This is my first post & I need some help please! Recently I have been getting a "Cruise Control Not Available" message.

The message doesn't come on all the time & I have used the cruise control very recently so I know it works. Of course, it doesn't work when the message comes up on my dash.

Now the engine light is coming on. The engine light first came on about 2 weeks ago. At the same time I also got an Engine Coolant Level Low message (but the engine temp was not high). Since I had been driving, I couldn't put coolant in right away but I didn't want to keep driving so I parked & had my husband pick me up.

When we went back the next day, I added coolant & the engine light went out. It came on again a few days ago but the car was running fine so I cleared it & waited to see if it would happen again.

The light came back on today. I had driven about 10 miles, stopped a couple of times, for about 10 min each stop. Then when I restarted the car to come home the engine light came on.

I checked the OBDII which gave me an error of P2610 ECM/ PCM Engine Off Timer Performance Error. I am still also getting the "Cruise Control Not Avail" message on an intermittent basis.

I have a 2006 S-Type 3.0L. I know what the ECM is but I don't know where it is on my car or how to fix this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Welcome to the forum debi42k I've moved your post to the S Type section.
Please post an intro in the new members section.
Are you sure about the code number?
I'd suggest having your battery load tested before doing anything more, strange electrical faults are often caused by a failing battery so it;s good to eliminate that first.

 

Probably a low battery voltage. Check without starting engine after standing overnight.

 

+1. Classic low battery symptoms.

The low coolant level warnings must not be ignored if accompanied by actual loss of coolant. Look for leaks and fix them immediately.

 

Thanks! I also read that the problems could be caused by low battery voltage. Can I check it myself (and how) or should I take it in to my mechanic?

 

You can. Need some sort of voltmeter then check after car stands over night and without starting the engine. Voltage measured across battery should be at least 12.5V.

I understand AutoZone and the like wil do it for you, free...

 

I know this is a 3 year old post , but I am getting the same code at times...I was wondering what the final outcome was...I will check battery voltage in the morning and go from there...at the same time the old park brake fault lights up just like the poster has had happen.

 

OP didn't login for 3.5 yrs. No report back.

Battery is still #1 suspect - by far.

 

yeah I guess people forget or just give up, but it would be nice if after getting free friendly advice they would report the results....especially when they are treated like long-time member ,even when they are a first-timer like all of you have done for me...just my thoughts....now watch me forget to report back and be a hypocrite....hope not

 

In case it's not the battery (and be sure to test it hard) ... this is such a rare error ... it'll need serious ... er ... guesses?

 

Let car sit for 4 hours. Battery voltage 12.4. Will check again in morning. Might be headed for a 200 dollar battery..oh well.....now 6 hrs 12.3 volts..no draws anywhere checked with my snap n mt500 using the shunt

 

ok here are the tests and results...battery voltage this morning 12.27 volts....voltage at startup 11.07 volts...second startup 10.96 volts...ran for 10 minutes...load tested and showed weak....voltage 12.24 volts.....got a new battery...tested at 12.67 volts...load tested 3 times...each time recovered to 12.65 volts and showed good...put battery in car...first startup voltage drop to 11.68 volts..let car run for ten minutes to stabilize itself and reclaim surface charge....wait 10 minutes..load tested again...same good results then immediately started the car...voltage drop to 11.67 volts.....bottom line is, as most of you know,these cars are finicky about having a really good battery...I will know more next week when I drive it some and recheck battery again and see if any codes or messages set....oh yeah the charge voltage for the old battery was 13.81 volts....the new battery 14.43 volts.....the car seemed to even run better with the alternator working at top efficiency, running the car and not trying to recharge a weak battery, because I had the a/c on too...I guess I learned the hard way because I replaced the alternator 2 months ago and ignored my experience, and did not replace the borderline battery...thank goodness the battery is a breeze compared to the alternator.....as always, thanks for all the help and input..

 

Hey you reported back!!
Good job!
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thanks. Lots of battery related posts on here. Maybe my findings will save someone some heartache and skinned knuckles