Hi all. I purchased my 2006 S-type 3.0L V6 about 10 years ago with 32k miles. I’ve had no problems until last year when it went into limp mode. I found that it was misfiring (I think 2, 3 and 5) I didn’t it much over the winter. I replaced the spark plugs and coils on the driver side. I still had misfires on 3 and 5. I finally got around to replacing the spark plugs and coils on the passenger side. (What a terrible design getting the spark plugs on that passenger side. That’s when the problems started. It started fine but in drive it continued to misfiring on 3 and 5 then 1,3 and 5. Then stated to run rough and stall with multiple codes. It turned to be a bad battery and stated great with the new battery. But started to have multiple fires on 1,3 and 5. P0300 and P0316. I maybe I did something wrong putting it together and took the intake manifold off and reconnected everything again. Now it starts but it’s very rough and stalls out.
The codes now:
P0300
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0316
P0661
The gaskets around the manifold tuning valves looked good. Connections seem tight.
I don’t know where to go next. I thought just replace the lower manifold tuning valve but now it’s misfiring on 4 and 6. I’m totally bummed.

i would love some guidance. Any help would much appreciated
Dave
2006 Jaguar S-Type 3.0L V6 62K miles

 

Hiya Dave,

Welcome to the forum.

A few quick thoughts for you. You mentioned the battery had failed and was replaced. Have you checked the charging system? There's a possibility the battery is not receiving a full change. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals and start the engine. On a 2003+ model, you should see about 14.5 volts for the first few minutes, then tapering off around 13.5.

What brand of coils did you install? Sadly, many forum members have reported bargain brand coils failing almost immediately. This includes no-name eBay specials, and white-box or store brand from the discount chains. Typically you want to go with a quality brand like Denso, NGK, etc. I did just that on my '02 V6 and still had the misfortune to get one bad from stock. What a troubleshooting nightmare that was.

Then there's always the possibility something was disturbed during this recent work. Hopefully not, as it may be a lot of work to figure that out.

Now, please excuse me for a moment while I get up on my soapbox on the subject of chasing misfires:

[Soapbox mode] If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead a good-looking and nice-smelling mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.
[Soapbox mode off/]

 

Hi Karl,
i don’t know what happened but I posted a quick reply but I got signed or something. So this is an abbreviated reply.

my coils are by ECCPP. (Replacement for UF435 / 5C1399) from Amazon.
spark plugs iridium, I think IGK or Bosch.
battery voltage 14.99, tapers to 14.58 but stalls if I don’t keep the rêve up.

thenks for getting back to me. Sorry for my poor grammar, left put words. I’ve been working on this engine for the last year at least. The only thing I can think of nextf is checking the compression. I haven’t done this before but it looks straight forward.
ive taking off the intake manifold a couple of times so I can probably do this again within a few hours but I wonder about the new misfiring son the driver side. #4 and #6.
I’ve been working my lawn mower engine, Kawasaki fr691v, 4 stroke 2 cylinder v-twin, and I’ve learned a lot. It’s kinda fun.

Thanks so much for help.
Dave

 

..but I have to keep the revs up.
I’ve taken off the intake manifold…
…but I wonder about the misfires on the driver side, #4 and #6.

also sounds like I’ll have to have someone keep the revs up when I check the compression

thanks again
Dave

 

Blue Ranger, You may be sitting in the same boat as I do...:
I just bought another S-Type to add to my collection, as fabulous red V8 4.2L
I bought it knowingly with an issue. That issue manifested itself only recently before the sale:
Lots and lots of white smoke.
You did not mention, if you also have white smoke coming out of your exhausts...

My bet - regarding my red V8 - is on the fuel injectors! I bet that 1, 2 or 3 of them are stuck in the open position.
I got the same collection of error codes, which you have. My spark plugs are all wet and dirty.

I am currently waiting for 8 new injectors to arrive. I ordered them on Aliexpress.

 

ECCPP coil packs from Amazon. I have been to the ECCPP website and while slick looking, it contains grammatical errors and "Chinglish". My best guess is that there are right in there with other no-name "eBay grade" bargain parts. Coil-packs are critical to engine function and should be replaced with OE, or OEM units (Denso, NGK, Delphi. etc.)

Just for "fits and giggles," why not take one of the coils from a cylinder that is not reporting a misfire and swap it with one that is, to see if the fault moves with the swap.

There forums are littered with tales of woe from DIY mechanics who installed bargain coil packs on their Jags, BTW, and even OEM coils can have a dud right out of the box.

 

I had a thought along those same lines. I suspect ECCPP coils are actually re-badged Fling Dung or Wok Hoam brand.

I was going to suggest installing new name-brand coils on the easily accessible side. Your idea would help confirm a fault for less money. The eventual fix would likely cost the same, but it would be nice to know before opening the wallet.

Make sure you have the correct cylinder numbering for your year and model, too. Somewhere around here we have some charts but I can’t locate them right now.

 

Here you go...

