Good morning folks.

I recently aquired a 2004 SC XKR Portfolio Edition and have been posting quite a bit on the x100 area of the forum sorting it out. The car was under water. Transmission was full of H20 when I started working on it. 6hp26.

I'm feeling like a traitor but I've read a lot of good posts in this forum in my searches on the 6hp26, so here I am. Man's gotta do what a man's gotta. Figure the more eyes and minds the better. Anyways,,,

At this point I have 2 codes remaining. One if for the bank 2 lower O2 sensor. I can sort that.

The other is the p0782 code 2-3 3-2 and I need some G.O.D. Good orderly direction...

I may have an over all grounding issue - earth strap to engine and battery both. I'll be addressing that this week.

When I drive the car (I've done very very little of that) the car will reverse fine. The first one or two shifts are very smooth. Then, as I approach what must be 2nd and 3rd that's it. It will shift no higher. I soon get a "gear box fault". The "S"port light goes out and the gearing on the left side of the JGate will not illuminate. If I turn the car off, the fault disappears and, if I drive again the process repeats.

Yesterday I drained excess fluid out of trans trying to bring it to proper level. I will recheck the level again before I continue just as a double check.

Can the single 2-3 3-2 solenoid be changed and how do I identify the single solenoid? Affording a whole set would be tough for me right now. Should I just drop the valve body prepared to check soft parts - bridge, connector and tubes?

What should I be thinking about?

Corroded contacts AT solenoids?

I really want and need to do this from least to most expensive components.

I thank you all...

 

The attached PDF may help in case you've not seen it.

Also, see this at about page 141-on

There's more somewhere I dimly recall but you my have to search hard if you need any more.

 

Great, thanks.

So, I'm looking at this excerpt... Maybe there is more or better info between p141 and the beginning of the manual trans section, but I didn't see it.

It's not easy for me to make the connection, with the data given, and which clutch pack and I assume, related solenoid, with the "code" they are using here...

Is this saying that when in GEAR D2 (is this 2-3?) that PRS1, 3, 5 and 6 are involved all at the same time? If that's the case it would be tricky to figure out WHICH it is that gone south...!

 

You have a tricky and not common issue with your ZF transmission.

Can't really help but I have posted this several times as these guys are really experts on the ZF transmissions and carry any and all parts.
I think it would be worth a call or E-mail describing your problems.
ZF Parts
As you can see from their website many solenoids are available and it might be worthwhile to replace them all?

You could spend a lot of time and transmission fluid changing them one at a time and they run $85 a piece while the entire set of seven are around $300.
Of course your problem could also not be solenoid related too.
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You know what club,,,
I think your right! x2.
The second part is what I fear...

Great site, and the prices look good.
I think I've seen the filter somewhere for a little less, thoGood stuff.

Piggy bank is screaming at me already! 😊

 

One thing I should point out in case you didn't know is you can use Mercon SP fluid instead of the Lifeguard6. Easier and cheaper to get. Maybe another round of fluid changes would help?
With flooding it might still have some junk in it somewhere causing the problems?
Plus with just doing a drain and fill and with the flooding issue I might even do a flush which I never recommend. With Mercon SP it would be an option.

Yes these days you can pick up the integrated filter/pan cheaper from other suppliers. I see one on EBay right now for $39 with free shipping.
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Hey Club, Thanks...
I'm very open to ideas and I need a complete flush. I still see signs of water in the oil. Was hoping heat, just idling the car, would evaporate it - but it hasn't yet...

I'm what's known (in Jag and Porsche forum land) as a CHEAP skate amongst cheeeeap skates but, I have always hear to never (or at least be very weary) of aftermarket pans with the 6hp26 and zf transmissions... That they can potentially starve the trans of fluid.

Hmm. At least I've heard this with the 5hp24. Is it different with the 6hp26?

Believe me, I don't like it, I ain't made O money. But all of the warnings have made me nervous in this area.Jus say'n

 

I'm unsure who even sells aftermarket pans. The parts place posted before is good or even excellent.

 

There are LOTS of aftermarket pans online, in general, then ebay and amazon... The filters on the web site y'all have me offer OE zf for 120 I think, but they can also be found for about 90$ then up for a ZF type. Every penny counts.

I wish that I could call the folks at that site but a number is hard to find. They have a message service via website, a generic kinda email thru the site. I left my number and hope that someone calls me back.

UPDATE: Well kinda. I opened the fill port this weekend and the trans was clearly over filled. I let that fluid drain. I'm ashamed to say that the fluid still (tho not much) had some evidence of H20. No good. I let excess run out and then began pumping and waiting for the fluid to come up to temp. It did and I capped it.

I'm just taking things one step at a time.

Anyways, while I was down there I pulled the plug on the side rear of the trans and cleaned up both ends. It didn't look and. Cleaned anyways. Placed it back and got out from under.

