Well good news, it looks like the heads are fine and were redone. there was debris down in the intake and exhaust ports that were not letting the valves seal. I was able to pull lh head with engine still in the car.
I think my next step is to check the valve lash to see if the right shims are in the correct place. I'm still not sure what was hitting, there didn't seem to be any witness marks of any type on the valves.
One other thing, in the JTIS for the torque stages on the head bolts if i understand it right the bolts need to be tightened 90 degrees twice after the first two steps. Is this correct?

 

Interesting that you had sufficient clearance to remove the LH cylinder head with the engine in situ.

To tighten the cylinder head bolts, go in the correct sequence for each step.
Step One is to tighten all the bolts to 20 Nm; Step Two is to tighten all bolts to 35 Nm; Step Three is to tighten bolts in sequence by 90 degrees and Step Four is to tighten all the M10 bolts in sequence by 90 degrees. Step Five is to tighten the bolts at the front of the cylinder head last.

This is a good time to remove all the built up carbon from the valves and ports if that has not been previously done.

From my experience, it is best to reassemble the engine using an original gasket set, especially for the head gaskets and front timing cover.

You may also want to upgrade the water outlet to the aluminium type while the engine is apart.

 

I have the heads off and was able to get lh head out with engine still in. They looked refurbished so i took them to machine shop and found 2 exhaust valves were leaking and 2 intake were leaking. Turns out there was debris in the chambers and got on the valve and wouldn't let the valves seat, i pulled the valves and cleaned really well which worked. Glad all valves were fine, so going to be installing the heads and would like to know do the head bolts need sealant on the threads? The JTIS says nothing about sealant but i know in the past i used sealant when bolts go into water jackets.
All this work and i still am not sure what was stopping the rotation of the crank.

 

Using sealant may change the torque value.

Have you rotated the crankshaft with the heads removed?

 

Good points there - I reckon the factory idea is no sealant if it doesn't mention any.

 

The crankshaft turns over without heads on no problem, i did get the upgrade water outlet. This car is giving me problems all the way around when i went to install heads the gaskets i recieved were both rh side. now more waiting.
Guess i will have to put it back together in steps. First put heads on then rotate crank, then do the cams to see if or when i get the issue. I noticed when i pulled the cams off the cams had spring tension on them meaning the valves were compressed somewhat on various cylinders im not sure if that is meant to be or not.
I will not be using any sealant on head bolts it didnt seem to have any on the old ones and no instructions pertaining to it in the JTIS.
I do appreciate all the advice.. Thanks

 

Well after setting the timing to the letter per JTIS the motor still only turns about 90 degrees and stops dead. Im at my wits end , the heads are fine it turned over fine after the heads were pulled and installed. I don't know what direction to go in now.

 

I am assuming the spark plugs are not installed, the valves are all operating correctly and not sticking and the holding tool has been removed from the torque converter ring gear.

When you had the heads removed, did you also remove the sump and inspect the connecting rod bearings?

 

All spark plugs are out hold tool is out and all connecting rods are fine. im going to pull motor and check the driveplate, maybe its not right thats the only thing i have left.

 

Cause of my issue found, it appears that the idiot that replaced the engine prior to me getting the car put the flexplate on wrong. I didn't think it was possible but seeing is believing he didn't align the pin in the proper spot and actually covered it and tightened the flexplate right over top of the alignment pin which not only misaligned the timing ring but also bent the flexplate all to hell.
Now i need new flexplate and the ring which bolts to the torque converter cause it is all bent as well. The torque converter came out with the engine and not one drop of fluid came out of it. I truly hate following other so called mechanics!

 

I have found over the years that many 'mechanics' are definitely in the wrong trade. Not surprised that the flex-plate is incorrectly installed.

At least you now know that everything is put together correctly and the engine timing is where it needs to be.

 

One last question in step 2 of primary chain install in jtis what is the reason to not turn the vvt on the cam sprocket it seems the only way to not have slack in the chain on drivers side is to turn the vvt a bit.

 

If you turn the VVT solenoid, which is in the timing retarded position, you will have the MIL come on indicating the cam timing is incorrect requiring removal of the front timing cover to reset the VVT solenoid on the camshaft.

Be sure you follow the instructions from the JTIS Workshop Manual.

 

Its not the vvt solenoid its the vvt unit on the camshaft, not sure why because in step 6 you have to fully retard the vvt oil control unit.

 

Yes, the VVT unit on the camshaft is what I mean. If you move the unit on the camshaft, it may not be fully retarded, thus the valve timing will be incorrect. I have experimented with a five degree advance and it does not always work, so I am careful with reassembly to ensure the VVT unit is in the correct position.

Use the instructions given in JTIS Workshop Manual or you may be taking the timing cover off once again.

 

So correct me if im wrong. if there are no marks to line up on the vvt and the exhaust gear and both were removed and they spin freely on the camshaft when the bolts are loose than what position is the right position they need to be in when reassembled.
I have read the JTIS back and forth and come up with the same results and before i button it up and put it back in the car i want it to be right.

 

Assuming they are not damaged, or have blocked passageways, the VVT units are in the 'timing-retarded' position when the engine is off.

If they are bolted to the camshafts, with the primary chain in place, and then the chain is used to rotate them, it is possible for the valve timing to be incorrect. As I mentioned earlier, I have experimented with a five-degree advance, but sometimes that results in the valve timing being too advanced. If you study the image of the VVT unit, see how oil pressure is used to change the timing.

Have the VVT units in the 'timing-retarded' position with no advance when you reassemble the engine.

 

well got it back together and it started right up but barely idles and p1586 fault and yellow and red light on in the dash.