So my wife complained yesterday evening that in our current hot weather (it hit 94 here yesterday), her A/C isn't cooling as thoroughly or as quickly as it did last summer (which was our first summer with the S-Type). We went out to dinner in the car and I have to agree with her. It took awhile to get the cabin cool, and I don't think the A/C is putting out nearly as much cold air as last summer. Both sides were set to 68 degrees.

So this morning I've searched the forum using A/C, DCCV, Climate Control Module, and Evaporator Sensor as my search phrases. There's quite a bit of information here discussing all of these components. Most of the complaints involve a lack of heat, or a mixture of heat and cool, or some vents blow warm while other vents blow cool all at the same time. Our case seems to be a cooling system functioning at a reduced capacity.

So those of you who have dealt with similar situations with these quirky S-Types - where would you start? Prior to owning our S-Type, I would have immediately suspected low 134a refrigerant but that does not seem to be a common fault here. I'll certainly do a visual inspection of my DCCV to look for coolant seepage on it, but most DCCV complaints seem to center around a heating issue, not a cooling issue. Could it be the Evaporator Sensors? Reports say there are two of them, one for the driver and one for the passenger. Anyone know where they are located on a 2005 3.0? Still can't rule out low 134a, but I have no way of checking that myself.

Finally, I'd like to pose a question that no one else seems to have asked. Those who have been on this forum for awhile already know that the factory DCCV units are without a doubt a weak component in these S-Types up until and including the 2005 model. Did Jaguar ever recognize this and go to a different supplier or engineer a more robust DCCV? It would be a shame for those who have already had to replace their DCCVs to spend several hundred dollars on a new valve that is nothing more than the same old crappy component that is destined to fail again.

All input here is welcomed. I don't want to waste time or money just throwing costly parts at this. I need a more thorough understanding of what to chase down and in what particular order, and I know that some of you who've dealt with similar problems before can offer me some very valuable guidance here. Thanks for your interest and suggestions....

 

If you'd lots of DIY skills with multimeter, reading electrical diagrams and maybe a dealer-type OBD tool plus lots of spare time and enthusiasm, well......... start there LOL

I'd get it checked by an a/c place as it probably just wants regassing.

However, from somewhat bitter experience I'd first clean up every a/c joint and gadget (radiator especially) since I've had 2 very poor experiences with a/c guys claiming cars had leaks. I now have a UV ("black") light and can check myself. If you stay with your car you're in a better place to check what they get up to.

Oh - be VERY gentle with the radiator ("condenser") as it'll be delicate.

If you already have an a/c place you trust, just go

If you think you may have a leak, they can add UV dye when they refill and then since you cleaned things you can in due course find where it's leaking.

(I didn't fall for the bad guys but only because I was too poor to afford the "fixes" they claimed were needed. Eventually diagnosed and fixed it myself and there was NO leak at all just a quite cheaply DIY-fixed electrical fault. Pah.)

I've not seen figures for what the S-Types high & low pressure readings (curves on graphs against temperature) should be - anyone point me to them or got any?

 

I had a similar problem, the fan was blowing on high almost constantly and the air temp was not cold, I took it to a local AC place to check the gas they had some kind of problem as it was "European" but idn't charge anything for trying.
So then it was off down to the dealers who diagnosed that the condensor was toast, this was replaced (SE paid) and all was well.

 

Hi Jon,

It could be your condenser is leaking. I had mine replaced under warranty a couple of months ago when I discovered the a/c wasn't blowing cold. You might want to leak test your system which could show where your system is leakng.

Mike

 

It also could be the evaporator. I hope not. Lots of labor involved in changing one of those. I did a chevy one here at home and it took me over 6 hours with allot less thingys in the way than the Jag will have.The whole underside of the dash and console had to come apart and the heater core had to be removed to get at it.
Lets hope its not gone on yours Jon.

 

Thanks for all of the input and suggestions, guys. The cabin air will get cool but not cold as it did last summer. In 90-plus degree heat, I can't blame my wife for not wanting to drive the S-Type right now....

I wonder about last August's extensive repairs after I was plowed in the S-Type by the Geico driver in the Ford pick-up truck. I just checked my body shop repair records and that jogged my memory - the original condenser had to be replaced as part of the overall repair process. I'll call the body shop on Monday morning, explain the situation, and inform them that I expect them to run all necessary A/C tests at no additional cost to me. But this may have to wait a few days since the car is scheduled to go in for rear bumper repair on Monday afternoon. Damn those trailer hitches and inattentive wives....