I took the car for a spin just around the block and NO change. Will shift nicely from 1 to 2 and then no further. It'll take a bit but then the "Gear Fault" light message lights up and the code appears in list. Shoot! P0782.

I also checked the engine to body earth cable will I was down there and it looks ok, but I should replace. If I use the DMM on volts from engine to good ground I get 14+v. From engine compartment fuse box hot posts to body, about 14 v. From engine bare steel to ground point I get about .20 volts - which I guess means grounds are ok...?

At the same time that DOESN'T mean that the trans is completely grounded. Anyone know how to rightly and specifically check the grounding of the trans and trans systems???

Also, if I drop the pan, can one get accurate ohms readings on the solenoids while they are still plugged in? I guess it should help if I unplug the trans so if I am including the wiring in the resistance values it will just be short stretches of wire.

I'm all ears here...
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Well it's suppose to be OEM and is marked made in Germany and only $39??
ZF Pan
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I hear ya... I found this for Filtran:
https://www.filtranllc.com/about/factory-locations/

Not sure what to do. 39$ is an amazing price.

 

Off topic but I read Filtrans company history and boy did they change over the years! Stared making ornamental iron in Chicago back in the 1800's! But now they are part of a huge conglomerate and have facilities all over the world. Mexico, China, Germany, US and Japan. The company in Germany that made that pan was a joint venture with Filtran back in 1986.
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Good Morning, Members
After messaging Klaus at The CTSC a few times and then talking to him for a looooong QandA (great guy!), and NOT taking his advise exactly, I did some things,,,, low and behold - it/they worked...!

I have a little ways to go and I hate counting chickens before they hatch, BUT....

So I removed the valve body, did some air pressure testing on the clutches thru the ports on the underside of the transmission. There are 5 working ports that connect (a press fit) when bolting the VB back into the trans... On test, the 3 and R clutch port seemed a bit strange (all I had was a bicycle pump with a rubber attachment/seal) but the other ports built pressure and the clutch packs moved rightly with air pressure.

Fit the separator plate, the solenoids and completely cleaned up/out the valve body. Removed each valve/piston one by one to inspect and confirm free movement. Inspected the accumulator dampers which looked brand new. There was zero rust or corrosion (a complete surprise considering it had to have sat in water for a good while) anywhere. Cleaned up the contacts on both sides of the mechatronic plug. Replaced plug sleeve. Replaced pan. Replaced 4 soft hoses and block seal. Reinstalled, filled with oil (not life guard) and took it for a VERY short drive.

I did not "reset" adaptions and have no way to do it. Hopefully you guys can tell me IF my thinking is accurate on this point...? The mechatronics unit sat for a very long time without power, the car (while mechatronic was installed) sat without power for a very long time here and there. So, I figure in all that time powered down is "reset" itself???? Is that how it works?

First drive,,, NO "gear box fault" on dash display shifting thru first second and third... I still have to hook up the code reader and see, but, with some slipping (and it seemed to get better as I drove) - I only drove a VERY short distance - the car seemed to go thru all the lower gears,,, again, with some slipping and,,,.... Is this to be expected?

I RAN OUT of sun and called it a day.... I never got the car into higher gears 4th (maybe) but definitely not 5th or 6th for sure...

Q: Considering I completely opened emptied the valve body, removed the solenoids and all that - how long and thru how many shift cycles does/will it take for the trans and the maze to be right and be COMPLETELY full/up to pressure - in all of it's passages? I got the feeling that the valve body was "refilling" and it would take some driving to get itself right. Is this how it works and what I should expect?

Thanks for allll your help and advise!

 

No, it's not how it works.

To clear them you need a tool with that ability, such as IDS/SDD.

 

Thanks Jag... Deep bow, many thanks

 

Yes JagV8 is right. Why did you not follow Klaus's advice fully? What exactly was it?
I post about using CTSC but have stopped mentioning Klaus as I got some feedback he stopped answering the phone and only did E-mail as he got too busy.
Glad he talked to you and yes he is top notch on ZF transmission's.

You did not mention how you filled the transmission? I think you know the correct way but still wanted to check. With what the car has gone thru I still recommend another fluid change but good to hear you did not find any evidence of water inside the unit. So maybe you can get it going?
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I'm sorry I neglected this... The car is running, no more transmission faults, but still...

I get a slight pulsing while driving and the doggone thing always (whether sport mode or not) takes off in first gear. Not a problem in hard exceleration but a pain in slow gradual in city traffic. Still needs help.

Is there a temp the trans needs to come to before its own adaptions processes will activate? I have only done short drives back and forth to work, 1 or 2 longer. I read in another forum that the 6hp26 needs to reach certain temps before it starts it's adaption processing

 

it’s supposed to take off in first gear

 

I've read 2nd in normal and sometimes first in S,,, but usually 2nd. You're sure about that?

 

yes only the 4.0 sc with the mercedes trans does that