i have looked and looked and cannot find the total capacity of brake fluid in a 2005 S-Type 3.0.

Does anyone know the amount that the total brake system holds?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas

2005 S-Type 3.0 63,500

 

I have not seen that specification listed since the good old cars of the '50"s, when the master cylinder fluid container was a huge thing.

I generally use about 500ml of brake fluid when doing a fluid change on any of my Jags. Mind you I do probably waste some, coz I make REAL SURE I got clean fluid from each bleed nipple.

Definately NOT the answer you seek, but its all I got.

 

+1

I've also never used more than 500ml to flush the system on a modern Jaguar.

Your question intrigued me so I've gone through JTIS looking to see if a capacity is quoted. The answer is 'NO' although just about everything else you could possibly ask is covered in the brake specification section:

JTIS S-Type 2004 - Brake System Specifications.pdf

Capacity doesn't get a mention in the brake bleeding section either.

Graham

 

I bought a can of motul brake fluid to flush mine and still had some left over.

 

1qt should certainly do it.

 

Interesting. 500ML is 16.9 ounces. I had been having too much of a soft pedal since I changed the brakes and so when I was near a jag dealer, I got a 500ml of their super dot 4 (and there is a specific differences in specs between dot 4 and super dot 4). Took out most of what was in the reservoir and that amounted to about 350 ml and filled with the new fluid. The brakes firmed up considerably and reinforces my need to have a brake flush done and I will get someone to do it that has the proper machine.

My curious nature was trying to figure out what % of the capacity of the system did I replace in order to initiate such a change in brake pedal feel?

In that line of thought, how much of the fluid circulates through the reservoir in a couple of days of driving or does all of this stay static. Thinking perhaps I might remove and refill some later?? Just trying to do something on the fly until I can get to the right place that has a machine. I have not done a bleed and really have no one to help and don't like learning curves for the first time that usually take a ton of more time and sometimes gets goofy. be that as it may- that amount of replacement did wonders for the too soft pedal feel.

Thanks

Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type 3.0, 63,500

 

Could you point me to the super DOT 4 spec please?

Glad to hear that you got your soft pedal issue solved, but be aware that it was nothing to do with the composition of the old fluid. No matter how badly contaminated with water or any other liquid, the fluid is still non-compressible up to the point where the boiling point of the mixture is reached. This doesn't happen in routine driving.

Simply changing the fluid in the reservoir will have no effect on what happens at the calipers where all the heat is.

 

Agree that there is no such thing as a spec for "super" DOT 4.

What may have happened is that the replacement pulled out moisture laden fluid, and the remaining smaller amount of moisture was dispersed evenly in the new blend.

A gravity bleed is a one person job ... so that is a possibility.

 

I would normally agree with you on both experience and logic, however I am just reporting what occurred and when doing this the temp was about 41 degrees outside and I never did enough braking to get near the high end of brake temp. The reservoir was full when I opened it and so it was not like it was low and lacking pressure. However there was no question as to the difference in the feel of the brake pedal and that I needed less brake pedal pressure to accomplish some of the same stops I do day in and day out. Any other explanation you can think of will be cool, but what I reported is what I did and the results were the results and I am just trying t put some logic to it.



http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdfhttp://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdfhttp://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdfhttp://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdfhttp://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_SuperDot_4.pdf




http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...uper_DOT_4.pdf


Tom in Dallas
2005 S-Type 3.0, 63,500

 

That may make some sense, but the difference in the pedal feel was less than about 30 seconds. It is not a debate that is all over the net i want to start- just trying to understand what happened which was a definite and clear change??


The real question of concern that I have is also posted last night here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...n-sound-89113/


Can anyone venture a guess on this?


Thanks again

Tom in Dallas

 

Only some of the fluid in the M/C reservoir was changed. The fluid inside the M/C cylinder was not. Given that the improvement was 'instant' and that the M/C never sees enough heat to boil even pure water, the reasons for the improved pedal feel remain unexplained.

It seems that the 'super' DOT 4 is not a spec, but an example of a fluid that tests higher in boiling points than the minimum DOT 4 spec, but not quite good enough to meet DOT 5.1. I would imagine that most DOT 4 fluids exceed the spec by a similar amount.

 

I just never like mysteries in mechanical objects, but such is life. I did notice on the specs a difference in viscosity, but the change was so quick, I know not!!

Thanks again.

Tom in Dallas

2005 S-Type 3.0

 

Differences in viscosity are not really relevant for the subject at hand.

Just for curiosity's sake, I started digging around for specs on other manufacturers' DOT 4 fluid. Here's Amsoil's offering which leaves the 'super' DOT 4 product in it's dust.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2476.pdf

and from ATE

ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid


Getting back to the mushy pedal, it's far more likely to be caused by a partially jammed or seized caliper pin on the front or wonky park brake mechanism on the rear. I've had both.

 

I just changed the brakes completely, replaced the rubber boot and re-lubricated the pins and they all worked fine and moved very easily. I also checked them before the tires went back on and that seems fine and the bedding process showed that everything was braking evenly.

No noise, no drag, stop better than before, except for the mushy pad at the time- no longer. Perhaps a coincidence, but??? Do you think I should take them off and look at the pins or leave what seems to be well enough alone?
The parking brake is fine and acts exactly the way it should.

Thanks

Tom

 

I would recheck the calipers if/when the mushy pedal comes back.