Yep, the morons who specified these cooling system parts be made out of plastic should be drawn and quartered....

Better yet, they should be required to come here and do this hose assembly replacement job for me under my supervision....

 

Eh,...... Jon, you got off too easy the first time... not even a nicked knuckle!
Both my upper rad hose replacements "took" on the first change..... but I had the "pleasure" of 3 DCCV changes on the same car in the span of a month or two.... woulda been within a week or two but the car was 300 miles from home at each leak.

 

Zane,

I'm sure I won't get away with unscathed hands this time. The replacement hose assembly should show up in Monday's mail delivery. So weather permitting, I'll do this job again first thing Tuesday morning....

I've been very fortunate with the DCCV. Still running the factory one with zero issues. I believe Rick is as well. Now that I've said that, I won't be surprised if the damn thing bites both of us....

 

You could try sealing it with black silicone and wait ...

If not I think I'd seal the replacement.

I prefer clamps I can tighten. That's what I did with my tranny coolant hose replacements. Not the engine oil cooler hose assemblies though - that was a bridge too far ...

 

The new hose assembly is not leaking at a clamp, adjustable or otherwise. It is leaking at a rubber seam. I'm not using sealant. I paid for an assembly that does not leak and that is exactly what I expect....

 

Perhaps a thread title change from darn to GD?

 

Ha ha...if so, Rick's gonna love you!!!

 

Yeah, Thanks Jon......

Yep we are still with the original DCCV, so far so good. Real drag that you have to go back in Jon, hopefully second time around is a charm!

 

The replacement hose assembly from Imparts is supposed to show up in this afternoon's mail delivery. If so, I plan on doing the job first thing tomorrow morning if the weather is clear....

I stopped by the local hardware store the other day and found an appropriately-sized rubber O-ring for the base of the coolant temperature sensor where it screws down into the hose assembly. Even though my original factory rubber O-ring didn't leak after I re-used it, there's no guarantee it will survive another removal/installation and I want to give myself the best chance of not having to go back in there yet again....

 

Update:

I installed the new hose assembly this morning in about 75 minutes total. That's counting the removal of the airbox / intake assembly, removing the leaking hose assembly, installing the new hose assembly, re-installing the airbox / intake assembly, and doing a 10-mile test drive. The worm-drive screw clamps instead of the squeeze-type spring clamps made all the difference in allowing me to do this job much faster the second time. No leaks or issues thus far. I'll leave the belly pan and engine dust cover off for the next week so I can more easily watch for potential leaks....

For those of you who face this job in the months or years ahead, the replacement rubber O-ring I purchased for the base of my coolant temperature sensor came from a True Value Hardware store. It is their #41 O-ring, part no. 1333558 / 35755B. The cost was 79 cents....

Thanks again to all who contributed in this thread. Sure hope I'm done with this repair. Time will tell....

 

Yeah so I blew this off at the weekend while giving it a 'bit' of welly! (I was joining a dual carriageway so naturally gave it a little, all of a sudden antifreeze and steam pouring out from under the hood. I knew it was coolant in an instant.
So I've rang jag who've quoted £24 plus the VAT. I thought that was pretty reasonable.
My question is; des it screw in, or is a bonded/chemical wielded bit? As I'm going to fit it myself.
Many thanks for any help!
Steve.

 

Steve, There are plenty of pictures on the first couple of pages of this thread.
It comes as part of the top hose assy.
£24 seems incredibly cheap, are you sure it's the correct part? You can find part numbers earlier in this thread also.