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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 08:57 AM
  #61  
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I'd change the external sensor first as if it is getting a false reading it will throw all the rest off.
They are fairly cheap and easy to replace, it lives behind the front bumper.

IIRC mine was blowing about 45F/7C on LO so pretty much ambient for you right now.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #62  
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+1 on that. 5 mins to change and quite cheap item from dealer.

Proper diagnostics need the dealer tool.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by derby98
My 05 4.2 with nav has had the "HOT" air problem. I replaced the DCCV, still hot air.
Removed the RCCM & inspected it, no blown traces anywhere/
I noticed that with the AC on, the compressor is NOT on. The refrigerant levels are good but no compressor activation.

Should I be looking for faulty evap sensors?
Does a failed sensor cause the compressor to cut off?

Thanks
Be sure to check Fuse 32 (10A) under the hood passenger side. It powers the DCCV and AC clutch so a blown fuse gives hot air and no AC clutch operation.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 05:37 PM
  #64  
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Thanks for the advice.......hopefully the need for the dealers "equipment" won't come in to play as in my experience they just use the equipment to extract as many £££'s from you that they can, I don't have a lot of faith in them after they recently diagnosed my engine misfire problem as needing a new Throttle Control unit and Lamda sensor (£1800 quote for the repair) when all I eventually fitted was a new Lamda Sensor and an ignition coil. cost me a new gizmo to read the fault codes from the car but I still saved a fortune :-) :-)
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #65  
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Thanks for all the sound advice.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #66  
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mine will blow hot/cold on all vents. blows hot for awhile then cold for a minute then back hot . low side 42 high 250. no leaks. that valve dccv cause that? what if i undo heater hoses as right now we don't need heat. in otherwords bypass the dccv
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #67  
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That will work to determine if it's a DCCV problem.
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 07:45 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by tbird6
Never heard of that failure? I would get a second opinion. What exactly is the motor circuit?

Does the blower motor work at all or do you not have cooling? You need to explain what your car is doing because this does not make any sense?
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Blower motor workes fine, A/C works fine, no heat on driver side
Thanks
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 07:48 AM
  #69  
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DCCV likely.
 
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Old May 19, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #70  
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bypassed the hoses and have air now. went to the junk yard sat for some other parts and found a 02 ls . got the dccv for 5.00 plus 45 cents tax. want a deal. not ready to tackle it yet. got two struts for 40.00 .also a harman karman rear speaker for my 8, for 3.00. struts went right in.
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 11:01 AM
  #71  
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Default DCCV Exact location

The post said the DCCV fuse was located under hood / passenger side. Where exactly?
My real question is that I've gotten 2 different answers from 2 different mechanics on my A/C. One said he'd have to take the dashboard off to repair and the other said what we needed to look at was on the passenger side upper floor-board. (Much less labor intensive). My problem: Blower works fine. But it's only blowing hot air. Where I live, we NEVER need the heater in a car. Ever! So mechanic number 2 said we could somehow make an adjustment and put my A/C on permanent cold. I'm okay with that... I live in a beautiful, yet small town, and am 1100 miles away from the nearest Jag mechanic. And I myself am not mechanically inclined AT ALL. Thanks for your patience and answers..
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 11:43 AM
  #72  
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Can I just permanently put the Evap Temp Sensor (located behind the glove box) on permanent cold air as my mechanic said he could and should do as a cheap fix? We don't need anything but A/C where I live anyway..
 
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Old May 20, 2013 | 12:46 PM
  #73  
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Don't install a used DCCV. They will all fail eventually and that used one is already over ten years old. The DCCV is not very expensive since we have the Ford part.

Why not change the DCCV and repair it correctly?
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Old May 20, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Cabotom
Can I just permanently put the Evap Temp Sensor (located behind the glove box) on permanent cold air as my mechanic said he could and should do as a cheap fix? We don't need anything but A/C where I live anyway..
If the DCCV is faulty it doesn't matter what the sensors tell it, so I think your mechanic is wrong.
Just blank off the hoes to the heater if you never want to use it and disconnect the electrical plug to the valve so the CCM won't be damaged in the future.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #75  
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I have hot air blowing out some vents cool air out others, i just replaced the DCCV and the problem is still there. H E L P.
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #76  
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See threads - there are many - about DCCV and CCM / RCCM. You probably burnt the CCM.
 
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Old May 23, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #77  
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Mine was switching cold to hot also. Today I went on a two hour drive and set the temp to LO and used the fan to adjust the air flow. It was fine the whole trip. I had the auto off and the recirc on. I had to turn it off once because it got to cold but only for a few min. It never went hot.
 
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Old May 23, 2013 | 10:25 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by JagV8
See threads - there are many - about DCCV and CCM / RCCM. You probably burnt the CCM.
How much is a new/ used rccm ? Are these able to be repaired ?
 
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Old May 24, 2013 | 12:32 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Sixx Dogg
How much is a new/ used rccm ? Are these able to be repaired ?
Yes,RCCM is reparable.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...highlight=rccm
 
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Old May 24, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #80  
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thank you so much! Great info...I had my dccv changed and AC compress...everything seems to be working awesome....but knowing that the RCCM can be repaired....is just great.
 
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