Ok, so I've read the owners manual and searched the forums but I can't find out why my str keeps 'dinging' when I put the car in park and take out the key. The FOB doesn't function now either which is strange because it has a new battery and was just reprogrammed 3 weeks ago.

Man, it's driving me nuts....help me regain my sanity because I keep hearing that ding in my head even after Ive gotten out of the car......ding, ding, ding....

 

Probably shifter / micro-switch misaligned. Ignore FOB for now.

 

OK, first things first.... Not a rule, but close.. Edit your profile to include a signature that lists your car...Not just model (S Type) but also year and engine.. It really does make a difference...

Jag V8 is right... It is the switch.. If you try to turn off the car with it not in park an alarm goes off... On the newer one there is a common cause.. The bolt attaching the shifter cable to the transmissions comes loose. As it loosens the trans doesn't go into park properly (ding ding ding)... Address this now before it becomes the more common "my car is stuck in park" thread.

 

So it went to the dealer and they noticed that one of the bolts for the line is missing and it is being held in place with JB Weld. That means dropping the tranny so it will be level and they can retap a new screw. With a price of $1,100. I'm going to pick up the car tomorrow and take it to All Jag in Longwood, FL, to see what they have to say since that's a bit much for a screw. The warranty company won't cover it either since the factory screw isn't actually there.... Any other ideas?

 

Wait what? What bolt?

 

The two bolts that the transmission cable selector attaches to on the transmission. I thought this was one of the 'common' problems.....?

 

Oh yes. Sorry I couldn't believe that instead of fixing it the correct way, someone JB welded it. There are a few good euro car shops around Orlando what should be able to take care of you, without trying to price gouge you. Let me look through some things to see if I can dig up some contacts down there.

 

1100 to tap a screw hole out that has JB weld in it, is insane.

that an 8 mm bolt was JB welded is even more insane to me.

i think i just lost some of my brain cells trying to figure out the ever elusive question of "WHY"

 

Yea, I'm still dumbfounded about the jb weld. I wouldn't even think that would hold. The dealership is going to try and get a good picture of it and I hope they do because it's almost to dumb to believe. It's really frustrating to get a used car and have problems right away. Especially easily avoidable problems....

 

Those bolts are in a really tight area. No way of getting a drill or tap up there.

The dealer should have enough room to take a clear picture.

What a drag..... frickin' hacker mechanics.

 

Yea, that is really horrible... I hope you can find a better price.. I understand why the dealer is quoting you that much. Like Rick said, just getting in there to make sure the bolts are tight is a PIA. So it looks like the previous owner had the common issue and actually lost a bolt so then epoxied a replacement..Holy crap! Knowing where the bolts are, there would be no way to fix that without dropping the trans, hence the cost. Hopefully someone can get you to a GOOD private garage that can fix her up..

 

I had to look up what a "J.B. Weld" actually was, and it turns out it's not really a weld at all. I understand a 'weld' to be FUSING two parts made of the same substance, usually by heat. So a weld could be gas or electric welding of steel/iron parts, or heat-fusing plastic parts, sealing plastic bags etc. Brazing or soldering is different because another metal is used to 'stick' or 'glue' parts together, albeit at molten temperatures for the adhesive metal. The OED. defines weld as "homogenous fusing" of similar parts.
So...all a J.B. Weld actually is becomes a repair to a damaged metal part with what is really epoxy resin, although specially tailored to the particular repair.

I assume the big problem here is access to the job? I.e. if the item was out and in free air, there wouldn't be much of a problem? If it's a piece of car body in the way, and it's not a big load-bearing part and only a steel car floor, a fair-sized hole may be cut in the floor etc. to facilitate the job. A neat job can be done here and the hole either welded back together, or an inspection plate fitted after the job is done. Nowadays very neat holes can be drilled around 6" in diameter with a kind of circular cutter fitted to a large drill. I've seen them used to drill holes through brick walls to install balanced flue gas boilers. Is this possible, and would it be a big cost-saving? Ok, I may be way off-beam here, but I have in the past seen the rear hydraulic pipework (complicated hydraulic suspension) on a Citroen BX done this way by cutting the steel boot floor instead of dropping the entire rear subframe, thusly saving a HUGE amount of money.
Just my four pennyworth...
Leedsman.

 

Leedsman the bolts are located in the tunnel part of the frame work. "To cut a hole trough" would require removal of the driver seat and the carpet around the tunnel. Your idea is plausible but still requiring alot of work.

I have been racking my brain and the only temporary fix that still comes to mind, is back out the bolt that is still there and put some anti-vibe thread compound on it (kinda like loc-tite) but you don't have to heat it up to 1500 degrees to break the bolt free to fix the shade tree'er later.

Being an STR and I don't know the "spirited" driving habits of the OP, I can't say my idea would last to long.

There is a pic floating around here somewhere of these bolts. Joyces car won't be back until tomorrow (shes traveling this week) or else I would take a pic and post it up.

 

Heres an illustration:

Basically from the red line to the 2 bolt heads there is LESS than 1.5" to the tunnel. This illustration is the (drivers side US version) looking up.

 

Ouch... I'm trying to be nice here, but did you just suggest that he cut a hole in the floor of his car to save some $$???????????

 

I'm of the same mindset as Jason - what idiot would do that rather than obtain the proper 8mm replacement bolt? Oh yeah, now I remember who would - danielsatur. He must have worked on that car....

Whenever you're underneath your S-Type, take your 8mm box wrench with you and snug up those two pesky bolts. Takes all of 30 seconds to do so, and so very worth it in the long run....

 

I posted a pic.....think it is on Jon's "common maintenance items" thread.....maybe....

 

Yep Zane, it's there. If folks would just take the time to snug up these bolts a couple of times a year, this problem would disappear from the forum....

 

I thought the very same Jon!!!!

 

Er...well...I've done it.

Not to the STR of course. But rather to facilitate access to the fuel pump in the Rover. It is pretty much the accepted "DIY" method of replacing the part since you are just basically hacking a square hinge out of the load floor in the rear under the carpet. Pull pump straight out, replace, hammer metal back into shape, weld or seal it back up, done.

I think he's probably more concerned with saving some greenbacks. There has got to be a creative solution to this that doesn't involve $3.00 worth of epoxy or $1,100 worth of tranny droppin'......