So as the title states I am having some transmission issues, I have what you guys refer to as the "Lurch" when shifting from 1st gear to second, sometimes its okay, other times its like a hard kick to the ***. I have also noticed recently my rpm's fluctuating when cruising at around 35-50 mph, the car seems to wave a bit in speed and the rpm stick jiggles up and down. it was pretty noticeable today without even looking at the rpm's, I could feel it.

This has me wondering whether its a failing transmission which I really hope is not the case!, or whether its in need of a tcm re-flash, fluid change, or a new torque converter.

The car has about 116,000 miles on it and I really don't know how well it was maintained by the past owner, but these tranny issues are leaving much to be desired with the car.

 

Start with the engine - which is probably OK but in case it's marginally not then it can upset the trans. Grab a cheap OBD tool with live data like the elm327 and look at the (long term) fuel trims.

You might be having misfires, though the TQ conv is perhaps more likely - well, I think it's the lock-up clutch and if so can be ignored.

 

I would service the transmission first. As you know it's not easy to check the fluid level and if you are low even a little bit it can affect shifting.

After getting it serviced get the TCM checked and flashed if it does not have the latest software on it. This is done by the dealer but you can get the transmission service elsewhere if you want to.

Then we can work on the TC problem.
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You're at least 16K miles overdue for a fluid change going by the accumulated wisdom here. Start there.

If the engine RPM fluctuation only happens when the transmission is cold (first 15 minutes or so of driving) it's a software issue and not mechanical. This, and the 'lurch' are addressed by separate software reflash, available at the dealer.

 

Yep, change the fluid. Mercon SP (available at any Ford dealership parts department) is a proven alternative to the still-very-costly Lifeguard 6....

 

The fluctuating rpm is typically from the moment I start the car and drive, I only really ever drive it to work which is about a 10-15 minute drive when I'm noticing these fluctuations. I'll have to let the car warm up tomorrow morning and see if it still does that after leaving the engine running for a while.

 

Update, I now have a "Restricted Performance" light coming on along with the check engine light icon illuminated, not sure whats going on there but I'm sure it's all tied to this blasted tranny.

 

You bought an 11 year old vehicle with 116000 miles on it and unknown maintenance history. Don't blame the car.

 

Hence why I'm on here attempting to find solutions, not somewhere to place blame.

 

Thanks, I just bought one from eBay that I'll try out, the tool is a lot cheaper then I would have imagined. Do you know what software to run with it?.

 

Have you attempted to read the OBDII codes?

 

Not yet, I just ordered a scanner from eBay, when I finally get it I'll test the codes out and see what pops up.

 

You may have another problem that may be causing this issue and it may not be the trans. Read the codes first. If no codes do a hard reset and see what takes place.

 

If you're driving short distances or left things on when doing work you may have flattened the battery. It may even just be an old failing battery.

 

>If you're driving short distances or left things on when doing work you may have flattened the battery. It may even just be an old failing battery.

Yes, these cars seem to be particularly sensitive to the condition of the battery.

Read the codes, check (replace?) the battery and see what information/difference that makes.
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
Current: '08 S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 hp / 259.67 torque)
Past: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green

 

I've read this battery warning several times. I am inclined to think that the battery may test read 12v with no load but while the engine is cranking to start with high amps being drawn the voltage drops below the minimum required to run the ECM setting off erroneous codes.

 

The jag docs tell you so, and the voltage.

 

I like the Android App Torque Pro cheap and decent functionality.

 

I have practically the identical car; a 2004 str with 120,000 miles. I also mostly rive short differences. I do go through periods when I drive 3-4 miles at a shot, too, and I usually do so at a pretty high speed.

I have the same problem, but I think I am in worse shape than you. I noticed I tried to accelerate quickly the other day and it wasn't gooing like I expected it, it do go, but it wasn't right. the next day, in a cold car, I got a warning light "transmission fault". I read the codes (I use the Torque App, and I love it) as soon as I stopped and got P1111 and P0731.
at it
I have been having recurring P0171/4 codes (system too lean) for a long time. they seem to come and go.

After I parked my car, I spent about 3 hours worrying and researching and when I went out to start it, everything was fine. I have since been babying it, and I am trying to figure out what I should do next.

Unfortunately, i have a bussiness trip and had planned to drive it to the airport, a 90 mile trip. trying to see if that is a terrible idea.

I also have the low-level revving thing, and will see if it happens after warm up. I was also having the "clunk" and it has gotten a little worse in the past 3 months.

I'm going to follow this thread with great interest! Would love to hear anyone's thoughts on this. as for the original poster, it just sounds like I am the "futue you"...

 

With those codes use Search and read threads about fuel trims.