I bought an S-Tyoe a couple days ago from its original purchaser and it has been largely undriven for the last few years.
The auto gas 79k miles on it and is in great condition but has an issue causing restricted performance. Codes are for the O2 bank 1 sensor 2, knock sensor 2 and then p1000 and p1647. I'm not worried about P1000 but don't know what p1647 is.
The seller told me that it's been in restricted performance mode since they replaced the battery. But it has the correct battery and voltage and these lights are constant. The .CEL will reset and stay off for a drive cycle but returns next key cycle.
the ABS Fault is constant. I've inspected the sensors but can't scan that module.
I found the air box full of foam from a rodent and cleaned that and. the MAF. Ive checked thoroughly for unmetered air and haven't been able to verify any.
My question is that can someone tell me if there is a shared harness connector for the bank 1 O2, knock sensor 2 and any ABS wiring. I suspect a bad or damaged connector or that wired have been chewed on.
The car runs beautifully but onlt up to 2500-3000 rpm when limp mode kicks in.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

I should add that the radio comes on but all functions are frozen except the volume.
the gear indicator lights work sporadically and there are a couple switch lights that flicker. The heater was acting strange but has calmed down to normal operation for the most part.
This car sat for awhile and I realize that is the worst thing for an automobile here at the coast of Washington State. I've inspected as many connectors as I've had time for and.opened the bcm to find it shockingly clean with no interb corrosion to speak of. I haven't tried a CD in the audio system and none of the phone buttons do anything.
DSC and Sport Mose are disabled. Sport kode did come on a few times the first day or so.

The car is a 2004 with a 3.0 V6, 79k mi and what I would consider standard features.

 

With all the random DTCs you're finding stored, the first place to begin with a diagnosis is by checking the available battery voltage. Many random instrument cluster warnings, DTCs, and other electrical 'gremlins' are caused by insufficient available voltage.

With the ignition in the off position for at least thirty minutes, use a voltmeter across the battery terminals to determine the available voltage. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts indicated on the voltmeter. If there is less than 12.6 volts showing, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect.

Also, use a smart phone with the Torque app and a Bluetooth interface to connect to the vehicle's ECM/PCM to read fuel pressure, etc in real time. If your X202 has been unused for sometime, it's not uncommon for the fuel pump to fail or to produce low fuel pressure.

 

Here are two useful items to assist with diagnosis:

X202 onwards Workshop Manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aq3872pbu5...kshop.pdf?dl=0

2003 X202 Electrical Guide:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ocfmq0ivw...Guide.pdf?dl=0

The electrical guide is for MY2003, but should be very similar.

 

Thank you for your time and effort to reply to my post.

The battery is correct for the vehicle and does indeed hold 12.6 or greater. This is my 3rd S-Type in the last couple years and I realize the absokute necessity for an adequate battery.
The fuel pressure.reported on a very inexpensive scanners live data was 381kpa at the lowest I observed. And the engine seems to have no issue with lack of fuel and it runs very smooth......at idle its barely perceptible that its running whether you're sitting in the drivers seat or standing next to the car with your habd on it.

It.will drain a fully charged battery in just 20-30min after its parked. The blower motor stayed on once and drained it and one of the cooling fans doesn't like to shut off.

I haven't been able.to.get under the vehicle to see if the O2.and the knock sensor run in the same harness or not and that's what I was hoping to find out here. I'm fairly certain that it's a wiring issue but will perform tests on the components causing codes. Any help with how to test those components would be appreciated.

 

Well worth using site search for P1647 as it'll get you fixes as well as explanation.

Be sure you know Jaguar's P1000 for your car model as well - web meanings are often wrong.

 

I appreciate your time to respond. Thank you.
My understanding is that i probably set the P1000 when o cleared codes to see which ones would return. Since the car had been sitting and had the battery replaced by the owner (who swears that's when the restricted performance issue began) I thought maybe some erroneous codes may clear and maybe even after putting the car back in service daily that some gremlins from sitting may work themselves out.

So for my model I believe that I caused the P1000 and the vehicle is telling me that it hasn't completed its entire self check. Once all of the repairs are made that could cause fault codes then the P1000 should clear and a P1111 should appear.

I'm getting a P1447 for the CCC now. Haven't investigated that but ice burned about ¾ tank since I got it and it's very low on fuel at the moment.

I did find that a rodent had made a disaster in the cabin air filter box and was sure I'd find chewed wiring to the ECM but it was all good. Opened the ECM and all was ok as far as a visual inspection.

Of note....the gear selector light work intermittently and S mode is not active. The park brake releases sometimes without the foor brake applied. Is that normal?