 

Jon while I was under Joyces the other day, I noticed greenish oil film on the lower part of the AC pump. Although the AC is still blowing cold, I presume I have a small leak. I am investigating. I agree with jagv8, you may need a top off.

Discount autoparts stores carry an AC gauge that connects to the low preasure nipple that is visible from being on all fours and looking behind the drivers front tire (US). FYI high preasure nipple location (under hood, drivers side near the top strut).

 

Rick, thanks for the additional input. Keep me posted on how your A/C situation turns out. Two questions:

1. By A/C pump, I assume you mean the compressor?

2. So to check the high-pressure side of the A/C, the undertray has to come off and the car has to go up on the hydraulic lift?

If that's accurate, what clown of an engineer designed that configuration? Never heard of such a ridiculous set-up for A/C on any vehicle I'm familiar with....

 

If they repaired it in that accident it should not be low on gas. So, have it checked but if it IS low then there HAS to be a leak (I know, not Sherlock Holmes here).

It's normal R134a (not the phased-out R12) so any a/c place should be OK with it.

Rick - greenish oil film sounds VERY likely from a/c

 

yes Jon the compressor, I am to brain dead today (self induced) to think of the word compressor.

I stand corrected, if you get down on all 4's look into the rear of the drivers side wheel well and you will see the AC low preasure line with a black cap on it. No removal of anything.

jagv8 I knew that the green oil film was the compressor, but as I remember back a year ago there was a slight trace on it as well. Our AC still blows nice and chilly *****.

 

Is your main engine cooling fan (the one between the engine front and the radiator) working? In the situation described I think it should be on fast (aka high speed).

Don't poke or touch the fan blades - VERY dangerous.

Check this with a friend or somewhere isolated: don't leave your engine running with your head under the hood as anyone can drive the car away!

 

Jon.. this is a good place to start. I had the same issue years ago with another car. Had the condenser changed after a collision and had to go back to the body shop three times before they got it right and fixed the leaks including changing a defective condenser.(the first one they installed).

 

Rick,

I did an oil change this week also, and there was a similar green oil film on my compressor but so far it is working fine, I drove down to San Diego today the temp was showing 101deg at one point but the ac was fine.
Fingers crossed.

 

Rick,

I don't see that high-pressure A/C line or its black plastic cap when I'm down on all fours looking at the drivers side front wheel well. Is it behind the black plastic wheel well covers?

Granted, the car is outside and it's raining this morning, so I didn't spend a lot of time on my hands and knees out there....

 

The tape is actually taped to the low preasure black cap. Last photo is under hood high preasure line.

 

Bingo! Thanks Rick, now I've spotted it on our car. Still, what a stupid location for an A/C valve. Not only difficult to access, but way down near the road exposed to flying debris and such....

That low-pressure A/C valve is cake. Shoulda put the high-pressure A/C valve in an easy-to-reach under-the-hood location as well. But no, that's too logical....

Thanks again, Rick! The S-Type goes in for Jan's trailer hitch encounter late this afternoon. After that's finished and the car is back in our driveway later this week, I'm taking it to the body shop that performed last year's post-accident repairs in an effort to get to the bottom of this A/C issue....

 

Little off topic....

Rick, what is with all the dirt on your rocker panel!

Also, do you have Michelin tires on yours?

 

I knew that someone was going to call me out about the dirt!!! Truth be told after the oil change and seeing the tranny sleeve leak bare its ugliness again, I took the vehicle for a nice drive as it hasn't seen the road for over two weeks and I had happened into a rain storm. Plus the Eskie is clean, and theres ALOT of paint on that thing so I have been driving the Jag the past few days in the rain. I still have to climb back under the Jag to see if the drive time is buying me time.

Good eye Jeff, YES Michelin Pilots baby!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Everything you have said does not sound like a DCCV issue.
1) No Coolant Leak
2) NO HOT air coming from some of the vents.

From what I understand the DCCV can fail in one of two ways:
1) It leaks externally, with NO climate control issues
2) It leaks internally or shorts,and the solenoids stay open basically sending hot coolant to the heater cores even when its not needed, hence the hot / cold problems.

Honestly I would put a set of A/C Gauges on the car and check the charge. You may have a slow leak - that green film, especially around the lines is a telltale sign. Other issues for delayed cooling esp in 90+ degree temps are the electric fans not properly cooling the condenser. - This usually manifests itself as the car blowing warm air at idle, but cold air when up to speed.

George