From experience make sure you have the correct Torx drive for the lower strut bolt ( IIRC T-60 ) Its tight and the correct Torx size is required especially if you are lazy like me and stick an impact gun on it. A friend tried to use an Allen drive and stripped out the bolt. Oxy and a recip saw were needed to get it out....not pretty. If you use the Loemforder arms, you may want to reuse the original ball joint nut with a bit of blue Loctite. I found the new supplied nuts were way too tight on the thread. I also indexed the nuts that hold the top of the strut. There is a bit of play and I wanted them back in the original position to keep the castor/camber alignment close to where I started. While I was in there I replaced the track rod ends at the same time, just cos. FYI- The track rod ends are also different on the post 2003 cars as well and not interchangeable, irrespective what the after market sellers claim.
Other than that, is a pretty easy job....well compared to changing the starter motor on my daughters 1.8T Audi A4......

 

Geezer, Thanks for the heads up. I will check when the snow gets down where it's not over my shoes. Even Jon would not force me to work in these conditions. LOL
I know I have a 50 for the seats, just not sure of the 60.
Again thanks.

Wayne

 

Wayne,

I just checked and my largest Torx bit is a T-50. If you do not have a T-60, let me know and I will get one and bring it with me....

sears.com sells a Craftsman T-60 bit that fits a 1/2-inch socket drive for about $12. I probably have enough Sears "Shop Your Way" club points to order one for free....

 

I got a 1/2" Torx set from Sears that included a T-60. They are impact rated and not expensive. I also found it easier to disconnect the bottom end of the drop link between the sway bar and the lower suspension arm. It made it easier to pull down the lower suspension arm. With the top and bottom of the strut disconnected the bolts come out. You don't need to completely remove the strut, just move it out of the way to clear the A arm bolt.
There was not a lot of disassembly needed to get to the nuts. They are 17mm. I removed the air cleaner box for easier access on the driver side.On the passenger side I had to loosen up a wire mounting bracket at the rear and remove a few mounting bolts to loosen up the vacuum reservoir and the electrical box at the front. ( I have a V8 ) Total time was around 3.5 hours with beer breaks for both sides including replacing the tie rod ends.
Remember to wait until the car is on the ground before you tighten the A arm bolts to preload the bushes. The bolt heads have a tag welded on that stops them turning so there is no need to get to the bolt head to do the final tightening. Have fun, and when you find the lower knuckle ball joint boot is split, say a few choice explicative and wait until its warmer to replace the joint.

 

Great tips, Geezer. Much obliged....

 

Since many of you have repaired s-type front suspensions, can anyone tell me what the torque spec is for the main bushing bolt for the front lower control arm is on my "05 s-type. I've tried 2 dealerships, and Jaguar national cus. service and can't get a torque number from anyone. Any info would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
RG

 

It may depend on the model but torque specs are generally in the workshop manual which is a free download.