 

If it was sitting & battery flat you'd have got P1000 anyway. And you're right that if the faults are gone you'll get P1111 in due course.

For now if you wish you can use OBD to see which monitor(s) is/are unset.

The gear stuff could be that one/two of the two bolts holding the shift cable to the trans (under car) is loose/missing. Small, 8mm?, hex heads.

The park brake ... doesn't sound right.

 

A defective knock sensor would be a reason for restricted performance. I had this on an X308, when I bought it.

 

JagV8 and Peter_of_Australia......your replies are genuinely appreciated and valued. Thank you both.

I will definitely check the bolts you mentioned for the trans cable.

This car has almost 80k mi on it and the knock sensor wqs replaced at just under 45k miles at a Jaguar dealer.
It certaincertainly could be faulty again and as soon as I find the test procedure I'll be testing it.

Today I swapped the O2 sensors from one side to the other and the fault continued to report against B1S2. There is also a parameter on my scan tools live data that always shows a value of 0000. So I'll be trying to find the wiring problem causing that.

The rear brake pads are shot so I ordered a set and will replace those very soon. I've never had a vehicle that throws an abs dtc and warning lamp because of worn out brake shoes......and I don't think that's the root of the abs problem.
I'll r&r.the front sensors while I'm replacing the rear brakes and clean them to see if that helps.

My brother just ordered a Bluetooth capable scan tool that is supposed to allow the use of a smart phone to perform a very impressive number of tests on all of a vehicles systems. I forget the brand he ordered but it sounds very much like what you guys recommended .
So I will have more detailed information soon and will post it here as well as any repair results if I'm able to repair it.

I notice my very cheap Autel scanner does not show any result for vehicle speed. The DSC and cruise are of course disabled because or the ABS Fault.....
but I was wondering if it's common for a cheap scanner to not to read the vehicle speed?

 

I am not sure there is test procedure for the knock sensor (I just do not know). I was just very lucky that the knock sensor, which I needed for the X308 was available on Aliexpress very cheap - and it does the trick. I just swapped the knock sensor, because the ODBII code suggest as much, and this solved the issue.

Rear brake: Check the thickness of the rotors as well. I assume you also have the electric handbrake on your S-Type? It's a bit tricky to swap the pads. I did it, just can't remember, how. Suggestions: I am sure that some ODBII scanners allow you to tell the S-Type to disengage the handbrake, so that you can do repairs. Obviously, use wheel-blocks (e.g. bricks) on those wheels, which remain on the ground. If you can't do an ODBII disengage, maybe something like that - I think that works: Put the car in P and push the hand-brake switch forward to manually disengage that handbrake. Check, if you can turn off the ignition, put leave the key in the lock. I think, this leaves the hand-brake disengaged. Variation of that are choosing a gear instead of P and even leaving ignition on, which however would draw big time on the battery, but if you connect a battery-charger during that time, it should be OK.

ABS light on: I did not have that on the S-Types, but on an X-Type: The solution was - after extremely long search - that the was an intermediate contact only on that pin of the big ABS pump connector, which went to the front right wheel sensor. I replaced that single pin in that connector. Good now. Obviously, it could have been any pin to any wheel sensor or it could have been any connector on the way or even the cable or the sensor.

 

I'm sure you've checked....but I have to ask anyway:

Did you look around for any sign of rodent-chewed wiring?

Cheers
DD

 

That's great advice and I briefly wondered how I was gonna deal with that as it isn't typical 'drum in hat' design like most rear disc set ups I've worked on. I did replace the rear brake pads on the last 2 S-Tyoes I've had but I'm pretty sure that the hand a hand brake lever and not the electric paddle. I will take your advice and carefully block it and put a 10amp charge to it while I install the rear pads.
I should have access to the brake module codes later this afternoon and that should help me narrow it down to fewer wires to trace out if one of the sensors turns out to be the culprit.

 

Yes I have been keeping a close eye on that and I kind of expected that I would already have found rodent damaged wiring but haven't yet.
It was pretty late 2 nights ago when I discovered that the cabin air filter area was completely full of torn up paper and foam and didn't smell too good.
Since the ECM lives just below i thought for sure that I would find my problems there but didn't. I needed the car the next day so I reinstalled the wiper cowl and engine bay stiffener and the ECM.
I suspect that when I go back at it I will be trying to n inspect the large harness that crosses the rear of them engine for rodent damage

Thank you for the reply, I sincerely appreciate it.

 

I remembered that it actually is possible to test a knock sensor:
Remove the knock sensor, fixate it in a vice, connect the 2 connections to a voltmeter (lowest Voltage DC setting), and hit the vice with a hammer. If the sensor is OK, you should see short voltage spikes.