 

Peter
funny someone asked me about checking my fuel injectors a couple of weeks ago. It was not on the Jaguar forum and I couldn’t follow up with that conversation.
interesting
Dave

 

So what worries me, besides everything else, is this new P0661 error.
it says: Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
Internal Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low
which I thinks means the reading to the ECM/PCM from the Manifold Tuning Control Valve is too low
so I thought maybe I need to replace the lower Manifold Tuning Control Valve or can there still be other reasons for having that error.

i think trading the ignition coils on the driver side would be easy enough just to see if there’s a difference. But that #4 and #6 errors just showed up when I started last, together with that P0661
The P0316 error may be related to the Crank Position Sensor which could be due to vacuum leaks or faulty PCM

I just want to say, I don’t know what all this means! I just reading from the complete service manual I got a hold of. But I’m learning the lingo.

 

I know you are new around here, so 1) please do not start multiple threads dealing with your issues and 2) it is not a good idea to tack your issues on the end of an archival thread.

The above makes it difficult for those who are attempting to help you.

With reference to your P0661 code: You removed the manifold when you changed the ignition components on the right bank, no? So, yep, you could have damaged the wiring, connector, or tuning valve in the process.

You are going to have to be a bit methodical here, if you want to get your S-type sorted.

 

Deep breath! Step back from the ledge!

Worried about the new P0661? How about worrying about the national debt instead? Maybe contemplate the erosion of polite society? How about the price of fuel and groceries? Those are much more worthy things to worry about. Since P0661 is new, it could be as simple as a loose connector. Even if those IMT valves totally failed (highly unlikely), I doubt you’d even notice.

P0316 caused by a bad PCM? First, I’d suggest enlisting a helper. Have him slam your car door on your dominant hand, leaving you writhing in excruciating pain. Months will pass, during which you will be unable to even think about changing the PCM. When you do regain use of your hand, hopefully you will have forgotten all about that idea.

From Troubleshooting 101: Fix the known problems first, in this case the misfire codes likely caused by that $29 set of Chinese coils. Once that is corrected, the other codes may take care of themselves.

 

I’m sorry about that. I think I accidentally replied to a ‘related post’ listed below my last post and my ‘reply’ went to a new thread. Am I doing this correctly now by clicking on “Quick Reply”?
‘thanks

 

Hi Karl,
im taking that deep breath. Those cheap set of Chinese coils were $68. I definitely overpayed. I ordered a set of NGK ignition coils. $259. I’ll get back after I replace with all new coils.
thanks you for everyone’s help
Dave

 

I have taken out all 6 spark plugs and coils. Visually the coils look fine but I have new NGK coils ready to replace the old. The wells look clean. I noticed the end of 5 of the spark plugs have carbon buildup on the distal rim of the threads but the terminal electrodes look clean. On the other hand, on that one spark plug the rim and threads are very clean but the terminal, center electrode and ground electrode has some carbon build up.
i included a picture. (On the right is the plug with exact same look on all 5 plugs, on the left is the one plug that looks like this.
what do you think is going on and do you think there is any connection to the misfiring? These are iridium DENSO IT16 plugs. I didn’t gap them because I understood them to be already gaped.

thanks for any help
Dave

i hope the pic goes through

 

Even if a plug is discoloured it can be due to a bad coil rather than the plug.

Could the P0316 be P1316? It would be much more likely.

 

hi all,
Back from a shirt vacation. Installed new NGK coils, new spark plugs, reinstalled intake manifold, checked all connectors and hoses, reconnected battery, clear all error codes, started up the engine, quick start, quickly went in performance restriction mode, same error codes of multiple misfires
P0300
P0316
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0306
Tends to stall while in idle after only a few minutes.

if anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it.
thanks
Dave

2006 Jaguar S-Type 3.0L V6 ~65,000 miles

 

Hi Peter,
no,smoke. The plugs looked kinda strange which were recently new (pictured in the pics) but not wet but Ii replaced plugs with new ones. And new coils.
same problem codes.
Should I worry about the fuel injectors if I don’t have any smoke or wet plugs?
thank for any help.
Dave

2006 Jaguar S-Type 3L V6


QUOTE=Peter_of_Australia;2769772]Blue Ranger, You may be sitting in the same boat as I do...:
I just bought another S-Type to add to my collection, as fabulous red V8 4.2L
I bought it knowingly with an issue. That issue manifested itself only recently before the sale:
Lots and lots of white smoke.
You did not mention, if you also have white smoke coming out of your exhausts...

My bet - regarding my red V8 - is on the fuel injectors! I bet that 1, 2 or 3 of them are stuck in the open position.
I got the same collection of error codes, which you have. My spark plugs are all wet and dirty.

I am currently waiting for 8 new injectors to arrive. I ordered them on Aliexpress.[/QUOTE]

 

NGK coils? Are they OK?

I expect OE were Denso.

I think P0316 means it's misfiring badly right from it starting to run.

Bad fuel pump? Blocked cat(s)?

John

 

+1 on checking fuel pressure to start.

On the surface, it does appear to be a catalytic converter issue.