tucked cut wires but I’ll need better knife blade.

How many wires should there be?

 

The connector has 16 positions, but probably not all were used. Some were likely spares for future growth while still being able to keep the same mandated connector design.

 

I will agree with you Karl...

Since you are always correct..and when you are incorrect it is only marginally off of being correct..

Back to the point..The DLC in a 2003 STR has 9 populated slots. Am I correct that pin 6 in the OP's photo is missing the CAN high connection?

 

Remember, there's no need to type that out about me being correct. Why tie up the bandwidth? If everybody did so, I'd feel bad about bringing the internet to a standstill.

Looking at that plug again, it looks like you're on to something!

Any chance the connector is there but pushed back? Or maybe it was previously pushed loose but reinstalled in the wrong spot?

I'll have to look at my '02 in the morning to verify how the connector is wired.

 

This is the only diagram I have been able to fin thus far but it only has 5 connections if I am reading it right(all of which are in my connection plus 2 and 10):
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...x2022001en.pdf

 

Thought we were on to something for a minute, with the question about the number and arrangement of contacts at the DLC. But alas, the DLC on my '02 also has only 7 wires and is arranged exactly like the one shown above:

 

Thank you for checking!

Found the wiring for it, seems to be pins are correct: