I have had the following issue arise twice and would prefer to nip it in the bud. When using the AC, warm/hot air flows from the far left and right front vents but cool air flows from the two front center vents. Both times this has happened all vents began to flow cold air after 5-10 mins of driving. I have searched and found three similar cases: one which was not followed up, another where the evap temperature sensor fixed the problem (JohnBurns), and a third where the evap sensor did not fix the problem and there was no resolution.

I am going to take a look at the cabin-temp/evap temp sensors later today. I plan to clean the cabin temp sensor with MAF cleaner. I am not too familiar with checking their resistance but will give it a go. Are there any tips you guys can provide? I will be using jaguarclimatecontrol.com for reference pics.

From what I have read, I do not think this is a DCCV issue based on how the heat is flowing (e.g. it is not blowing only hot or blowing hot/cold left vs. right) but please correct me if I am wrong.

As it stands, do I risk frying the CCM (RCCM?) if I continue using the AC?
I do not plan to use the ac until this is fixed but we are heading into a warming trend.

Many thanks.

David

 

If the DCCV has not been changed at this late date I would change it now.

Do you know if it's been replaced?

I would also check the RCCM. It's easy to get to in a car with NAV. Usually removing the glove box will give you access. Look for burned traces.

You could have one of both of these problems and they are both MUCH more common too. So hold off on swapping the temperature sensors until you know the condition of the DCCV and the RCCM.
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I had a similar issue when I picked mine up a month ago...the circuit on the CCM was FRIED. The test is pretty easy...pop the fuse panel cover off the left side of the dash and locate the green 14 pin connector. Key on, engine off, backprobe pins 9&10 (brown/green & brown white wires respectively). As you operate the temp controls (raise and lower temp) you should see a change in voltage on these wires. If you don't, the DCCM is fried and will need to be repaired/replaced. If you do, then the issue probably (based on what I read when mine was faulty) lies in the coolant valve.

I haven't gotten around to actually testing my DCCV for an amp draw yet, but based on the resistance I have, and the fact that I can hear them clicking when I power them up, I think they're ok...still going to put a little 2.5A fuse in there to protect the control module, though.

The DCCV is a bit of a dick to get at and the release lever for the connector is located on the hard-to-reach side of the connector, but it's doable if you take your time and work CAREFULLY.

Good luck!

 

The RCCM only seems to burn out due to a faulty DCCV, so fixing the RCCM is best done only after changing the DCCV.

 

Yeah...I disconnected mine (DCCV) and pinched the hoses to protect the repair.